Used LD wooden Shafts and Condition Explanations

Shooter08

Runde Aficianado
Silver Member
We have several Wooden LD shafts, none that I would consider perfectly true. I don‘t shoot w LD shafts but everyone of these shafts I would have no issue using, but when it comes to selling, What is the appropriate way to describe them? I’m guessing there is not one LD wooden shaft that isn’t new at any given pool hall that is as purchased new Condition. This causes a conundrum when selling, opinions appreciated, other than just selling in person which would obviously be best.
 
You can spec the deflection characteristics and sell the numbers.
Please explain? Like I mentioned LD shafts are not my thing. I like plain old sugar marked old growth maple. Never tried a carbon shaft either before. I remember when the first 314 showed up at the pool hall I hung out at and was not in my budget at 16 or so.
 
Specs like NPL and deflection in degrees from several points around the NPL. Not my thing either. It's Dr. Daves stuff from the BH/FH E thread.
 
Specs like NPL and deflection in degrees from several points around the NPL. Not my thing either. It's Dr. Daves stuff from the BH/FH E thread.
Ok, when Dr Dave calculations are involved to sell used LD shafts I’m out. These shafts are used, they do not roll perfect, what is the best way to advertise them. I don’t expect to get rich. Thinking high end ones $175 shipped, most less.
 
Ok, when Dr Dave calculations are involved to sell used LD shafts I’m out. These shafts are used, they do not roll perfect, what is the best way to advertise them. I don’t expect to get rich. Thinking high end ones $175 shipped, most less.
Lol. Pic array. Post and wait...
 
Lay each shaft on a well lit pool table. Use your phone camera to photo the length of the shaft bottom as it sits on the table. That should give someone a good idea of the amount of lift in the shaft .
If you had the ability to video each shaft being rolled on the table - even better.
 
Commonly you see shafts advertised as having a “taper roll”
When not perfectly straight
Sellers tried to make it not sound too bad by saying the tip does not leave /lift the cloth
You can make a video rolling the shaft along the table surface, showing how much airspace it gets in the wobble
Jmho
 
My days of buying stuff unseen/tested are over. If i can't look it over and play a while i'm probably out. They are a few, VERY few, that i'd consider buying a cue from blind. We REALLY need a big AZ swap meet. Wish i had the time/$ to organize one. Face-to-face sales and a place to test would stop a ton of bullshit.
 
I have no issue saying they have a taper roll, are not true, or are not straight. I just don’t want them sent back because somebody isn’t happy. I’m obviously trying to disclose as much as I can. Like I said before, if anybody takes their 6 month old used wooden LD shaft out of their case and rolls it, is it true/straight?
 
LD makes no difference. If you have calipers, measure the ferrule diameter. Take a few pictures, including closeups of the ferrule area and joint area. State the joint thread. Take one 10 second video of rolling the shaft on the table, with the phone camera lens even with the bottom of the shaft. Name a price that will move the shaft. That's it. Same for every shaft.

Everyone and their mother today has a smartphone that they can take the pictures and video in 30 seconds.
 
Ok, when Dr Dave calculations are involved to sell used LD shafts I’m out. These shafts are used, they do not roll perfect, what is the best way to advertise them. I don’t expect to get rich. Thinking high end ones $175 shipped, most less.

They make rollers that you can spin the shaft like it is in a lathe. Using a dial indicator on a base it is easy to find the maximum run-out.

It's probably $50 in equipment and a few minutes to get a good result. It's how shafts should be sold.

The real question is, 'does a warped shaft matter?'

I'm fully convinced that I've never seen a shaft that was wrapped to the point of affecting play, if a person has good starting alignment that puts the tip within a few millimeters of the ball.

I used to play with a house cue that was warped enough to see from 20ft. I ran a lot of tables with that cue. I didn't ever check to make sure the warp was a certain direction, I just played.

The contact distance of the cue tip on the ball is so short that almost any warp is negligible.

I only check cues I'm selling for straightness, not ones I use.
 
They make rollers that you can spin the shaft like it is in a lathe. Using a dial indicator on a base it is easy to find the maximum run-out.

It's probably $50 in equipment and a few minutes to get a good result. It's how shafts should be sold.

The real question is, 'does a warped shaft matter?'

I'm fully convinced that I've never seen a shaft that was wrapped to the point of affecting play, if a person has good starting alignment that puts the tip within a few millimeters of the ball.

I used to play with a house cue that was warped enough to see from 20ft. I ran a lot of tables with that cue. I didn't ever check to make sure the warp was a certain direction, I just played.

The contact distance of the cue tip on the ball is so short that almost any warp is negligible.

I only check cues I'm selling for straightness, not ones I use.
Someone please send a link to recommended equipment. Thx, Shooter08
 
Someone please send a link to recommended equipment. Thx, Shooter08
You're wasting your money to sell a shaft. Use your phone and take a 10 second video of it rolling. That's better than 90% of the people do now. Hold the camera low so the gap between the shaft and the table is visible, and the video can show how that gap changes as you roll it.
 
You're wasting your money to sell a shaft. Use your phone and take a 10 second video of it rolling. That's better than 90% of the people do now. Hold the camera low so the gap between the shaft and the table is visible, and the video can show how that gap changes as you roll it.

I agree with this, but if a person really wants to quantify roll, the equipment I posted is the cheapest way to begin to do that.
 
You're wasting your money to sell a shaft. Use your phone and take a 10 second video of it rolling. That's better than 90% of the people do now. Hold the camera low so the gap between the shaft and the table is visible, and the video can show how that gap changes as you roll it.
I don’t have a pool table at home, wooden kitchen table adequate. Seems like wooden table would dramatize the roll compared to a felt table. Would like people to compare apples to apples. Thx
 
Felt hides lift, no doubt about it.
That's my concern, don't want to be penalized for trying to fully disclose exactly what is going on with the shaft. Like I said, all of them would be fine in my opinion to shoot with. I just wouldn't pair them with a collector cue, but none of these have any special ringwork anyway. Thx, Shooter08
 
Roll it on your table, gauge the lift in credit card thickness.

It's a used shaft. The buyer (should) understand this.
 
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