WD-40 As A Shaft Finishing Sealer ????

WheatCues said:
I have been experimenting around with applying a small amount of WD-40 as a finishing sealer before burning in a little cuesilk in as the finishing touch for the last few weeks...

Oddly enough I have had surprisingly consistant results !

Has anyone else tried WD-40 long term, if so has there been any unusual side effects, or are you as satisified as I am with the results ????

Just curious to hear your responses regarding yet one more useful application for WD-40...


- Eddie Wheat

When I was rebuilding engines, I was warned never to use WD-40 as it was acidic and would pit the block.
I think it would break down the fiber in woods and swell the grain.
It is a penatrant. not just a lubricant.
I'd say no!

Jayman.
 
dave sutton said:
silicon spray is superior. WE-40 breaks down oil after time. I don't use it for anything. Period.
You better not have any silicone spray in your shop.
Joey~Wonders what is wrong with sanding sealer~
 
Bill the Cat said:
Just curious. What are the "far superior products"?

for rust penetration PB Blaster gives WD the 7 out :D

for lubricating purposes, like someone else mentioned silicone spray is way better.

And none of 'em will be on my shaft!:cool:
 
I dont think it was designed as a penatrant or a lubricant. Although it will work for those things in a pinch. As the story goes... the WD stands for water displacement and it was the inventors 40th try. So it will keep rust off of things temporarily. Long ago, it was
the only product i knew of that you could dry your ignition points out with if you got them wet at the car wash.
 
JoeyInCali said:
You better not have any silicone spray in your shop.
Joey~Wonders what is wrong with sanding sealer~


My opinion, your right on. That's where It all starts, and should be universal. What ever happens after the seal cote, depends on the person, but the base should be some kind of sanding sealer to seal the pores off, even if the top cote is knocked off for playing surface purposes, atleast the pores are sealed off. I'm no master builder like some of the fine people here, I just do It for fun & hobby, but get My share of shaft work through the repair side, so I've cleaned alot of shafts over the years. and It's easy to tell when the pores weren't sealed well. If they are sealed well, Then It's not only easier to clean the chalk out, but It's less wear on the shaft in doing so. I have a couple of tricks for lifting the chalk out of the pores without sanding too much to open them up, but ocasionally I get one that seems like It's never been sealed. Even that or someone didn't clean the shaft well and sealed over the chalk. I've seen both senerios. I've had shafts that were as dirty as could be though, some maybe even as old 40 years or better, but cleaned up easily because they were sealed with some sort of sanding sealer, probably the same type as some of us use now days. JMHO
 
This is the kind of feedback that I was looking for !

Once again... thanks to all of you you has taking the time to share your insight and different perspectives on this experimental issue !!!

I can clearly see that I am wasting my time trying to incorperate WD-40 as a shaft sealer, so this idea is SCRAPPED !

As you can see... I'm not afraid to experiment and are always trying to come up with newer ways to attain optimum results... some of them work and some don't !

Thinking outside the box is a neccessity for me !


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
 
WheatCues said:
Once again... thanks to all of you you has taking the time to share your insight and different perspectives on this experimental issue !!!

I can clearly see that I am wasting my time trying to incorperate WD-40 as a shaft sealer, so this idea is SCRAPPED !

As you can see... I'm not afraid to experiment and are always trying to come up with newer ways to attain optimum results... some of them work and some don't !

Thinking outside the box is a neccessity for me !


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

Experimenting is the crux for cue making and repair. I am experimenting on different techniques and materials constantly. He who has a way of doing something and never tries to find a better way is just cheating his customers and just stagnates as others pass him by.

Dick
 
fugdbdt said:
I dont think it was designed as a penatrant or a lubricant. Although it will work for those things in a pinch. As the story goes... the WD stands for water displacement and it was the inventors 40th try. So it will keep rust off of things temporarily. Long ago, it was
the only product i knew of that you could dry your ignition points out with if you got them wet at the car wash.

Huh??

100_3164 (Medium).JPG
 
clean oil and powder -works great

wd-40 is fish oil and it attracks dirt. ( try this couple drops of motor oil with a little baby powder ,and friction- spin it it will heat up. and protect the wood and give it shine. Fro Richard Black bag of tricks. mark
 
WheatCues said:
Thinking outside the box is a neccessity for me !
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

WD40 fumes will definitely assist in getting "outside the box."

Keep up the innovative and unique contributions to cuemaking!!
 
HollyWood said:
wd-40 is fish oil and it attracks dirt. ( try this couple drops of motor oil with a little baby powder ,and friction- spin it it will heat up. and protect the wood and give it shine. Fro Richard Black bag of tricks. mark

First, I hope you'r just kidding?
All oils will will capture and hold dirt. thats why it is used to filter air.
IE: an oil bath air cleaner.
second, baby powder absorbs water. so a wet dirty shaft is richard blacks idea of good cuemaking?
I dont think he's near the top of the list as cuemakers go, but i doubt he'd do that.
silicone is still much better, but if you are applying a finish to a cue its the worst thing ever to have around you'r work area.

Jayman.
 
jayman said:
First, I hope you'r just kidding?
All oils will will capture and hold dirt. thats why it is used to filter air.
IE: an oil bath air cleaner.
second, baby powder absorbs water. so a wet dirty shaft is richard blacks idea of good cuemaking?
I dont think he's near the top of the list as cuemakers go, but i doubt he'd do that.
silicone is still much better, but if you are applying a finish to a cue its the worst thing ever to have around you'r work area.

Jayman.
Someone who spins a shafts with MOTOR OIL and appling pressure ( heat ) is nuts.
It's flammable.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Someone who spins a shafts with MOTOR OIL and appling pressure ( heat ) is nuts.
It's flammable.

At least when they pour water on it to put it out it will soak it up like a sponge.:rolleyes:

Jayman.
 
Hollywood?????????

Me thinks you jest. Nobody I mean no body has ever used motor oil on their shaft. On second thought maybe one or two have an I'd say Richard Black is not one of them. Just incase I want to try this what do you suggest straight 30W or 10W40. Please reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pinocchio
 
I have a suspicion Richard Black is laughing at anyone who believed him when ( if he did ) told that.
Kinda like Danny DeLiberto who told one dude the reason why Efren shot so well. HE said it was Efren's eyes. They were great. The reason was he ate worms.
Yup, that dude believed it and started eating worms.
 
i like to use used Motor oil best.the blacker the better.

i have seen Jimmy Reid take a brand new cue and rub dirt into the shaft wood.he grabbed a handful of dirt and strted rubbing it into the pores.
 
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