water based finishes?

T

Trent

Banned
hey guys ive been using a water based finish i apply with a sponge brush a coat every 10-15 minutes about 10-12 coats total buy the time im done wait about a day wet sand then another day and buff and it seems like i cant get it to shime the way it should keeps getting kind of a matte look to it. any help wouild be greatly appreciated.:thumbup:

what water based finishes are out there?? maybe i dont have a good one?

i usually use epoxy and clearcote just trying some other stuff.
 
Trent said:
hey guys ive been using a water based finish i apply with a sponge brush a coat every 10-15 minutes about 10-12 coats total buy the time im done wait about a day wet sand then another day and buff and it seems like i cant get it to shime the way it should keeps getting kind of a matte look to it. any help wouild be greatly appreciated.:thumbup:

what water based finishes are out there?? maybe i dont have a good one?

i usually use epoxy and clearcote just trying some other stuff.
Click to expand...

check with chris hightower i believe he sells one type and could answer any questions you might have
 
Just a guess.....

Trent said:
hey guys ive been using a water based finish i apply with a sponge brush a coat every 10-15 minutes about 10-12 coats total buy the time im done wait about a day wet sand then another day and buff and it seems like i cant get it to shime the way it should keeps getting kind of a matte look to it. any help wouild be greatly appreciated.:thumbup:

what water based finishes are out there?? maybe i dont have a good one?

i usually use epoxy and clearcote just trying some other stuff.
Click to expand...

I don't know what water based finish you are using (I use Enduro), but I think you may be rushing things. I usually wait at least a week after I shoot my finish before I start sanding and buffing. If your finish has not fully cured, there is no way you'll be able to buff it to a shine. It will be too soft and would give you the matte look you describe when you try to buff it.
 
I've been experimenting with dipping with water based poly and found 2 things-
1) one dip & let dry over night before next dip. When I dip and dip again while the first coat is wet it gets a blue tint to it. By waiting overnight, wetsanding and dipping again (I do 3 dips total) I don't have a blue tint, looks just like auto clear coat.
2) Cure time is a minimum of 5 days before I wet sand, buff & polish. As mentioned- it's too soft to get a high shine if buffed in 1-2 days.

I like this better than spraying due to set up/clean up time, health risks and I personally get a better coating overall- nice & even. I don't rotate them at all, just dip & hang!

Good luck!
Zim
 
A couple of questions - hoping not to hijack this thread though:

Bill,
Where do you get Enduro? I'm using the HP Polyurethane Gloss, but Woodcraft doesn't seem to carry the "professional" line of General Finishes products.

Zim,
Does your dip tube become your storage container between finish sessions? Do you simply cap the tube and then give it a good shake to mix before you dip the next one? Or something different?

Thanks

Gary
 
GEBrown said:
A couple of questions - hoping not to hijack this thread though:

Zim,
Does your dip tube become your storage container between finish sessions? Do you simply cap the tube and then give it a good shake to mix before you dip the next one? Or something different?

Thanks

Gary
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a storage container, I have a threaded cap on it! I have an old shaft that I use as a stirring stick before I dip!
Zim
 
I found a new finish called Pellucid. I brush it on, a little smell but doesn't drive you out of the room. Non mix automotive clear coat. I guess alot of guitar makers use it because it is self leveling.
 
bob_bushka said:
I found a new finish called Pellucid. I brush it on, a little smell but doesn't drive you out of the room. Non mix automotive clear coat. I guess alot of guitar makers use it because it is self leveling.
Click to expand...

I have never tried but hear it is very good. If someone wants to google it for information the correct spelling is
PELUCIDE
 
Thanks for the link. Being that it is a POR15 product you should be able to get it locally from a auto paint supplier that caters to restoration shops. I have used POR15 before with good results. Might have to give this stuff a try.

Larry
 
Zims Rack said:
I've been experimenting with dipping with water based poly and found 2 things-
1) one dip & let dry over night before next dip. When I dip and dip again while the first coat is wet it gets a blue tint to it. By waiting overnight, wetsanding and dipping again (I do 3 dips total) I don't have a blue tint, looks just like auto clear coat.
2) Cure time is a minimum of 5 days before I wet sand, buff & polish. As mentioned- it's too soft to get a high shine if buffed in 1-2 days.

I like this better than spraying due to set up/clean up time, health risks and I personally get a better coating overall- nice & even. I don't rotate them at all, just dip & hang!

Good luck!
Zim
Click to expand...

Zim,
Any particular brand or type? I'm interested in dipping also. Tired of a batch of epoxy not hardening properly and having to strip it:angry:
Thanks,
Dave
 
Enduro Poly

I've been spraying Enduro Poly for over 15 years now and think the product is great. I use the gloss with a crosslinker after a thin coat of epoxy. Can't get a better shine than that. If you use too many coats of any water bourne finish it will turn blue or pink, actually looking hazy or milky, hence giving a look as if it is dull. Too many coats and it will not look shiny.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top