Turn old cue into break cue?

Chrisw83

Registered
I have a lucasi LZ2004NB cue that I no longer use, think it would be wise to increase the weight and buy a new shaft & tip or just sell it and buy a jump & break cue?
 
Many would say decrease the weight. Then put on a hard tip or buy a break shaft.

IMHO nothing wrong with using an old cue that way.

My break cue is a JP playing cue with a hard tip.

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It should work perfectly fine, just put on a hard tip and you are all set. Break cue weight is a never ending debate between light and heavy but in my humble opinion it doesn't matter that much, as long as you feel comfortable swinging the thing purely :wink: Both my break cue and play cue are on the heavy side by todays standards but they feel good to me that way :smile:
 
I have a lucasi LZ2004NB cue that I no longer use, think it would be wise to increase the weight and buy a new shaft & tip or just sell it and buy a jump & break cue?

You're getting good advice here. If it were me, I'd have a Samsara (or something similar) break tip installed and save your money.

Personally, I like my break cue to be within an ounce of my playing cue...with the same weight being even better. It's all subjective to each and every player, so there's no right or wrong choices.

Maniac
 
I have a lucasi LZ2004NB cue that I no longer use, think it would be wise to increase the weight and buy a new shaft & tip or just sell it and buy a jump & break cue?

Maybe have break tip and ferrule installed on the current shaft. Or simply buy a break shaft. As for the weight. Use it as is before adjusting. It might ok at the current weight.
 
Before I bought my Gulyassy Orange Crusher I was using an early '70s Adam Steve Mizerak cue with no points or inlays and a short ferrule. After moving to South Carolina in '97 I had a water buffalo tip put on it. I'm not sure of the weight but I worked pretty well as long as I used it.
 
Thanks guys, will just put a new tip on the cue and go from there. The weight is the same as my regular cue, but I am also not a heavy hitter so I figured more weight would get more power to the cue ball.
 
A friend sent me a G10 tip/ferrule combo, and laying around I had an
old McDermott shaft that was 13.5 mm, 30" long.
We changed the collar and added the G10.
Turned the basically unusable shaft into a canon that fits both of my
jump break cues, and just about any 3/8-10 butt
Really crushed the rack


20180927_101140.jpg
 
All above advice is valid, and could help. It's my opinion, that more important than a new cue or tip, is to work on a flat stick, center cue ball(and I mean dead nuts center the only thing your looking at and thinking about), and controlling the cue ball to stay in the middle of the table. Do that, and your winning more games no matter what cue/tip combo you choose. Matt D.
 
Thanks guys, will just put a new tip on the cue and go from there. The weight is the same as my regular cue, but I am also not a heavy hitter so I figured more weight would get more power to the cue ball.

Condsider changing the ferrule also. The current one will break/crack eventually. A standard ferrule and a break ferrule are not the same material.
 
All above advice is valid, and could help. It's my opinion, that more important than a new cue or tip, is to work on a flat stick, center cue ball(and I mean dead nuts center the only thing your looking at and thinking about), and controlling the cue ball to stay in the middle of the table. Do that, and your winning more games no matter what cue/tip combo you choose. Matt D.

I prefer lighter break cues that gets me more speed.
From what I've heard lighter is better for breaking, and break cues are typically light.
There are exceptions but I have never been able to break well with a heavy cue.
It's hard to come through the ball with enough speed using a hey avy cue.

Reminds me of coaching little league baseball when I had to take the heavy bats
away from my players that "dad" spent $300 on, and give them something they could generate a quicker bat with.
 
The difference between a break cue and a playing cue is the same difference between a
fiddle and a violin.....it is the manner that it’s used.
I broke with my playing cue for a few years till I got tired changing tips....
...then I broke with a Tad for quite a while.
My break cues feel like my player...maybe a little harder tip...but not too hard.
 
I would advise against a phenolic tip (G10). They are illegal in many tournaments and leagues for a reason. And you will have much more control with something like a Samsara break tip. I changed my phenolic tip to that and it was pretty much the best change I ever made.
 
I'm up one...I light cigars with $100 bills:grin:

Mr Kohara would’ve killed me if he knew I was breaking with one of his cues...
...but I was totally hooked to it....it had an ivory ferrule...I hate playing with ivory...
...but I sure liked breaking with it.....:lovies:

I don’t understand the fascination with light break cues......
...they have a maximum weight for a break...25 ounces...I think it’s still a rule some places...
....Never heard of a low limit....hmmm
 
Mike Gulyassy owns the patent for the ferrule tip and came up with the original Sledgehammer. 17 years later, McDermott is the current maker of his Sledgehammer. So, I think he knows a thing or two about break cues. :)

Before I bought my Gulyassy Orange Crusher I was using an early '70s Adam Steve Mizerak cue with no points or inlays and a short ferrule. After moving to South Carolina in '97 I had a water buffalo tip put on it. I'm not sure of the weight but I worked pretty well as long as I used it.
 
Mike Gulyassy owns the patent for the ferrule tip and came up with the original Sledgehammer. 17 years later, McDermott is the current maker of his Sledgehammer. So, I think he knows a thing or two about break cues. :)

I had an original Sledgehammer before I bought the Orange Crusher. Lost it in a trade.
 
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