Titebond Glue formula

sharkster

sharkster

ADD Oh look a chicken
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I have read several posts on using titebond glues for veneer stacks. I have not read much about titebond 3. Lots of mention of 1 and 2 but not 3, am i missing something? I thought that 3 was their strongest formula (WOOD Magazine). I have used it for a couple of years in other wood projects and love it. I'm getting ready to do my first veneered cues and want to make sure I'm using the right glue in the stack. Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Titebond III is the best of the Titebonds -- stronger, longer open time, usable at a lower temperature, and waterproof. Its two possible drawbacks in regular woodworking are higher cost and darker color.

As far as its use in cue building, I, too, am eager to hear from the cue makers.
 
AtLarge said:
Titebond III is the best of the Titebonds -- stronger, longer open time, usable at a lower temperature, and waterproof. Its two possible drawbacks in regular woodworking are higher cost and darker color.

As far as its use in cue building, I, too, am eager to hear from the cue makers.
Click to expand...

Unless you're going to use your cue out in the rain, there really isn't a reason to use the more expensive "3" over the other formulas IMO.
Mr H
 
zx24 said:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/zx48/dzcuepoints.jpg

Here is a pic from some point work from DZ. I found it in the cue review section.There are 4 veneers. Between each veneer there is a layer of black. Is it dyed epoxy, or thin black veneers veneers?
How do you keep from seeing the glue lines when using titebond?
Click to expand...

I believe those are paper veneers. I'd be really surprised if Bob could get the epoxy to be that consistent thickness between each veneer, for its entire length.

Scott
 
zx24 said:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae40/zx48/dzcuepoints.jpg

Here is a pic from some point work from DZ. I found it in the cue review section.There are 4 veneers. Between each veneer there is a layer of black. Is it dyed epoxy, or thin black veneers veneers?
How do you keep from seeing the glue lines when using titebond?
Click to expand...

I don't use Titebond for veneer glue up as I like epoxy better for a couple of reasons, however, one of the benefits of using Titebond is that there is little if any glue lines if properly pressed.

By the way, Bob's point and veneer work is exemplary as is most all of his work. He is one of the most under rated cue builders in the country.

Dick
 
ScottR said:
I believe those are paper veneers. I'd be really surprised if Bob could get the epoxy to be that consistent thickness between each veneer, for its entire length.

Scott
Click to expand...

Scott is right, definitely paper veneers.

Kelly
 
rhncue said:
I don't use Titebond for veneer glue up as I like epoxy better for a couple of reasons, however, one of the benefits of using Titebond is that there is little if any glue lines if properly pressed.

By the way, Bob's point and veneer work is exemplary as is most all of his work. He is one of the most under rated cue builders in the country.

Dick
Click to expand...

Now if only his bedside manner would improve...such a cantankerous fellow. :eek::D:eek:

Just kidding...Bob is an exemplary gentleman as well.

Kelly
 
Paper veneers

Can someone steer me to a web site that sells paper veneers.
Tks
 
Titebond

sharkster said:
I have read several posts on using titebond glues for veneer stacks. I have not read much about titebond 3. Lots of mention of 1 and 2 but not 3, am i missing something? I thought that 3 was their strongest formula (WOOD Magazine). I have used it for a couple of years in other wood projects and love it. I'm getting ready to do my first veneered cues and want to make sure I'm using the right glue in the stack. Thanks for your thoughts![/QUOTE

Try TITEBOND LAMINATE GLUE. Made for the job and works great-no bleeding-
no glue lines and reasonable working time. Like all wood-to-wood joints evenly
applied clamping pressure insures a strong joint. Bob
Click to expand...
 
[/QUOTE]Try TITEBOND LAMINATE GLUE. Made for the job and works great-no bleeding-
no glue lines and reasonable working time. Like all wood-to-wood joints evenly
applied clamping pressure insures a strong joint. Bob[/QUOTE]

Thanks Bob!

Alan
 
Titebond

Thanks for the responses. I have not had an issue with glue lines using 3, but I get the impression some have? Thanks again for the help, I am headed for the laminate glue for a few cues. I plan on updating with a few pics if I remember!
 
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