Tulipwood Anyone?

ridewiththewind

ridewiththewind

♥ Hippie Hustler ♥
Silver Member
I realize that this may be a shot in the dark, but I was curious if anyone has a nice darker piece of tulipwood 24"-28" in length, that is dry enough to craft into the handle of a full splice blank, that they might be willing to part with? I have been looking online, but many of the suppliers require a minimum purchase, or their wood is still wet.

I know many of you hoard your wood, and rightfully so...just thought I would throw this feeler out there, hoping to get lucky. :smile:

I have to work today, but will check back in later this evening and get back to anyone who may choose to respond. Thanks in advance to any who may choose to do so!

Lisa
 
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dave sutton said:
did you call bellforest
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I did not call them, but they do not appear to have what I need in something that is drier...their longer pieces do not appear to be kiln-dried.

Lisa
 
Varney Cues said:
It was in my sent folder. I forwarded it to you again...let me know if you still don't get it.
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Thank you, I did get it!

I was hoping to find a suitable piece, as I was thinking of having a FS veneered blank made up by Jeff Prather. If I cannot get a piece of tulip, then I will be going with a crazy figured Brazilian Bocote...but the tulip would be my first choice.

Thanks again!
Lisa
 
BTW...thank you to those who have PM'd me so far...it is most certainly appreciated!! I am really hoping to find what I need. :smile:

Lisa
 
maybe you could have a piece cored 24 inches long or so. let it sit a month or so hollow in the house then plug.

i dont core yet so i dont know if it would be useable that fast or if you can core that long. i do mainly traditional maple forearm cues

cuemakers how long do you let cored wood sit before using it?
something to think about
 
dave sutton said:
cuemakers how long do you let cored wood sit before using it?
something to think about
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Guycrunch was over yesterday and saw a tulipwood pointed cue I'm working on. He mentioned this thread. I told him I saw it. The piece I started with was long enough and very dark, but I cut it up a few days before this thread was started. That was the only long dark piece I had.

As for cores, I let mine sit with a .625" hole until I get around to gluing a dowel in them. I have some that have been sitting for more than a year and some that have been sitting for a few months. When I'm ready to glue the core in, I redrill them with a larger diameter drill.

Once it's glued up, it is usually a few months before it gets points. Some woods you can go faster with than others though.

I've only had one piece of cored wood move and that was Olivewood. I'm sure I went too fast with it. I have some that was turned round over a year ago and low looks like a banana. I still don't think I've completed a cue with an Olivewood Forearm. Maybe in a couple more years, some of what I Have will make it into a cue.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
Guycrunch was over yesterday and saw a tulipwood pointed cue I'm working on. He mentioned this thread. I told him I saw it. The piece I started with was long enough and very dark, but I cut it up a few days before this thread was started. That was the only long dark piece I had.

As for cores, I let mine sit with a .625" hole until I get around to gluing a dowel in them. I have some that have been sitting for more than a year and some that have been sitting for a few months. When I'm ready to glue the core in, I redrill them with a larger diameter drill.

Once it's glued up, it is usually a few months before it gets points. Some woods you can go faster with than others though.

I've only had one piece of cored wood move and that was Olivewood. I'm sure I went too fast with it. I have some that was turned round over a year ago and low looks like a banana. I still don't think I've completed a cue with an Olivewood Forearm. Maybe in a couple more years, some of what I Have will make it into a cue.
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I've made one, cored with Maple, Olive Wood cue. A few months later the prong got a split about 5 or 6 inches long and I've had no desire to use the wood since. Although a unique wood, there are many other much more stable unique woods that can make a great looking and playing cue. I no longer want nor need the aggravation of proving to myself that I can outsmart that piece of wood and make a desirable cue. Lots of luck in your percevierence.

Dick
 
Thanks to all! Once upon a time, I had a tulipwood forearmed cue move at the joint on me...didn't realize this was a more typical behavior as opposed to atypical.

I have decided to move onto something else entirely....perhaps it was a good thing I didn't get what I was initially looking for...likely saved myself and a cue maker a lot of headaches...LoL.

Thanks again for all the input....it was most certainly appreciated!!

Lisa
 
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I've found Tulip and Olive to be similar in needing extra time to be stable for cue building.
A Tulip square you buy from the wood suppliers will not be usable in a cue for at least a year. Boring these woods will speed up the process and glueing the core in before it's dried properly will do the things mentioned in this thread.
 
Lisa,

If your still interested I have a Tulipwood plank that has been around for over 5 years that I could cut what you need from.

Bob bdcues
 
bdcues said:
Lisa,

If your still interested I have a Tulipwood plank that has been around for over 5 years that I could cut what you need from.

Bob bdcues
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Thanks for the offer, Bob. I have actually decided to just not do a tulip full splice. Without coring, I am not sure it would have been the best decision.

I have actually found a suitable blank, in a different wood, and think that will make me just as happy...perhaps moreso. :smile:

Lisa
 
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