Great point Dave; one thing I would add is something I overlooked when I started replacing tips. If using HSS tooling, make sure it’s sharp. Dull tooling will not face the ferrule flat enough.
ultraskin tip install
- Thread starter dendweller
- Start date
PracticeChampion
Well-known member
Ive put a bunch on and did have a problem once but it was my lathe not cutting square not the tip. I sand tip with 220 and wipe off clean with paper towel to get dust off, 220 Ferrell then glue and let sit 5 mins with pressure from tail stock.
I'll say after sanding flat and clean good if you look at tip you'll see holes in it and they seem to really drink the glue so I put it on fairly heavy vrs some others like lepro
I'll say after sanding flat and clean good if you look at tip you'll see holes in it and they seem to really drink the glue so I put it on fairly heavy vrs some others like lepro
Please define Cuemaker.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
SINCE WHEN?
Do Cue makers only reply here.
YOU! Are a Cue maker too. You know it and so do I. !!!!!!
I started using Loctite Professional on Ultra Skin tips. I have not needed to put the prep coat on and let it dry first like I have had to do with some other layered tips. But it is not a bad idea just to play it safe. My son used some older Loctite Professional recently and had one pop off while installing it. He then put a light coat on. Let it dry, then put a wet coat on and it and installed with no problem with the older glue.
dendweller
Well-known member
Thanks for all the replies, some good information here.
Put one on this morning.
Couple things I changed.
Didn't score the tip with a razor, just sanded with 250. Cleaned off the sanded area with masking tape.
Put a thin layer on first, wiped it off, waited 30 seconds and put a couple drops before applying to shaft.
Didn't put quite the pressure as I usually do with the triangles.
Took it out of the lathe and did something else for a while. Most times I'm trimming within a few minutes.
Did less trimming with tooling, more with a razor blade.
Seemed to take fine. Thanks for all the input.
Put one on this morning.
Couple things I changed.
Didn't score the tip with a razor, just sanded with 250. Cleaned off the sanded area with masking tape.
Put a thin layer on first, wiped it off, waited 30 seconds and put a couple drops before applying to shaft.
Didn't put quite the pressure as I usually do with the triangles.
Took it out of the lathe and did something else for a while. Most times I'm trimming within a few minutes.
Did less trimming with tooling, more with a razor blade.
Seemed to take fine. Thanks for all the input.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I'll second this. The ONLY time I've had a tip pop off was when I decided to get new glue based on internet advice. I went with Loctite Pro. The tip popped in about 3 breaks. I sanded it flat and used my old gorilla glue super glue. The tip is still on with hundreds of breaks.
I'd guess Loctite Pro is great when new but older it's garbage. I didn't want to take the chance again and bought a new bottle of Gorilla. No problems since.
If you press the tip too firmly, you will make a dry bond, basically you squeezed out too much glue. Use just enough pressure to keep the tip in place.
Alan
Phelps Custom Cues
What we all need to make a mental note of is pigskin absorbs more glue than cow. And most layered tips are pigskin. So getting a dryer weaker bond is more likely. The slower the glue dries the more likley it is to happen if no prep seal coat is used.
Similar to pre-coating a cue with BSI before final finish?
In explaining your technique you stated that you rub your glue around. Don't do that. That starts the curing before you touch the tip to the ferrule. Put a nice tall drop of CA onto your tip. Then place the tip onto the ferrule.
I sand my tips, then prime with a drop of thin CA. Let it dry, then lightly sand again. The priming stops the tip from sucking up the glue. I breathe several times on to the tip and ferrule. The moisture helps the CA cure. Then put a nice tall drop of CA onto the tip. Place the tip onto the ferrule. If you need to slide the tip around to center, do it. Don't pick up the tip.
I sand my tips, then prime with a drop of thin CA. Let it dry, then lightly sand again. The priming stops the tip from sucking up the glue. I breathe several times on to the tip and ferrule. The moisture helps the CA cure. Then put a nice tall drop of CA onto the tip. Place the tip onto the ferrule. If you need to slide the tip around to center, do it. Don't pick up the tip.