Tulipwood stability

Greatblzofire

Greatblzofire

Neil Olsen Custom Cues
Silver Member
Hey guys,

I want some advice on tulipwood. I have a cue that I am getting started for a customer that will have a tulipwood forearm. My general philosophy on coring is that I only core wood to reduce weight or if I am working with wood that is less stable.

So, I need some advice on this tulipwood cue. Is tulipwood stable enough to be used as an uncored forearm? What have you guys experienced?
 
I personally would core it as in my experience tulipwod will move and turning slow plus long rest periods are needed.

It is beautiful when finished but even when cored it will try and move if care isn't taken in turning.:)
 
Greatblzofire said:
Hey guys,

I want some advice on tulipwood. I have a cue that I am getting started for a customer that will have a tulipwood forearm. My general philosophy on coring is that I only core wood to reduce weight or if I am working with wood that is less stable.

So, I need some advice on this tulipwood cue. Is tulipwood stable enough to be used as an uncored forearm? What have you guys experienced?
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I think the key to most woods' stability is for it to be properly dried and seasoned. I have built many cues with Tulipwood forearms and had no problems.

Good Cuemaking,
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
I think the key to most woods' stability is for it to be properly dried and seasoned. I have built many cues with Tulipwood forearms and had no problems.

Good Cuemaking,
Click to expand...

Indeed, if the wood is properly seasoned movement is less likely, if care in turning is taken. If you core well seasoned wood then you can adjust weight etc and movement would be far less likely.
 
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Do yourself a favor & take the time to research & learn what wood actually is, what internal stress is, what causes it, etc. It'll demystify a lot of things about wood & you'll be more confident in how to work with it.
 
The only way I have successfully used un-cored tulipwood is to make sure it is kiln dried and then soak it in nelsonite between every turn once it is round.
 
Tulipwood seems like it will never stop shrinking. I know 15 years isn't enough. The front must be cored unless you like to gamble against long odds. That said, it does look great.
 
I love the look of Tulipwood, especially straight grained pieces. Coring aside, it is my experience that those pieces crack easily along the grain, so proceed carefully.
 
Core it, down the road you'll be glad you did, It will move a couple more times after coring, then you'll be fine. Do your coring dowels in steps also.
 
thanks for all of the replies. I had an extra shorter piece that I was using for rings that I know has been turned round for at least 5 years. When I put it on the lathe and saw how much it had moved, it caused me to pause and consider my options. You confirmed what I thought. I need to core this forearm.

BTW, Eric I heeded you advice and did some research on wood stress and
moisture content online. Now my wife thinks I have totally lost it, spending hours reading about wood. What I did not find was a good resource for species specific wood properties. Any advice on any books to get?
 
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