Two Full splice questions

[olgoat]

When a cuemaker talks about full splice cues, is there still a joint under the wrap or is the butt, wrap and forearm all one piece?

When I see titlist conversion cues with wraps and a butt that matches the points, I always wonder if there is a screw or joint under the wrap.

Also, I have heard that with the advent of cored cues and modern adhesives, the benefits of the full splice are not as important as they once were. Opinions?

Thanks
Tim

 

[SpiderWeb]

When a cuemaker talks about full splice cues, is there still a joint under the wrap or is the butt, wrap and forearm all one piece?

When I see titlist conversion cues with wraps and a butt that matches the points, I always wonder if there is a screw or joint under the wrap.

Also, I have heard that with the advent of cored cues and modern adhesives, the benefits of the full splice are not as important as they once were. Opinions?

Thanks
Tim

Im sure there could be a screw in those cues but it might take a magician to screw everything together.

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

A full splice cue consists of two major components; the forearm and the handle/prong wood. Four prong means four points.

The only screw in these cues is the shaft joint connecting pin or maybe a weight bolt. The only thing under the wrap (if it is wrapped) is the handle wood.

Here is an example of one I completed a while back:

 

[pdcue]

the joys of semantics

depends on who you ask

most cuemakers use something known as a 'half-splice'
which isn't really spliced at all, but is made by gluing points
and veneers into chanels in the "front"

these things tend to be 12-14 inches in length, so there
must be a handle section joined to them
typically a screw is used, but some cuemakers don't.

some cuemakers also opt to chop a full splice 2-3 inches
past the end of the spliced part and add a handle section

the splicing technique was originally developed to reduce
the tendancy to warp - much less of a concern these days

splicing or coring is no guarentee that a cue will be ANY better,
or even as good as, one that isn't

that result lies more in the skill and commitment to quality
of the cuemaker

Dale Pierce

 

[olgoat]

I have seen the term "Long splice" used as well. "In fact I think I saw it on the Arnot's site). Is this used to distinguish between a 2/3 full splice and "full fullsplce"?

Also, is a "merry widow" a full fullsplice cue or a one piece butt with no points?

Thanks for all your time.

Tim

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

splicing or coring is no guarentee that a cue will be ANY better,
or even as good as, one that isn't

that result lies more in the skill and commitment to quality
of the cuemaker

Dale Pierce

I disagree ref coring. I'm not suggesting that every forearm should be cored, but there are some woods that certainly should be. There are several reasons and or benefits to coring a cue. Weight control (either lighter or heavier), an aid to controlling the balance point, stability, to deter warpage, consistency in hit, these are a few points to consider.

Have you ever cored a cue, watched it being done, or played with a cored cue? Just curious.

 

[olgoat]

Yes, I currently own a cored cue. I have not owned a full splice cue todate.

TWC

 

[pdcue]

clarification

I disagree ref coring. I'm not suggesting that every forearm should be cored, but there are some woods that certainly should be. There are several reasons and or benefits to coring a cue. Weight control (either lighter or heavier), an aid to controlling the balance point, stability, to deter warpage, consistency in hit, these are a few points to consider.

Have you ever cored a cue, watched it being done, or played with a cored cue? Just curious.

have you ever made a cue? Just curious.

You might want to re-read my post, I thought it was clear, but the
idea was:

Given cue A, a well made cue, that is not cored, not spliced.

you can't assume that cue B, which is cored and/or spliced
will be any better, or even as good

see "the proof is in the pudding"

Dale

 

[JoeyInCali]

Have you ever cored a cue, watched it being done, or played with a cored cue? Just curious.
It's done with a gun drill with an airhose gun blowing behind it so chips gets out of the way.

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

have you ever made a cue? Just curious.

Dale

You apparently took offense to my question. It was not meant to offend, only to establish a base line to carry on a simple discussion. Maybe it's best we don't even attempt that.

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Have you ever cored a cue, watched it being done, or played with a cored cue? Just curious.
It's done with a gun drill with an airhose gun blowing behind it so chips gets out of the way.

Thanks Joey, but I wasn't asking for the benefit of learning. I'm familiar with the procedure.

 

[rhncue]

I disagree ref coring. I'm not suggesting that every forearm should be cored, but there are some woods that certainly should be. There are several reasons and or benefits to coring a cue. Weight control (either lighter or heavier), an aid to controlling the balance point, stability, to deter warpage, consistency in hit, these are a few points to consider.

Have you ever cored a cue, watched it being done, or played with a cored cue? Just curious.

I think you missed the point of PDCUES answer to your statement. He stated that just the action of coring a cue does not neccessairily mean that the cored cue will automatically be a better playing cue than a non-cored cue. Although I core most of my cues I deffinatly have to agree with Mr. PD. I've played with an awfull lot of non-cored cues that played very well. This, I believe, is what Mr. PD stated and you say that you disagree. It sounds as if you are trying to state that the very act of coring a cue automatically makes it play better than any non-cored cue. It's a lot harder to core a cue properly than many people realize. Boring a straight hole and turning a properly sized spindle is a piece of cake of coarse but gluing them properly together can be quite a *****. If not done properly then the cue is much worse than before it was cored.

Dick

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

I think you missed the point of PDCUES answer to your statement. He stated that just the action of coring a cue does not neccessairily mean that the cored cue will automatically be a better playing cue than a non-cored cue. Although I core most of my cues I deffinatly have to agree with Mr. PD. I've played with an awfull lot of non-cored cues that played very well. This, I believe, is what Mr. PD stated and you say that you disagree. It sounds as if you are trying to state that the very act of coring a cue automatically makes it play better than any non-cored cue. It's a lot harder to core a cue properly than many people realize. Boring a straight hole and turning a properly sized spindle is a piece of cake of coarse but gluing them properly together can be quite a *****.
Dick

I don't believe I missed the point at all.
Perhaps you can point out where he used, or even eluded to the
word "play" or "playability" or "playing" (as you have). He stated "ANY better,
or even as good as". Better or as good as, in what regard?

If you interpreted my comment as saying "the very act of coring a cue
automatically makes it play better than any non-cored cue", then possibly
it's you that missed a point.

I provided at least 5 sound reasons for coring a cue and I stand by them.
Nowhere did I state that coring a cue made it play better than a non-cored,
(even though with certain woods I know it does).

If not done properly then the cue is much worse than before it was cored.

Of course!!! Why would there even be a need to make such a statement? The same could be said for installing a tip, a wrap, cleaning a shaft, etc, etc, etc.

Although I core most of my cues

I'm well aware of that Dick, you state it very often here.

 

[JoeyInCali]

splicing or coring is no guarentee that a cue will be ANY better,
or even as good as, one that isn't


I dunno what the confusion is over this statement by Dale.

 

[rhncue]

I don't believe I missed the point at all.
Perhaps you can point out where he used, or even eluded to the
word "play" or "playability" or "playing" (as you have). He stated "ANY better,
or even as good as". Better or as good as, in what regard?

If you interpreted my comment as saying "the very act of coring a cue
automatically makes it play better than any non-cored cue", then possibly
it's you that missed a point.

I provided at least 5 sound reasons for coring a cue and I stand by them.
Nowhere did I state that coring a cue made it play better than a non-cored,
(even though with certain woods I know it does).
Of course!!! Why would there even be a need to make such a statement? The same could be said for installing a tip, a wrap, cleaning a shaft, etc, etc, etc.

I'm well aware of that Dick, you state it very often here.

Apparently I mistated exactly what he said. What he said was:

"splicing or coring is no guarentee that a cue will be ANY better,
or even as good as, one that isn't. That result lies more in the skill and commitment to quality of the cuemaker".

You came back and said that you disagree with that statement. I can't understand how you could disagree with that staement. It's very easy to core a cue hap-hazardly or with sub-par materials and then I'm sure you would have to agree that that cored cue isn't built as soundly as a cue that was built without coring but done in a meticilous atmosphere.

I believe in the coring of many cues for a number of reasons but I don't believe that a blanket statement that all cored cues are better than non cored stands,

Dick

 

[pdcue]

one more try

You apparently took offense to my question. It was not meant to offend, only to establish a base line to carry on a simple discussion. Maybe it's best we don't even attempt that.

Ok, what was it you wanted to discuss?

the orig question was about Splicing
my comment was a general one about the result of splicing
and/or coring a cue

you replied that you disagreed with my comment about coring,
pointing out some valid reasons for coring a front

your reply fails to compute _unless_ you thought I was saying
it is not a good idea to ever core a cue. not what I said, so I
assumed you had not understood my orig statement

FWIW my emphasis was on splicing because that is what the OP
asked about

Dale Pierce

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Apparently I mistated exactly what he said. What he said was:
"splicing or coring is no guarentee that a cue will be ANY better,
or even as good as, one that isn't. That result lies more in the skill and commitment to quality of the cuemaker".

You came back and said that you disagree with that statement. I can't understand how you could disagree with that staement. It's very easy to core a cue hap-hazardly or with sub-par materials and then I'm sure you would have to agree that that cored cue isn't built as soundly as a cue that was built without coring but done in a meticilous atmosphere.

I believe in the coring of many cues for a number of reasons but I don't believe that a blanket statement that all cored cues are better than non cored stands,
Dick

And I should not have included "that result lies more in the skill and commitment to quality of the cuemaker" in my reply (actually that was inadvertent). It was not that statement I disagree with, (it appears that might be the confusion or misunderstanding between you & I). But I see no need to state the obvious, that good workmanship and quality materials are a must. I feel my thoughts on that were made clear in a previous post.

but I don't believe a blanket statement that all cored cues are better than non cored stands

Please don't misquote me Dick. I made no such statement. What I said was "I'm not suggesting that every forearm should be cored, but there are some woods that certainly should be". My position on that remains unchanged.

The net of it is, each of us build the way we believe is best. Some core, some don't. Some core (selectively) because they understand the "why" of coring, and some core because they are followers. Whatever the reasoning, or reasons, coring a cue (do I really need to insert "if done properly" here?) will make it better for at least those five reasons I stated earlier. That's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it

By the way, my personal playing cue is non-cored (for a reason).

 

[olgoat]

Well.. I think I got some answers. Maybe I'll try again another time on the other questions.

Thanks
Tim