using KJ's ringcutter for shafts

BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
i don't know what could cut a shaft any smoother than this does
i've used the 6 wing slot cutters too
thanks kj
it works pretty well as a ring cutter too ;)


pics just wont show how smooth it is
007-3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanx Brent,
It's always my pleasure to be of service.
In all honesty, I'd have never imagined that these saws would work for cutting shafts. My thinking was that the teeth were just too fine and would load-up immediately. You've shown me the light. A little ingenuity goes a long way. Tell you what, no tax on your next order.

I've still got about 100 of the saws in stock and mandrels as well for those looking to try this set-up.

By the way, Brent's good people to deal with but I'm sure most of you already know that anyway.
 
KJ Cues said:
Thanx Brent,
It's always my pleasure to be of service.
In all honesty, I'd have never imagined that these saws would work for cutting shafts. My thinking was that the teeth were just too fine and would load-up immediately. You've shown me the light. A little ingenuity goes a long way. Tell you what, no tax on your next order.

I've still got about 100 of the saws in stock and mandrels as well for those looking to try this set-up.

By the way, Brent's good people to deal with but I'm sure most of you already know that anyway.
Click to expand...
i was thinking the same about the fine teeth.
but, i guess the router is going so fast it throws it out????, i dunno
first try at this, i kept an air hose handy just in case, but didn't need it
i've also tapered a couple butts with it, works fantastic so far
do you know offhand how many teeth the blade has?
i DONTTTTTTTTTTTTTT wanta count them, LOL
 
BHQ said:
i don't know what could cut a shaft any smoother than this does
i've used the 6 wing slott cutters too
thanks kj
it works pretty well as a ring cutter too ;)


pics just wont show how smooth it is
007-3.jpg
Click to expand...

Cool to see that it did work.

This was actually my initial idea when I did my purchase from KJ after a loooong discussion some time back where I suggested using a similar blade, designed for a Dremel, but this was dangerous stuff as I understood :)
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=74733


Cant wait to get back to my machine again and try it out, as mentioned http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=96970
It's however 1300Km from me right now...

I guess you did the rough passes with a normal mill and then did some finishing passes with KJ's blade ?

As Dick and Bob has discussed in the first link (with the math), more tooth's crossing the shaft, the better we get it:wink:

Kent
 
Newton said:
Cool to see that it did work.

This was actually my initial idea when I did my purchase from KJ after a loooong discussion some time back where I suggested using a similar blade, designed for a Dremel, but this was dangerous stuff as I understood :)
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=74733


Cant wait to get back to my machine again and try it out, as mentioned http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=96970
It's however 1300Km from me right now...

I guess you did the rough passes with a normal mill and then did some finishing passes with KJ's blade ?

As Dick and Bob has discussed in the first link (with the math), more tooth's crossing the shaft, the better we get it:wink:

Kent
Click to expand...
all my cut shafts were cut using a two fluted straight router bit
this particular shaft only needed to be taken from 13.50mm to 13mm for final size after i put the phenolic ferrule on (break cue)

with a much better router than what i'm using, dewalt laminate trimmer, i'd say the results would be even better
this was cut at 56TPI
with the router bits i was using, i would have to slow it down to 112TPI to get it anywhere close to this smooth a cut
30,000rpm router x 2 tooth bit= an ok so so cut
30,000rpm router x 100 tooth blade = :thumbup:
 
BHQ:
Totally agree with you :) It looks like we have a winner hear and kj case I'm glad I don't need a table saw setup in case.
I'm not sure what you mean by a better router thoug.Do you dear to run it with even higher Rpm's if you had the chanse? I think KJ mentioned in his email/link that running at to high Rpm's was not recommended.
Mine peaks out at 18k Rpm's and I think it would be enough for my use.
Torque is I guess not the botle neck here, or?

Kent
 
Newton said:
BHQ:
Totally agree with you :) It looks like we have a winner hear and kj case I'm glad I don't need a table saw setup in case.
I'm not sure what you mean by a better router thoug.Do you dear to run it with even higher Rpm's if you had the chanse? I think KJ mentioned in his email/link that running at to high Rpm's was not recommended.
Mine peaks out at 18k Rpm's and I think it would be enough for my use.
Torque is I guess not the botle neck here, or?

Kent
Click to expand...
i'm speaking of my router not being the best out there. i have three of them, all are at least 3 years old now. i think time and use has worn the bushings or whatever it is that maintains the the shaft true. plus, i dropped one on the concrete, that couldnt have done it any good :rolleyes:
two of them are pretty bad.
the one in the pic is the best of the three. it's still good & true as it was new it's really not an issue,(that i know of) unless you're cutting the rings.
kj's arbor is machined & balanced to run true.
just for kicks i put it one of the other wornout routers and i thought the SOB was going to vibrate loose from the holder.
therefore the blade is not cutting exactly perpendicular to the ring billet
i dont have a speed control , i should probably do that
so , imo, a newer better router can only improve the results
today, i made some second cuts on some shafts that had nelsonite on them
even that sticky gunk didnt load up in the fine teeth
 
Several months ago I was asked what the safe RPM limit would be on the saws so I posed the question to my supplier. I was told that there was no limit as far as the saw is concerned but that the limiting factor would be the balance of the overall setup. An unbalanced mounting can be a killer even at low RPM so the mandrel must sit true in the collet. Some collets are better than others. You may need to reset the mandrel in the collet several times before you find the sweet spot. A test indicator may be helpful here. Once you have the setup true, this puppy will sing.

One way to tell if your mandrel is running true when cutting rings from billets is to measure the amount of mtrl. you're cutting. The saw is .035/.036" thick. If you're cutting more than that, the saw is running out of true by 1/2 the amount of the difference btwn. the saw thickness and the cut it's taking.

I'm very pleased that you guys are finding success in this alternative application. A better mouse-trap may be at hand.
 
Last edited:
KJ Cues said:
Several months ago I was asked what the safe RPM limit would be on the saws so I posed the question to my supplier. I was told that there was no limit as far as the saw is concerned but that the limiting factor would be the balance of the overall setup. An unbalanced mounting can be a killer even at low RPM so the mandrel must sit true in the collet. Some collets are better than others. You may need to reset the mandrel in the collet several times before you find the sweet spot. A test indicator may be helpful here. Once you have the setup true, this puppy will sing.

One way to tell if your madrel is running true when cutting rings from billets is to measure the amount of mtrl. you're cutting. The saw is .035/.036" thick. If you're cutting more than that, the saw is running out of true by 1/2 the amount of the difference btwn. the saw thickness and the cut it's taking.

I'm very pleased that you guys are finding success in this alternative application. A better mouse-trap may be at hand.
Click to expand...
i meant to mention that also
sometimes it does take me a couple tries for it set in collet correctly
 
I have had KJ's Cutter for sometime now and have been rather pleased with the quality of his product....
 
BHQ said:

....i dont have a speed control , i should probably do that
so , imo, a newer better router can only improve the results
today, i made some second cuts on some shafts that had nelsonite on them
even that sticky gunk didnt load up in the fine teeth
Click to expand...

BHQ

Speed control is a must I think. I always run my HSD with low RPM's for at least 5 min and then I increase it to 75% of my intended working RPM's - UNLOADED to warm up the machine. In this way you don't kill the precision ball bearings that easily and you would have it for longer before you have to send it off for service. The bearings would adapt to the temperature and it would reduce any tension or so in the system. That was at least what my manual said :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top