Turn down and more taper

erbilliards

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a couple shafts that are a little more conical than I like, they have very slight taper. I also (separate issue) have a kielwood shaft for my playing cue that is just too thick. Trying to decide if they’re worth altering, I don’t know if it’s something that doesn’t get done or more common than I’m aware of, being turning down a shaft and adding taper. Thanks in advance to those that share knowledge I don’t have
 
Retapering and resizing a shaft is generally not too difficult. LD, carbon-filled, and hollow shafts limit the amount of reduction/turn down that can be done because if the wall thickness gets too thin, the shaft will be too weak and break easily. Find a cuemaker/cue tech near you that has experience in this area and let him/her tell you how hard your particular shafts will be to work on.
 
I have a couple shafts that are a little more conical than I like, they have very slight taper. I also (separate issue) have a kielwood shaft for my playing cue that is just too thick. Trying to decide if they’re worth altering, I don’t know if it’s something that doesn’t get done or more common than I’m aware of, being turning down a shaft and adding taper. Thanks in advance to those that share knowledge I don’t have
Very little of this type of mods are achieved by actual turning, most of it is a lot of sanding and a lot of measuring, and honestly not worth the effort usually.
 
Very little of this type of mods are achieved by actual turning, most of it is a lot of sanding and a lot of measuring, and honestly not worth the effort usually.
I did a Tad shaft " re-tapering ". Owner wanted to take it down from 13mm to 12.5mm .
I just glued a turning disc at the joint end and took down some using the manual taper machine ( gravity type, no springs ).
Let sit, cut some more then sand .
Anything over .010" will have peaks and valleys if sanded imo .

Would be a lot easier if you have a cnc taper machine of course .
 
I did a Tad shaft " re-tapering ". Owner wanted to take it down from 13mm to 12.5mm .
I just glued a turning disc at the joint end and took down some using the manual taper machine ( gravity type, no springs ).
Let sit, cut some more then sand .
Anything over .010" will have peaks and valleys if sanded imo .

Would be a lot easier if you have a cnc taper machine of course .
What Kim said^^^^^^^^^
 
I've sanded 2 shafts down in the last 3 months. While I'm not a cue builder, it really wasn't all that difficult as I am a very long-time woodworker and wood turner. I have a Mid America cue lathe, and used this to do it, and although I had their upgraded motor, I really wished I had the 1/2 or 3/4hp motor to do this. First shaft I reduced down was a stock Schon 29" as I had 3 of them that I wasn't using and figured it would be fun to try. Wouldn't really hurt if it didn't work out, as I was actually using Jacoby Ultra 30" shafts on my Schons. Cut the cue ferrule down to about 12.7 from the stock 13mm, then sanded the shaft and ferrule to 12.65mm to get the taper that I thought I wanted. Really wasn't that hard, took my time with very good non loading sandpaper, and measured every three inches with calipers, also kept a storyboard with measurements right behind the shaft as I went and measured often. I was careful not to let the shaft heat up, Also, as to the peaks and valleys mentioned by Joey, that's great advice but already had thought about that. I have misc sanding blocks I have made with some 1/8" craft foam for cushion laying around in my shop, and I think I used about a 4" or 5" one to even out the sanding. That shaft hits great, but still really crisp like Schon shafts do. Next shaft was a Schon 30" that I picked up a great deal on from Seyberts. I had picked up a DZ cue just before this with a 30" shaft that I really liked at about 12.8mm, but wanted to make this Schon shaft about 12.6mm, so I measured the DZ shaft and adjusted accordingly. I really like that Schon 30" shaft after retapering, but did put it on the lathe one more time to slightly elongate the taper. So my advice for first time users would be to 1st, have an idea of what dimensions you would like to end up with and stop slightly short your 1st try, 2nd use really good sandpaper, 3rd I found a sanding block necessary as good as it looked when sanding down, the second you use a sanding block you will realize that it was needed, and 4th measure every 3" first, and measure as you go.
 
Very little of this type of mods are achieved by actual turning, most of it is a lot of sanding and a lot of measuring, and honestly not worth the effort usually.
Huh, Really???
 

Attachments

  • istockphoto-1213154438-612x612.jpg
    istockphoto-1213154438-612x612.jpg
    58.7 KB · Views: 94
Last edited:
I have a couple shafts that are a little more conical than I like, they have very slight taper. I also (separate issue) have a kielwood shaft for my playing cue that is just too thick. Trying to decide if they’re worth altering, I don’t know if it’s something that doesn’t get done or more common than I’m aware of, being turning down a shaft and adding taper. Thanks in advance to those that share knowledge I don’t have
It's actually very common.
1st and most important is how the shaft or shafts spin versus how much is coming off.
 
It's actually very common.
1st and most important is how the shaft or shafts spin versus how much is coming off.
Thank you Mike. Is ‘how the shaft spins’ describing whether it’s very straight or how it spins in terms of taper. If I had a magic wand, my goal would be reducing 1/4-1/2 mm and adding some taper. Thank you for the response
 
Thank you Mike. Is ‘how the shaft spins’ describing whether it’s very straight or how it spins in terms of taper. If I had a magic wand, my goal would be reducing 1/4-1/2 mm and adding some taper. Thank you for the response
Good morning
Between centers tells all. The tips are on them so a concave center on one side and a pointed for the joint side. Unless it's a uni loc quick release then an insert for thier brass insert is needed.
Hope this helps.
 
Back
Top