Tung oil---help!

Rip

Rip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an old sneaky with a wrap, black phenolic butt plate and curly maple butt, no inlays. After spending a few years in my locker at the pool hall, the wood, especially the curly maple butt is now very dirty and dull looking. Someone suggested I use Borax to clean the wood and then use Tung oil to brighten and bring out the beauty of the curly wood. I do not have a lathe.

I used the Borax and it removed alot of the grime and the wood does look a little brighter. If I tape off the phenolic butt plate and wrap with blue painters tape, how do you suggest I apply the Tung oil and what should I do once I've applied it? Or am I already screwing up with the painters tape????
I live in the desert in Nevada so the humidity is very low and "stuff" tends to dry very fast if that matters.

I have no clue what I'm doing so be gentle with me :eek: .
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Rip
 
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Rip said:
I have an old sneaky with a wrap, black phenolic butt plate and curly maple butt, no inlays. After spending a few years in my locker at the pool hall, the wood, especially the curly maple butt is now very dirty and dull looking. Someone suggested I use Borax to clean the wood and then use Tung oil to brighten and bring out the beauty of the curly wood. I do not have a lathe.

I used the Borax and it removed alot of the grime and the wood does look a little brighter. If I tape off the phenolic butt plate and wrap with blue painters tape, how do you suggest I apply the Tung oil and what should I do once I've applied it? Or am I already screwing up with the painters tape????
I live in the desert in Nevada so the humidity is very low and "stuff" tends to dry very fast if that matters.

I have no clue what I'm doing so be gentle with me :eek: .
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Rip
Click to expand...


If the cue is unfinished or the cues finish is worn away, after cleaning I wood lightly sand with the grain using some 600 grit and then some 1000 grit. I would then take a clean rag that is slightly damp and wipe down the exposed wood.

Immediately after this, I would apply Watco Danish Oil finish, Neutral, I would not use tong oil. If the wood is dry the moisture from the clean rag will open up the pours of the wood, and it will suck up the oil finish. Then buff with a soft clean cloth until it has a warm glow.

Oil finishes can get dirty with time, however, by applying additional oil finish the surface dirt will wipe away and the finish will be restored.

You can buy Watco Danish Oil fiinish at Lowes or Home Depot
 
Thanks Craig,
How do you suggest I apply the Watco Danish Oil finish? Rag, sponge brush, ?? OOOPS, I re-read your post and you mention a rag.
After I apply a coat, do I need to sand and apply another coat?
I just hit it with 2400, then 3600, then 6000, then 8000 and finally 12,000 grit micro mesh by hand. It looks great with a nice shine and I haven't used any oil yet! The downside is my hands and arms are like noodles from doing the micro mesh hand job. I can barely hold my Mojito!

Any other suggestions?
Rip
 
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Oil Finish

Hi: I would suggest using gun stock oil. Purchase at any sporting supply (Birchwood-Casey brand) store. Apply with a cotton ball and let dry for several hours and keep applying for about 6 coats. Do nor sand between coats. Polish out with any good cue polish.

Good luck.

Bob Flynn
Denali Pool Cues
 
Rip said:
Thanks Craig,
How do you suggest I apply the Watco Danish Oil finish? Rag, sponge brush, ?? OOOPS, I re-read your post and you mention a rag.
After I apply a coat, do I need to sand and apply another coat?
I just hit it with 2400, then 3600, then 6000, then 8000 and finally 12,000 grit micro mesh by hand. It looks great with a nice shine and I haven't used any oil yet! The downside is my hands and arms are like noodles from doing the micro mesh hand job. I can barely hold my Mojito!

Any other suggestions?
Rip
Click to expand...

Bulk up!... or give up cue work, or use a buffer, or....
 
JimS,
I'm going to consider the options you've presented. OK, I've considered them and now I need to take a nap.
LOL!!
Rip
 
I'm not a cuemaker but have used tung oil,both semi gloss and high gloss, on 5 or 6 pieces of furniture. Teak, maple, oak and several others and it gives a beautiful, durable finish. I did a teak tea cart that I got from the Queen Mary after it docked in Long Beach in 1969 and it is still lustrous and shows no wear. Has anyone ever used tung oil on a cue?
 
Any other cuemakers with an opinion or suggestions as to which is preferred, Tung oil or Gun Stock oil?
Thanks,
Rip
 
I am interested in this as well as I have just recently purchased a true sneaky pete hustler, its an old custom job made by some guy out of Milwaukee, or so I'm told. It is made out of bubinga and of course maple, and it appears that it had a finish at one point, but most all of it has been rubbed off. I am having the cue stripped, cleaned, and sanded, and am planning on putting some form of oil finish on it. I had been considering tung oil, but I too would like to hear more about this Watco Danish Oil finish. I want something that is low gloss, and very neutral, I don't want to change the color of the wood. I am actually considering just sealing it as you do a shaft (as I am not worried about it getting dirty, thats the point), would that be a bad idea?
 
Rip said:
Any other cuemakers with an opinion or suggestions as to which is preferred, Tung oil or Gun Stock oil?
Thanks,
Rip
Click to expand...

After using Tru-oil (Gun Stock oil) on guitar necks I started using it for cues and love it!!!

Paul
 
Ok, I decided to apply Birchwood-Casey gun stock oil. I applied with a clean white cotton cloth and it gave the cue a nice low gloss while bringing out the color and beauty of the wood. I really appreciate the suggestions from the experienced members of this forum. Kudos to you.
Rip
 
pics!

Hey, post some pics of the final project! I'm actually looking to do the same with a nice butterfly sneaky. I'll post pics if I don't ruin the cue. :o
 
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