weight bolts

bbb

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IM NOT A CUE MAKER OR A CUE COLLECTOR( not sure this:embarrassed2: or this :smile: should be added:D)
is a weight bolt a "fudge factor " for a cue maker"
is a cue made with the balance point you want without a weight bolt a "better " cue????
would like to know
:smile:
 
weight bolts: cheating?

I'm interested in the range of opinion you get in this one.
Some feel that no weight bolt is the ultimate since all the weight is comprised of wood, which is resonant.
Others think that by concentrating the weight at the ends of the butt, the increased moments of inertia help the cue stroke straight.
Still others think the weight should be concentrated at the center, since it's, you know, the center.
And still others believe that any added weight should be at the vibrational nodes.
There are probably plenty of other theories; these are just a few opinions I've heard from various cuemakers.
I've tried them all, but since wood is what it is (inconsistent), it's a difficult thing to study, and I was never able to reach any conclusion as to whether one is really "better".
I certainly wouldn't call adding weights any kind of "crutch" though.
I do most of my tuning with the weight of my core, but I don't hesitate to add what I need at the front and rear ends of the butt to get the balance I want for that particular cue.
I know there are a couple guys on here who have strong opinions about this and I can't wait to hear what they have to say.

Robin Snyder
 
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I am not a cue maker, but find its easier to adjust the weight to your years of playing versus buying or having a new cue made to fit your style.

Case in point... About 15 years ago I played with a weight of 20 until I dislocated my shoulder. Since then I play with 18.5-19 for comfort. I know its not much but after a few hours of playing it made a world of difference.
 
I believe it was Homer Simpson that said, "Mmmmmm... Fudge." :)

I personally don't like the feel of a cue that has a bunch of weight in the ass end. I prefer the weight distributed along the length of the cue. So, before building the cue, I figure out what the cue will weigh without the weight bolt based only on the weight of the wood and inlays. I use that information to determine the weight of the A-joint connecting screw, which can help move weight forward if need be. Finally, I use the weight bolts into which the bumper machine screw attaches, so all of my cues have weight bolts for two reasons: (1) to achieve the target weight for the customer, and (2) to attach the bumper to.

I build all my cues with a 5-inch deep threaded weight bolt hole so the weight can be changed easily if the customer changes their mind later. Yes, a drastic change in weight can significantly affect the balance point of the cue, but whaddya gonna do? If the customer orders the cue at 19 oz., but later wants it 22 oz. am I going to say, "No, you can't do that cuz it'll screw up the balance, so I'll have to make you a new cue."?

As far as the resonance of the cue, moment of inertia, and vibrational nodes - I don't have the first freaking clue about those. My theory on cue building is like a microwave: I have no idea how it works, but I can use it.
 
Increasing the weight of the cue in any manner will increase its inertia. Personally, I like the cue to have as small a bolt as possible in the butt. I like the weight to be spread out as much as possible.
 
A weight bolt in my opinion is only a good thing if it is not real heavy. Those who add 3 ounces to the back end with a weight bolt produce cues that are too back heavy for my taste. Those who just vary it an ounce or so are within good playing balance normally.
 
I added a third of an ounce of lead to my own playing cue,it made a world of difference in feel and cueball action.
IMo cues also have a sweet spot weight .
 
I think people have a misconception about adding weight. A lot depends on where you add it. My weight bolts, if needed, are added 12" into the butt of the cue. Typically, it is where a player would hold the cue. It is a neutral add, not forward or back weight.

Weight bolts with heads are added to the butt cap giving it a back-heavy feel.

Both are desired by different players.
 
weights

I think people have a misconception about adding weight. A lot depends on where you add it. My weight bolts, if needed, are added 12" into the butt of the cue. Typically, it is where a player would hold the cue. It is a neutral add, not forward or back weight.

I do the same thing for those who want the weight to be adjustable, but usually if I need to add weight, it goes behind the joint screw and/or at the very rear. I can get both weight and balance just as I want by this method.

Robin Snyder
 
IM NOT A CUE MAKER OR A CUE COLLECTOR( not sure this:embarrassed2: or this :smile: should be added:D)
is a weight bolt a "fudge factor " for a cue maker"
is a cue made with the balance point you want without a weight bolt a "better " cue????
would like to know
:smile:


What is a weight bolt used for
 
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