UV curing system
- Thread starter ratcues
- Start date
The old reliable
http://www.uniqueinc.com/3_cue_system
http://www.uniqueinc.com/3_cue_system
Michael Webb said:
That machine is cute but I sure don't see a need for something like that. I would think it would be slower than doing one cue at a time. It takes me about 30 seconds to spray a cue and then it moves directly into the light. The cure takes less than a minute. With this machine you have to spray elsewhere then move the cue over to, then into the machine. The same light itself costs 1,300.00 from American ultra violet compared to 10 grand.
I built a lathe with a gear reduction motor that turns about 90 rpm. It is mounted on four ball bearings that act as wheels. I also built a plywood box with a sliding trap door to hold the light. The light is totally enclosed until this trap door is slid up. Then the I put a 2X6 board extending from the end of my spray booth and into this box. Now, with the lathe turning, I spray the cue, slide open the trap door, roll the lathe slowly into the box and then back out. Very little light has escaped and the cue has been sprayed a coat and hardened in about a minute and a half. I might have a 100 bucks or so in the lathe, gear reduction motor and box.
It usually takes from three to six coats with sanding in-between coats. Total time from start of spraying until last coat is done is usually around 20 to 30 minutes. I think I'll go spray one right now.
Dick
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Damn!rhncue said:
Pix pls .
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Yes...I too would be interested in seeing some pics.JoeyInCali said:Damn!
Pix pls .
Sorry Dic,
I didn't say I had one, he asked for new and or used. I didn't judge anything, just posted the link.
I didn't say I had one, he asked for new and or used. I didn't judge anything, just posted the link.
Michael Webb said:
I know that Mike. I knew you weren't pushing selling it or anything like that. Just being your helpfull self. It was just an opening to describe my outfit and kind of show how to save a lot of money if you want a U.V. outfit.
By the way, taking pictures is easy but I've never figured out how to post them.
Dick
rhncue said:
I only know how to post if I put them on my web site and supply the link. I try to let my customers post pictures if I happen to do something correctly.
Dickrhncue said:
If you'd like...pm me for my email...I'll post the pics here for you.
rhncue said:
My American Ultraviolet salesman was telling me that he had a cuemaker buy a UV setup. IIRC, I didn't recall that he meant several cuemakers have ordered equipment. Just one. This was in 2003. Maybe it was you, Dick. Do other cuemakers use American Ultraviolet?
Fred
Me and Varney are too cheap.rhncue said:
We went to Home Depot and bought flood lights.
We'd love to see your setup.
You use a waterbased spray too Dick?
It sure would be much better for the environment.
It'd make Albert Gore happy.
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I know very little about UV. How would a tanning bed compare, as far as intensity is concerned, to these systems?
Tracy
Tracy
RSB-Refugee said:
The bulb in the U.V. system is only 5" long. The temperature is higher than 1600 deg. and is the same as looking directly at an arc welder. It's probably brighter than looking directly at the Sun. When the bulb goes bad the 5" bulb costs around 300.00. It starts getting weaker after around a 1,000 hours of use but still works just need to leave the cue under for a couple more seconds.
Yes, I beleive it is a water based finish. The finish is a sort of epoxy where the catalyst is U.V. rays instead of a hardner. The finish that I use is made by a company that is the largest manufacturer of paints that go on airplanes. The heat is not what cures the finish but the U.V. rays. Companies advertize that the light only has to be directed at the finish for 2 to 4 seconds but I leave it there for about 15 seconds. One nice thing is that without the U.V. rays the finish won't set up. This means you don't need to empty or clean your gun between uses however I do clean mine about once a year whether it needs it or not. The finish is very hard and tough so rubbing out can be difficult. I'll get some pictures taken later on and get them posted.
Dick
^
Thnx a mill Dick.
Thnx a mill Dick.
To clear up a couple things
Just a couple of quick notes to clear up a couple of things...
First of all, be careful about the light you choose. Some lights will not cure some finishes. We have done over a year of research on lighting intensity, dozens of finishes, cooling the light in wait stage, and speed of travel to sell this unit. The reason this is important is because the light will not completely cure the finish, and in return the finish will not be able to be sanded and buffed to its fullest potential. There are many cuemakers that use UV finish, and then spray a clear auto finish for the last coat, because they cannot get it to buff. The light we use in our unit, is not a $1300 light, it is UV Light that is made specifically for us from American Ultraviolet. The $1300 light will not cure our finish completely, as it will not cure several finishes on the market.
We have developed a complete system, that is like all of our equipment, you unbox the unit and you will have a finished cue within a couple of hours. Also there are several people curing cues with our finish technique by brushing on the finish, not using spray at all. The UV system does cure 3 components at a time, and if you choose to spray your cues, you do have to spray them and move them to the UV unit.
Lastly, we do sell just the light, finish, and all the items you need to purchase to have a beautiful finish on your cue, not just the UV booth. If you want to know pricing, you can pm me for details.
I did not want to make this a sales pitch, but needed to clear up some myths about UV and our unit. Uv is definately something new to Cuemakers, as well as the finish world which means not a lot of information out there.
Incase you missed the link, you can check it out.
http://www.uniqueinc.com/uv_curing_system
Just a couple of quick notes to clear up a couple of things...
First of all, be careful about the light you choose. Some lights will not cure some finishes. We have done over a year of research on lighting intensity, dozens of finishes, cooling the light in wait stage, and speed of travel to sell this unit. The reason this is important is because the light will not completely cure the finish, and in return the finish will not be able to be sanded and buffed to its fullest potential. There are many cuemakers that use UV finish, and then spray a clear auto finish for the last coat, because they cannot get it to buff. The light we use in our unit, is not a $1300 light, it is UV Light that is made specifically for us from American Ultraviolet. The $1300 light will not cure our finish completely, as it will not cure several finishes on the market.
We have developed a complete system, that is like all of our equipment, you unbox the unit and you will have a finished cue within a couple of hours. Also there are several people curing cues with our finish technique by brushing on the finish, not using spray at all. The UV system does cure 3 components at a time, and if you choose to spray your cues, you do have to spray them and move them to the UV unit.
Lastly, we do sell just the light, finish, and all the items you need to purchase to have a beautiful finish on your cue, not just the UV booth. If you want to know pricing, you can pm me for details.
I did not want to make this a sales pitch, but needed to clear up some myths about UV and our unit. Uv is definately something new to Cuemakers, as well as the finish world which means not a lot of information out there.
Incase you missed the link, you can check it out.
http://www.uniqueinc.com/uv_curing_system
I'm a little confused, as usual. If you're using a UV-curable finish, then American Ultraviolet ought to have a standard off-the-shelf bulb that will cure it completely.billiardbum said:
Is your finish some mixture that makes it only pseudo UV-curable?
Fred <~~~ have UV, will travel
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The light we use in our unit, is not a $1300 light, it is UV Light that is made specifically for us from American Ultraviolet. The $1300 light will not cure our finish completely, as it will not cure several finishes on the market.Cornerman said:
My post was stating that the $1300 light will not cure all finishes, matter of fact it did not cure 1/2 of the finishes I sampled during testing. American Ultraviolet has over 12 handheld lights focused and non-focused for sale, from about $1300 - $2000. Undercuring cannot sometimes be seen, but when you go to sand or polish the cue, it will definately not have the luster you want. This is why cuemakers have given up on UV, or are spraying Auto Clear over the UV finish.
So if...........
I'm understanding you right.............if done properly and the finish is cured properly it can be buffed and will shine as good or better? than using auto coat?
billiardbum said:
I'm understanding you right.............if done properly and the finish is cured properly it can be buffed and will shine as good or better? than using auto coat?
billiardbum said:
When I got my system about 4 years ago, I talked to whom, I assume, was the owner of American Ultra-violet and the light I purchased was the one that he recommended. The first finish i used was Helor Hi-Water finish and sealers from a guy out in California. This stuff was horrible. Paul Dayton turned me onto some stuff and gave me some hints that has made life much simpler. He sprays an auto finish over the U.V. as it makes it so much easier to rub out. That is also the way I've been doing it for the past three years or so. Very easy and looks good. Last week I was rubbing out cues and I rubbed out one by accident that I hadn't yet sprayed auto clear onto and it looked just as good and was just as easy to rub out. This finish costs 105.00 a gallon and they have a sealer that works great for less than 60.00 a gallon. Maybe it's not that I have the wrong light but that you have the wrong finish. At any rate, I'm happy with my system as I'm sure your happy with yours.
Dick