To Thread or Not to Thread

[jazznpool]

Arnot sez:

In my opinion the threaded ferrules make an unacceptably small diameter tenon. Those tenons are weak and off center like you said.


Where I help out, we thread the tenon at .290. The epoxy fills the thread voids and becomes part of the ferrule/tenon system. Can't see how that is weak at all unless the epoxy is not mixed properly. I'm not knocking the slip tenon BTW. I do know from a player standpoint the the threaded tenons play real fine. The threaded ferrule method has been used by many respected and top level cuemakers for many moons. Not out of the need for speed either!

Martin

 

[Cuedog]

I don't have to do many but I do repair 5 or so a year. I do enough that I keep tenons made up to use. How many ferruls have you had to replace that were epoxied on without threads and came loose?

Dick

With all do respect Dick, and I mean that sincerely, ferrules without threads make up the majority of the ferrule jobs that I do by far. I guess your key word is "epoxied". Honestly, I don't have a percentage I can give you on that. This thread will increase my awareness now but I suspect that the higher percentage of ones that are rising up are ones done with something other than epoxy? Is that what you're saying?

I just find that even if one uses a less strong adhesive such as Elmer's glue, and cuts at least decent threads, the problem with ferrules rising up and leaving a gap, is virtually nonexistent.

Gene

 

[Sheldon]

I've repaired WAY more slip-on ferrules than threaded. Poor installation, bad glue and fiber ferrules were the major causes though. Both methods are fine if done properly, and strengths/weaknesses can be debated endlessly. One thing is for absolute certain though, threaded ferrules allow you to finish the job in 5-10 minutes. This can be very handy if you only want to deal with a customer once. They show up, you put the ferrule on, you send them away. If I don't thread a ferrule, I like to let it set up for a while, and wouldn't want someone to have to wait that long.

 

[Cue Crazy]

I've fixed many more slip tenons then threaded for sure, but to be to fair It probably has atleast alittle to do with the fact that there are generally more of them out there to begin with. Still I don't see faults more one way then the other anyhow, other then the way they are machined. Slip tenons are easier to work on though, but as mentioned the built in clamp of the threaded design is nice also. As far as being off center, well I have seen both threaded and slip tenons that were off. Indicate, bore, and square everything off well, and there should be no problems with either type tenon in My opinion Gotta get that clause in there so I'm politically correct. I really don't prefer one method over the other. but am happy that I can do what I feel is satisfactory job regardless of what type I'm working on.

On the dia- I have tried the aluminum version, and did'nt have much luck, possible I was'nt using It correctly, but when Sheldon turned Me on to the steel one in a previous thread sometime back, It made all the difference in the world, and worked alot better for me. That sizing hole on the bottom for the tenons- I also use as guide much like one might with a tap. I have a steel dowel about the same diameter that I mount in My tailstock, then run It up in that hole in the dia.

All I know Is I don't have any real problems with them being off centered, unless It's an old shaft, and I'm stuck working with what room It gives me. I thread the ferrule, face, and all at the same time, then I prep the tenon, thread it & all that goes with that, but most of the time when I screw that ferrule on, It runs almost dead nuts with the shaft before I even do a trim pass.

I don't argue one being better then the other, just that there's a right and wrong way to do either one. I actually do more slip tenons, just prefer to thread Mine some of the time.

Greg

 

[n10spool]

I have three cues I play with all the time different cue makers and never broke a ferrule in 3+ years all ivory.

1. Bobby Hunter threaded ivory

2. Dominiak 11\4 slip on capped ivory

3. Hubler large tennon Ivory uncapped with a pad

I have never broke a ferrule on these, the only ferrule's i have broke were on my Bill Mcdaniels cues 1 was ivory I was a ball banger then and the other was Ivorine 3 I believe sneaky pete built by Bill since then I learned alot about the game and how to treat my equipment better.

Most ferrule's I replace are from shrinkage and not breakage, mostly cheap ferrule's most shrink before they break apart when there cheap material.
Just look at house cues there always popping tips I cut the old ferulle's off put a good ferrule agies or ivorine the tips dont pop off.

Another thing most people over heat there ferrule when they change tips and that can weaken a ferrule bond with the shaft.

So which is better a capped ferulle like from atlas with .200 think cap or lets say like a schonn with a 3\8 to 1\2" thick cap. Maybe a .750 tennon length or 1\2" tennon length. I feel it depends on what type of hit the customer wants to feel or use the cue for breaking, one pocket cue only,
or just a general bar box cue.

I was taught threaded is best and nonthreaded was easier to repair.

The only real question i have are 3 cusion ferulles are they threaded being there only 1\2 thick and some are thinner still. I never have worked on one yet and what size tennon would be best on this style of cue.

I may have said to much I type faster then I think I'm trying not to rattle cages just putting up 2cents here and there.


Craig

 

[bubsbug]

thread vs no thread

I went to a friends shop today who has the unique's compression die. This product is way superior to the Atlas compression die for threading tennons. Tooling make all the difference in the world. I have discovered that I do like the threaded ferrules over the slip on, but Im to new at this for my opinion to be worth anything.