Totally dumb question: does the ferrule get turned down too? just wondering how it fits on a turned down shaft. Told ya it was dumb.
Turning down a shaft
- Thread starter RichSchultz
- Start date
Yes.
IF it only needs some .005" or 1/8th of a MM, it can be sanded.
1/4MM or more, it has to be turned between centers and tapered on a tapering machine to get better results.
This is where the cue maker hopes it's straight or close to.
The tip gets removed and replaced with a disc with a center hole so it can be turned without drilling a hole on the ferrule.
If you only sand the wood and not the ferrule, you will have an hour glass looking end .
IF it only needs some .005" or 1/8th of a MM, it can be sanded.
1/4MM or more, it has to be turned between centers and tapered on a tapering machine to get better results.
This is where the cue maker hopes it's straight or close to.
The tip gets removed and replaced with a disc with a center hole so it can be turned without drilling a hole on the ferrule.
If you only sand the wood and not the ferrule, you will have an hour glass looking end .
how does the ferrule fit snuggly then, after turning?
You make a new ferrule, tread and glue it on with quality epoxy.
ahhhh, I see! Thank you! I'm having a 12.75 turned down a little bit to 12.5. Wonder if I should even bother?!
I've had good luck turning down my own shafts so far. Make sure there is support down on the end by the ferrule or you'll have the shaft whipping and snapping into 1,000 pieces as soon as you start the lathe. I've turned down about 0.25 max with fairly accurate results "calipers every few seconds" and long smooth and steady strokes make sure the taper stays about even. Now retapering... that's a different story and takes a bit more patience but CAN be done. I've done both and personally love my taper, but wouldn't recommend it if you're new to woodworking in general. Finish/sealer is also important afterwards. Good luck!
In most cases, they just leave the ferrule on when they take it down and do it all simultaneously. then match the tip with a razor.
No, you shouldn't bother taking that shaft down. You Should get a new shaft and turn that one... That way at least you know worst case scenario you are stuck with what you have now
IF you really have short chubby fingers and can appreciate .010" less in wood in the stroking area, go ahead.
But, you cannot glue wood back when it's gone.
i have small hands (cue the trump jokes) and use an open bridge...
Why would you replace an existing ferrule ?
Is there something wrong with the current one ?
The ferrule gets turned to diameter along with the rest of the shaft.
Lets not make the task more difficult and involved than it needs to be.
I've done 1,000s of turn-downs and never once had to replace the ferrule in the process.
A 1/4mm T/D takes about 20 min, start to finish.
BRO JOey,
Think concave live-center, no tip removal.
Tip gets cut along with ferrule.
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