I use nothing but Moori III Medium on my cues and I change them with no
special tools, glues, or processes and haven't had any problems with glue
soaking in, not sticking well, or having a hollow feeling on the hit like there
are voids in the glue. And I sure don't like paying someone 40.00 for
something I can do myself. Yes I said 40.00.
First off I'm not telling anyone they are doing it wrong or that this is a
better way its just just what I do and it works for me. It surely
isn't for someone who has to get a bunch of shafts shipped before 3:00.
I use Loctite "Precision Max" Super Glue in the triangular bottle or a small
tube of Loctite Gel that I pick up at K-Mart or Home Depot. I don't prefer
the gel because the liquid flows between the tip and ferrule better I press
the tips in a 10" "C" Clamp because it has smooth mating surfaces
not like my vise which has teeth on the face of the jaws. 1/4 turn
after contact with the tip, 5 minutes later another 1/4 turn for 5 minutes.
1. I cut the old tip off as close to the ferrule as I dare with a razor knife.
Then I use a plastic silverware knife to scrape the rest of the tip off.
Its softer than the ferrule so it doesn't damage it using a little pressure.
2. I lay the shaft down on my desk with the ferrule sticking out over the edge
Using a piece of computer memory I wrap it with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
I use this to sand the leftover, glue, or tip off the face of the ferrule.
The backside is smooth and its flexible enough so if you are not square
with the end you don't saw off one edge at an angle. If you go slow
and push it across the face and not sand back and forth you will be fine.
3. I take 100 or not more than 220 grit dry sandpaper and push the
tip, glue marked side down, back and forth until the ink is not visible.
Then I make two or three circles with it wipe it smooth with my thumb
4. Placing it on my desk glue side up, I take my old cotton t-shirt put a
little alcohol on it, and wipe the tip and the mating surface of the ferrule.
5. I put the super glue on the tip and put enough on to where you see
it sitting on the tip not where it just discolors the leather.
6. Holding the shaft vertical with both hands., ferrule side down,
I center up the shaft on the tip. Pressing it down real firm
in one smooth motion and leaning on it, keeping a lot of
weight pressing the shaft on the tip for 45-60 seconds.
I don't worry about the glue that squeezes out as I wipe it
towards the tip after I pick it up with a paper towel.
7. I usually lay it off to the side for about 10-15 minutes just to make
sure the glue has setup enough but don't always depending on how
big a hurry the wife is in to have me put my toys away.
8. I take a very large magnifying glass and check the joint all the way
around for a gap, thin space, or void between the tip and the ferrule.
9. I then change the blade in the razor knife. I do this each time I use
it on the tip. Blades are cheap. Holding the shaft vertically with the
tip down firmly against the desk, when I say firmly, I mean lean on i
pretty good. I then take the razor knife and trim the excess away from
the ferrule as close as possible without actually touching it. I cut
small "chunks" off as I rotate it. I do not saw around it in a circular motion.
Thats a sure fire way to cut a piece off your ferrule.
10.Once I get it trimmed back and looking like an "octagon" I take some
220 grit dry paper and knock the high spots off until I can just hook my
fingernail on the edge of the tip. Then I take 600 grit wet/dry and sand
it down until it just starts to touch the excess glue that squished out.
Next I take 1000 grit wet/dry and take it down flush and the glue is sanded
gently off the ferrule in a gentle circular motion it will and will half ass burnish it as well.
Take piece of old levi's, lick your fingers, and wet the sides, wrap the
piece of levi's around the tip and spin it back and forth until it stops squeaking.
When that happens the sides are polished and firm and once again
a perfect tip is completed.
It usually takes 20-30 minutes to do each one, not counting pressing it.
I have done maybe 8-10 like this and not one of them has popped off,
and no voids or bubbles between the ferrule and tip. they usually only
mushroom about a millimeter during the first game, I just sand
it down with some 1000 grit and use the Ultimate Tip Tool on it, and
I only have to hit it with a curved shaper from time to time to keep my dime shape.
The only thing I can figure is wiping the tip with the alcohol seals the
porous leather somehow and that keeps the glue from soaking in.
I have showed people at the pool hall how it turned out and
told them how I did it and had one guy call me a liar and a BS artist
because I couldn't get it that smooth and flush without a lathe.
Tomorrow I cut the Triangle tip off my wifes new cue and put a Moori
medium on it. This time I'm taking pictures.
So far I havent had a problem with doing it this way.
except the very first one I did and that was only because I didn't get
the shaft centered on the tip and it was hanging over one side and
had to cut it off and start over.
The attachment is my Mcdermott I2 and my Schuler.
Damn that was long winded! I can change the tips faster than it takes to read this long drawn out thing.
