Turning down a not new (2 year old) shaft.

arsenius

arsenius

Nothing ever registers...
Silver Member
Hi All,

I have a Jacoby shaft that I want to get turned down about .5 mm to 12.5.
I was asking someone about it yesterday, and they said that if I did that, I would probably ruin the shaft because moisture would get inside and it would warp. Is this true? Does it matter how old a shaft is before it gets turned down? I had never heard of this. He mentioned that the shaft wouldn't have any sealant on it anymore, but couldn't you reseal it?

Thanks
 
There shouldn't be any problem turning it down...use some sanding sealer on it afterwards and you'll be fine...
________
 
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Varney Cues said:
Just have it turned down & resealed by a professional. $40 should cover it.;)
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How many times would you turn it down to take off 1/2mm?:)

THANKS
 
macguy said:
$40 sounds like a lot to take a shaft down 1/2 mm.
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Not if it's done right. If you take it to someone who simply starts sanding on it with some 100 grit paper, and calls it good when it feels a bit thinner, $40 is probably too much.

Take it to a pro that is going to cut it down with a cnc or a router mounted in a lathe, and it's cheap. After cutting, it gets a light sanding, resealed, and retipped.

If your cue cost you $40 to start with, you need to go to the first guy. :D
 
Turning Down

Sheldon hit the nail on the head. Having some want to be sand it down with 100 is cheap. And you get what you pay for. .5mm is quite a bit and if they really go at it with 100 it's going to get plenty hot and that's just the start of your problems. 40.00 bucks to put it in a machine is reasonable. You have to take the tip off put in a new center and then program the machine to match the existing taper. Let hope the center on the joint end is good, or that's another centering operation. With a shaft that thin I figure maybe .005 to .003 per pass . Then finish sand seal burnish and reinstall new tip. Now I remember why I turn a lot of this work down.
And we don't even want to think about a shaft that has some wobble to start with.
 
Great, thanks guys. I thought it should be possible, but I do trust the guy who told me this. Now I just need to find someone to do it. I'm in South Korea, so it's not that easy to find someone I trust. I've seen some of the cue work they do here, and it's definitely below US standards. Leather wraps with big, obvious joints in them, and gaps at the edge of the wrap. Things like that. I love Koreans, but I feel that they don't always have the commitment to real quality that you get in America. I think perhaps, though, they haven't seen it as much either...
 
arsenius said:
I love Koreans, but I feel that they don't always have the commitment to real quality
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I don't know...those new Kia Sorrento's are pretty damn nice SUV's.;)
 
Varney Cues said:
I don't know...those new Kia Sorrento's are pretty damn nice SUV's.;)
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I agree with you on their manufacturing. I don't mean to comment on that at all. But in terms of handmade things, quality just isn't always there. If you look around at the welding jobs they do here, they are all the same, low quality. Again, I don't mean the weld joints in the frame of your SUV, I mean railings and things like that.

I saw a jack someone had built for moving pool tables around, and was horrified. They bumped into another table, and I was sure everything was going to hit the floor.
 
Sheldon said:
Not if it's done right. If you take it to someone who simply starts sanding on it with some 100 grit paper, and calls it good when it feels a bit thinner, $40 is probably too much.

Take it to a pro that is going to cut it down with a cnc or a router mounted in a lathe, and it's cheap. After cutting, it gets a light sanding, resealed, and retipped.

If your cue cost you $40 to start with, you need to go to the first guy. :D
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On a used shaft lightly sanding it down just as you would if you were doing the finished work on any new shaft seems like the only way you can do it. Any used shaft is going to have some runout, most likely too much to put it between centers and turn it. I can appreciate the skills of cuemakers but be honest, if this shaft was brought to you, in most cases you would sand it down the 1/2 mm..
 
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cutter said:
Sheldon hit the nail on the head. Having some want to be sand it down with 100 is cheap. And you get what you pay for. .5mm is quite a bit and if they really go at it with 100 it's going to get plenty hot and that's just the start of your problems. 40.00 bucks to put it in a machine is reasonable. You have to take the tip off put in a new center and then program the machine to match the existing taper. Let hope the center on the joint end is good, or that's another centering operation. With a shaft that thin I figure maybe .005 to .003 per pass . Then finish sand seal burnish and reinstall new tip. Now I remember why I turn a lot of this work down.
And we don't even want to think about a shaft that has some wobble to start with.
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1/2 mm is only .010 from each side of the shaft. The shaft would have to be perfect, (it's used remember), to even attempt it between centers with a cutter. Taking into account you have to leave at least a few thousands for the finished sanding to complete the job.
 
macguy said:
1/2 mm is only .010 from each side of the shaft. The shaft would have to be perfect, (it's used remember), to even attempt it between centers with a cutter. Taking into account you have to leave at least a few thousands for the finished sanding to complete the job.
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ANYBODY---is it advisable to sand/cut .010 per side at one time???
 
arsenius said:
Hi All,

I have a Jacoby shaft that I want to get turned down about .5 mm to 12.5.
I was asking someone about it yesterday, and they said that if I did that, I would probably ruin the shaft because moisture would get inside and it would warp. Is this true? Does it matter how old a shaft is before it gets turned down? I had never heard of this. He mentioned that the shaft wouldn't have any sealant on it anymore, but couldn't you reseal it?

Thanks
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Very good question, however who ever gave that information most likely has never done this type of work. This is a very simple procedure and not very time consuming.

I normally charge $25 to turn down / re-taper, and re-seal a shaft for my local customers. Turning a shaft down to 12.5 mm is about as for as I will also go, I personally think that the integrity of the shaft will be compromised if the shaft is turned down further.
 
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Better deal -

All -

I had Rick Howard turn down a shaft (to 13mm if you can believe that) and retaper to his taper. He put a Lepro tip on at the same time!

He charged me $15 to retaper and new tip.

I thought that was a pretty good deal.

Call Rick Howard, I like his taper (and prices)

Ken
 
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