Veneer question
- Thread starter macguy
- Start date
I agree with cue man about wood river. My question is were do you go for the wider or thicker venners though?
cueman said:
www.woodriverveneers.com
They have a 1-800 number - it is 1-800-875-7084. Call them if you have questions, they are more than helpful over the phone. And they shouldn't be out fishing today - its snowing in western Montana so its probably snowing in Idaho too.
John Madden
www.johnmaddencues.com
macguy said:
Chalk up another vote for Wood River. There are also some colors that I get from Prather. I would love to be able to dye my own.
Murray Tucker said:
With all the talent you have I'm sure you could do it. By the way when will the new site be up and running. I am anxious to see what you are working on and all the great cues again.
I spoke with them on the phone and took a look at their website. It seems that sycamore veneer is getting harder to get and they told me most all the cuemakers are now ordering the poplar veneer. Is there any real differance I should be aware of?cueman said:
POPLAR veneer? Poplar is a cheap soft wood. There goes the hit of veneered cues. What's next? Balsawood for veneers?macguy said:
paul fanelli
Registered
veneer
I wouldn't go so far as to call poplar "cheap" or "soft". While poplar is classified as a hardwood, it is softer than maple or sycamore. I don't think softer veneers will destroy the hit of a cue, but combined with the harder woods of a point blank, softer veneers can soften the hit of a cue by changing the resonance of the assembly. This is either a good or bad thing depending on your taste in "hit". The main problem with softer veneers is the extra care needed in finishing, since over time, the finish will tend to sink into the softer (more absorbent woods).
Wood River Veneer does have nice stuff. Constantines (on line) is another source for veneers.
Keep on turning..
paul
I wouldn't go so far as to call poplar "cheap" or "soft". While poplar is classified as a hardwood, it is softer than maple or sycamore. I don't think softer veneers will destroy the hit of a cue, but combined with the harder woods of a point blank, softer veneers can soften the hit of a cue by changing the resonance of the assembly. This is either a good or bad thing depending on your taste in "hit". The main problem with softer veneers is the extra care needed in finishing, since over time, the finish will tend to sink into the softer (more absorbent woods).
Wood River Veneer does have nice stuff. Constantines (on line) is another source for veneers.
Keep on turning..
paul
The veneers are so thin, I would think that once they are glued up with epoxy, it would not make much differance since the glue would be almost absorbed the all the way through, being that it is applied to both sides of the veneer. I may not really matter what kind of wood it is. the solidity would be about the same. I am not trying to express an opinion just brain storm a little.JoeyInCali said:
Glueing Veneers
I ues WHITE GLUE for veneers. Does anyone use EPOXY? ...JERmacguy said:
paul fanelli
Registered
veneers
I would not trust ordinary white glue to hold up over time. There are wood glues that are "weather resistant", sometimes called yellow glue...much preferable. I also don't think that most glues will fully penetrate even a thin veneer. I recall reading that veneer must be soaked with dye for hours for full penetration, so I believe glue, which is thicker than dye, will not penetrate in the short time before it sets.
paul
I would not trust ordinary white glue to hold up over time. There are wood glues that are "weather resistant", sometimes called yellow glue...much preferable. I also don't think that most glues will fully penetrate even a thin veneer. I recall reading that veneer must be soaked with dye for hours for full penetration, so I believe glue, which is thicker than dye, will not penetrate in the short time before it sets.
paul
Glueing Veneers
I agree that YELLOW glue is the way to go. I missspoke & only ment that EPOXY was NOT the ONLY glue to use for this particular job...JERpaul fanelli said:
paul fanelli said:
I think the dye is done using a vacuum chamber and it is forced through. Using a fairly thin epoxy like a West formula and the veneer being so thin and coted on both sides, it may very well almost penetrate all the way through. Enough so that the type of wood may not matter so much. A wood like poplar only .030 or .040 thick, I think it would be almost a certainty it would go all the way through.
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BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Has anyone tried Gorilla Glue for veneers, or any application? If so, what was your impression of it? Their website is kind of cool.
Tracy
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I use a marine lay up epoxy. It takes about 1.5oz for 16 veneers (4pt. 4 veneer cue). After 24 hrs. in the press they come out perfectly flat and so stiff you can hardly bend them.
A added bonus is that since they are impregnated with the epoxy they are stain resistant. Comes in handy when using white veneers next to nasty wood like cocobolo or rosewood.
I did use yellow glue before I started doing true mitered veneers. I would glue on one veneer at a time and then trim flush and repeat. What a pain in the A
that was.
Kevin Lindstrom said:
I think it is more luck than talent but thanks for the vote of confidence.
I don't know when the site will be back up. Up untill this weekend I had only built like two cues all year. I finished up three more this weekend so now I have some pictures to put on the site.