To break cue or to house cue....that is the question

caff3in3

caff3in3

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey all,

I have a decent playing cue and I own a dedicated jump cue, the only thing missing is a break cue. I really dont want to buy a jump/break as the extra joint will be useless to me. I am not in a position to spend $300-500 on a predator or mezz break cue.

My question is - are there any decent break cues for $60-150 or would I be better off just getting a cheap cue and putting a really hard tip on it.

Thanks,

Chris
 
I had an older Palmer, stiff taper with a break tip added... never should have sold it. Lighter works better for me as well. I'll probably get laughed at (I'm old so I don't care :-)) ... but Triangle tips break well for me.
 
Owned several break sticks and had a J&J Panther for several years. I sold it in favor of a another brand.
I should have never done that. I now believe that Panther to the best break stick I've ever owned.
I keep pestering the fellow that has it now. He agrees...it's the best break stick he's ever had and adamantly refuses to sell it back to me.

My loss. :frown:
 
thanks for the info guys. My jump cue is actually a J&J and works great (can jump from about 2 balls distance away from the blocking ball - full ball).
 
J&J jump cues

ctyhntr said:
Your question comes up all the time in the forum. J&J Jump Break is usually recommended.

http://www.jjcue.com/jjcue-jumpbkcue.htm
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I ordered one in for a friend, it cracked at the joint , both the but and the shaft, It was a sneaky pete.

I had a orange crush break cue I liked pretty good

Some of these break cues the butts seem to fat for me,

At the last third of my break stroke I release the butt of the cue and let it float in my hand.

Finding the right break cue can be just as tough if not harder to find the right playing cue.
 
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I purchased a used McD. Stinger break/jump cue on the Forum for less than a $100.......my buddies love it.......personally, I think break cues
are over-rated and I can use a house cue to break with.......as for jumping the cue ball..........Hah.......I couldn't jump a cue ball if it was made
using Disney's "Flubber"......so for me, a house cue works just fine and seldom even take my break cue out the 6x12 cue case I use.

Matt B.
 
caff3in3 said:
Hey all,

I have a decent playing cue and I own a dedicated jump cue, the only thing missing is a break cue. I really dont want to buy a jump/break as the extra joint will be useless to me. I am not in a position to spend $300-500 on a predator or mezz break cue.

My question is - are there any decent break cues for $60-150 or would I be better off just getting a cheap cue and putting a really hard tip on it.

Thanks,

Chris
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Playing cue.
 
You can just put a nice break tip (Samsara, White Diamond, etc.) or even just a hard leather tip on any cue with a stiff-ish shaft and it'll work great. Also I use a Jacoby Edge and really like it and you can probably get a used one of those for 150-ish.
 
Baron said:
You can just put a nice break tip (Samsara, White Diamond, etc.) or even just a hard leather tip on any cue with a stiff-ish shaft and it'll work great. Also I use a Jacoby Edge and really like it and you can probably get a used one of those for 150-ish.
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+1

Break cues are overrated, don't believe the hype. Bust out the break speed app and see what a $500 break cue gets you, almost exactly what a $75 J&J gets. I have super cheap cue that's really stiff, it breaks on average .5mph faster than the BK3. :confused:
 
caff3in3 said:
Hey all,

I have a decent playing cue and I own a dedicated jump cue, the only thing missing is a break cue. I really dont want to buy a jump/break as the extra joint will be useless to me. I am not in a position to spend $300-500 on a predator or mezz break cue.

My question is - are there any decent break cues for $60-150 or would I be better off just getting a cheap cue and putting a really hard tip on it.

Thanks,

Chris
Click to expand...

There are definitely good break cue options in the price range you mentioned, or even lower. Discover what weight and balance feels good for you, then target something that matches that. A used J&J that other posters mentioned will definitely do the trick. No reason you can't get out for $60 if you're willing to buy used. Buying the newer dedicated breakers for $200+ aren't necessary considering the price. The added dollars don't equate that much to better performance.

Most credible research in general says lighter is a bit better than heavier, harder tip better than softer. But whatever gives you the best balance of speed and cueball control is your ultimate ticket.

If you find a jump/break cue that you break well with, it might also have the added benefit for some longer jump shots that like a little more weight than the dedicated jumpers....for cueball control purposes.
 
DJ14.1 said:
If you find a jump/break cue that you break well with, it might also have the added benefit for some longer jump shots that like a little more weight than the dedicated jumpers....for cueball control purposes.
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This is true...I really prefer using my Gilbert jump/break for long jump shots, I find I'm more accurate with it, but it can't get over the really close balls nearly as easy as my Jacoby jump cue. It's weird, never planned to jump with two different cues, but since they're both in my case I find myself choosing based on the shot....if the interfering ball is more than 15" away and the OB is more than a few feet away, it's the Gilbert. Anything closer and I grab my Jacoby.
 
slide13 said:
This is true...I really prefer using my Gilbert jump/break for long jump shots, I find I'm more accurate with it, but it can't get over the really close balls nearly as easy as my Jacoby jump cue. It's weird, never planned to jump with two different cues, but since they're both in my case I find myself choosing based on the shot....if the interfering ball is more than 15" away and the OB is more than a few feet away, it's the Gilbert. Anything closer and I grab my Jacoby.
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Yeah, that's exactly the road I traveled too, also by accident.
 
It can work either way Buddy.

I have tried a few different break cues out. I was lucky and got a new Joss Hammer from a player that needed money for slot machines worse than he needed a cue.

I lent him money and always was paid back so that wasn't a problem, so when he offered up his cue, I jumped on it. Of course, I'm not a p rick and the cue, as he can have it back when ever for the same as it cost me.

But, I have also went the other way for a test. I bought ten Eliminator Sneakies from EBay, sold a few and got 2 free ones.

On one, I put on a harder ferrule material and a leather break tip. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. The Eliminators have gone up in price a bit. But 25 bucks, plus a ferrule and tip. Can't beat that. The best part. If you ever buy another, you can always put a regular tip on it and use it for a bar cue.

I know a guy that bought a similar sneaky to the Eliminator. 25 oz. Man, does that thing ever break a rack. I put a break tip on for him and tested it.

25 is a tad heavy for my liking, but he likes it and that's the main thing.
 
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