What are 10 or less rules you would give to a player learning 14.1?

Ky Boy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am learning to play straight pool and have often time used it as a practice game. But I would like to learn to navigate the rack much better, look for patterns, play the correct shot, etc.

So, for those of you who play it well I was wondering what rules you would give someone just learning that would help increase high run by solving rack problems.

Gary
 
1) Practice the opening break shot

2) Learn the safety play principles

3) When you're running the balls:

a) Clear the rails sooner rather than later
b) Unblock pockets by removing balls that block the path of multiple balls into the same pocket
c) On average, try to clear the balls below the break shot sooner rather than later
d) On average, address clusters as early as possible, as shape will be harder to obtain later in the rack

4) practice all the standard break shots

5) avoid playing short side position if you can
 
This question brought to mind George Fels' "Whenever Possibles"


"Mastering Pool" by George Fels
Contents:
Preface
1 Advanced Straight Pool
2 Advanced Eight-Ball
3 Advanced Nine-Ball
4 Advanced One-Pocket
Index

This following excerpt is from pp 22-24 (the straight pool section)
beginning at paragraph 7 of the sub-section 'Sequence'. GF's "Mastering
Pool" (1977) morphed into "Advanced Pool" (1995). This same excerpt is
on pp 39-41 in that one.

*****
Any game that depends on *improvisation* to the extent that pool does
would seem to defy rules of thumb. Still, we'll begin with some
generalities, and proceed to examine just how often those generalities
apply.

I believe that the underlying concept of straight pool sequence is that
*whenever possible* - and those are two terribly important words - you
should strive to do whatever's easiest.

Now that in itself represents a gross over-simplification. So let's
take a closer look at the statement as it applies to straight pool, and
what it really means.

1) It means that you don't hit the cue ball hard when you can accomplish
the same objectives hitting it soft. Most of what you've already read
in these pages talks to that.

2) It means that you don't apply English to the cue ball when you can
accomplish the same thing hitting center ball. Pete Margo of New
Jersey, one of the game's premier players, even states the case
geographically: "Out East, we play center ball, and leave all the fancy
English to the Midwest players." I don't know how he documents that,
but it's unarguable that the world's best straight pool is played in the
East, so don't be a stubborn Midwesterner. I think the operative word
in Margo's statement is *fancy*. English has its place in the game, but
you employ it when it's *functional*, not because it's more
aesthetically pleasing, or you're more comfortable hitting the ball that
way, or (shudder) you took a guess.

3) It means that *whenever possible* (well, I told you they were
important words), *you don't move a second object ball that is already
pocketable, after sinking the one you called*. Think about that. It
sounds elementary, but it has more to do with cutting the game's men
from its boys than I could ever describe to you in words. Just watch
the next pool game you see, and take note of how often the players
scuttle their own ships by moving balls unnecessarily, even if
accidentally. Master the knack of not doing that, and I guarantee you
that you game will improve by a conservative guess of 50 percent, likely
even more. *Please* learn this.

4) It means that *whenever possible* (w. p.), you don't choose cue ball
routes that require your driving or *forcing* the cue ball, as opposed
to rolling it, someplace.

5) It means that w. p., you don't drive the cue ball to a rail when you
can get it to an advantageous place without using a rail.

6) It means that w. p., you don't employ two-rail routes where one-rail
routes will get the job done.

7) It means that w. p., you don't employ three-rail routes where
two-rail (or, sometimes one-rail) routes will do.

8) It means that w. p., you provide yourself with a second shot that you
can count on as part of all your mid-rack break shots. This is the
exact same principle as the Safety Valve pass in football. I'm not
talking about the specific shots we just discussed, of course, but their
smaller brothers and cousins that you use to separate (a good word)
smaller-than-fourteen-ball clusters. We'll get back to this.

9) It means that w. p., we position ourselves to shoot at balls on or
near the rails early in our sequence. I have to be out-front enough to
credit all the pool authors who preceded me for this point, too; it's
mentioned in just about all the beginners' books. This time around, I
want to give you the *why* behind that tip, and show you where it fits
in the scheme of things.

Balls on or near the rails represent two potential sources of trouble:
They may block routes that you need to move your cue ball efficiently;
and they may also occupy areas into which you may need to drive more
object balls on your subsequent break shots. In that case, you only end
up creating more miniclusters along the rail, causing you to interrupt
the sequence you originally planned and execute more break shots.
Remember, the fewer times your cue ball is required to move secondary
object balls, the better for you.

Don't worry about remembering all of this. Nor will you have to carry
my book around the table with you as though it were some kind of pilots'
checklist. Take my word for it, experience and confidence will
eventually cause all these considerations to come to you spontaneously,
and in milliseconds. While you're still learning to put these concepts
to work, your play might slow up some; but once you see that these are
really the things you need to know, they'll automatically become part of
your game.

Now, as to all those "Whenever Possibles": What makes the game of pool
so intriguing and infinite is the frequency with which it will deny you
the chance to take those simplifying steps. You will be forced to
violate every single one of w. p.'s 1 through 9, and plenty of times,
too. When you are required to do that, your success will depend on how
much *control* you can retain over all the variables that confront you
at that point. What the very maximum in control will do for you is that
it will let you resume your simplifying process at the earliest
opportunity. What you never want to do, in this or any pool game, is
guess. I've said it before: The player who obtains the most
certainties for himself is the player who figures to win.
George Fels
 
1) Practice the opening break shot

2) Learn the safety play principles

3) When you're running the balls:

a) Clear the rails sooner rather than later
b) Unblock pockets by removing balls that block the path of multiple balls into the same pocket
c) On average, try to clear the balls below the break shot sooner rather than later
d) On average, address clusters as early as possible, as shape will be harder to obtain later in the rack

4) practice all the standard break shots

5) avoid playing short side position if you can



Thank you, Sir!

Very good info and very much appreciated!

Gary
 
This question brought to mind George Fels' "Whenever Possibles"


"Mastering Pool" by George Fels
Contents:
Preface
1 Advanced Straight Pool
2 Advanced Eight-Ball
3 Advanced Nine-Ball
4 Advanced One-Pocket
Index

This following excerpt is from pp 22-24 (the straight pool section)
beginning at paragraph 7 of the sub-section 'Sequence'. GF's "Mastering
Pool" (1977) morphed into "Advanced Pool" (1995). This same excerpt is
on pp 39-41 in that one.

*****
Any game that depends on *improvisation* to the extent that pool does
would seem to defy rules of thumb. Still, we'll begin with some
generalities, and proceed to examine just how often those generalities
apply.

I believe that the underlying concept of straight pool sequence is that
*whenever possible* - and those are two terribly important words - you
should strive to do whatever's easiest.

Now that in itself represents a gross over-simplification. So let's
take a closer look at the statement as it applies to straight pool, and
what it really means.

1) It means that you don't hit the cue ball hard when you can accomplish
the same objectives hitting it soft. Most of what you've already read
in these pages talks to that.

2) It means that you don't apply English to the cue ball when you can
accomplish the same thing hitting center ball. Pete Margo of New
Jersey, one of the game's premier players, even states the case
geographically: "Out East, we play center ball, and leave all the fancy
English to the Midwest players." I don't know how he documents that,
but it's unarguable that the world's best straight pool is played in the
East, so don't be a stubborn Midwesterner. I think the operative word
in Margo's statement is *fancy*. English has its place in the game, but
you employ it when it's *functional*, not because it's more
aesthetically pleasing, or you're more comfortable hitting the ball that
way, or (shudder) you took a guess.

3) It means that *whenever possible* (well, I told you they were
important words), *you don't move a second object ball that is already
pocketable, after sinking the one you called*. Think about that. It
sounds elementary, but it has more to do with cutting the game's men
from its boys than I could ever describe to you in words. Just watch
the next pool game you see, and take note of how often the players
scuttle their own ships by moving balls unnecessarily, even if
accidentally. Master the knack of not doing that, and I guarantee you
that you game will improve by a conservative guess of 50 percent, likely
even more. *Please* learn this.

4) It means that *whenever possible* (w. p.), you don't choose cue ball
routes that require your driving or *forcing* the cue ball, as opposed
to rolling it, someplace.

5) It means that w. p., you don't drive the cue ball to a rail when you
can get it to an advantageous place without using a rail.

6) It means that w. p., you don't employ two-rail routes where one-rail
routes will get the job done.

7) It means that w. p., you don't employ three-rail routes where
two-rail (or, sometimes one-rail) routes will do.

8) It means that w. p., you provide yourself with a second shot that you
can count on as part of all your mid-rack break shots. This is the
exact same principle as the Safety Valve pass in football. I'm not
talking about the specific shots we just discussed, of course, but their
smaller brothers and cousins that you use to separate (a good word)
smaller-than-fourteen-ball clusters. We'll get back to this.

9) It means that w. p., we position ourselves to shoot at balls on or
near the rails early in our sequence. I have to be out-front enough to
credit all the pool authors who preceded me for this point, too; it's
mentioned in just about all the beginners' books. This time around, I
want to give you the *why* behind that tip, and show you where it fits
in the scheme of things.

Balls on or near the rails represent two potential sources of trouble:
They may block routes that you need to move your cue ball efficiently;
and they may also occupy areas into which you may need to drive more
object balls on your subsequent break shots. In that case, you only end
up creating more miniclusters along the rail, causing you to interrupt
the sequence you originally planned and execute more break shots.
Remember, the fewer times your cue ball is required to move secondary
object balls, the better for you.

Don't worry about remembering all of this. Nor will you have to carry
my book around the table with you as though it were some kind of pilots'
checklist. Take my word for it, experience and confidence will
eventually cause all these considerations to come to you spontaneously,
and in milliseconds. While you're still learning to put these concepts
to work, your play might slow up some; but once you see that these are
really the things you need to know, they'll automatically become part of
your game.

Now, as to all those "Whenever Possibles": What makes the game of pool
so intriguing and infinite is the frequency with which it will deny you
the chance to take those simplifying steps. You will be forced to
violate every single one of w. p.'s 1 through 9, and plenty of times,
too. When you are required to do that, your success will depend on how
much *control* you can retain over all the variables that confront you
at that point. What the very maximum in control will do for you is that
it will let you resume your simplifying process at the earliest
opportunity. What you never want to do, in this or any pool game, is
guess. I've said it before: The player who obtains the most
certainties for himself is the player who figures to win.
George Fels


Thank you for the great information!

Gary
 
Great comments from all.

I might add that reading as much about 14.1 and especially watching the pro's play will go a long way! Lessons from a seasoned 14.1 player wouldn't hurt!!

Along with practice, practice, practice!!!
 
So, for those of you who play it well I was wondering what rules you would give someone just learning that would help increase high run by solving rack problems.
Gary

Begin building your skill at recognizing and executing dead balls imbedded in the rack. Ever shoot a secondary break shot, and while the OB goes in, so does another unanticipated ball? Wouldn't it have been useful to have seen the dead ball prior to your shot choice? Reading for dead balls is a skill that is built up with time and observation. Advantages of this skill are, but not limited to, the following:

>DBs can be used to spread clusters.
>DBS are a good for tactics as you progress toward clearing the balls. I consider DBs as somewhat of a "Get out of jail free" card. Once spotted, I might advantage by clearing junk around the rack before shooting it. Or, sometimes it allows me to go up table, pocket any stragglers, while knowing I have a nice recovery plan in case I mess up.
>DB recognition can also be defensive - never let one go to your opponent - learn when one is wired
> many DBs can be shot from various angles of attack. Sometime this aspect can be leveraged to the situation on the table.
>like combination shots, never just fire them in. Take a pause, consider speed (very important) and where the balls will likely go once the DB is shot. IOW, always consider post shot position when possible. Additionally, speed is often important to successfully pocket the shot. Some DB formations need more speed than others. The number of balls involved and their respective spacing does determine the minimum or maximum CB speed.
>I won't now go into the physics of how lines or groups of balls interact, but again emphasize the importance of time and observation to develop your DB recognition. When building the skill to read for these opportunities, the key I will provide today is first and foremost, recognize which ball moves FIRST. It could be the ball you strike or it could be one three balls down the line. Unanticipated object ball movement can spoil these shots and is often the reason they fail to drop. This skill is both art and science.
> If taken to a sophisticated level, the skill will indeed distinguish your 14.1. >Good luck with your newly chosen game.
 
So, for those of you who play it well I was wondering what rules you would give someone just learning that would help increase high run by solving rack problems.
Gary

Begin building your skill at recognizing and executing dead balls imbedded in the rack. Ever shoot a secondary break shot, and while the OB goes in, so does another unanticipated ball? Wouldn't it have been useful to have seen the dead ball prior to your shot choice? Reading for dead balls is a skill that is built up with time and observation. Advantages of this skill are, but not limited to, the following:

>DBs can be used to spread clusters.
>DBS are a good for tactics as you progress toward clearing the balls. I consider DBs as somewhat of a "Get out of jail free" card. Once spotted, I might advantage by clearing junk around the rack before shooting it. Or, sometimes it allows me to go up table, pocket any stragglers, while knowing I have a nice recovery plan in case I mess up.
>DB recognition can also be defensive - never let one go to your opponent - learn when one is wired
> many DBs can be shot from various angles of attack. Sometime this aspect can be leveraged to the situation on the table.
>like combination shots, never just fire them in. Take a pause, consider speed (very important) and where the balls will likely go once the DB is shot. IOW, always consider post shot position when possible. Additionally, speed is often important to successfully pocket the shot. Some DB formations need more speed than others. The number of balls involved and their respective spacing does determine the minimum or maximum CB speed.
>I won't now go into the physics of how lines or groups of balls interact, but again emphasize the importance of time and observation to develop your DB recognition. When building the skill to read for these opportunities, the key I will provide today is first and foremost, recognize which ball moves FIRST. It could be the ball you strike or it could be one three balls down the line. Unanticipated object ball movement can spoil these shots and is often the reason they fail to drop. This skill is both art and science.
> If taken to a sophisticated level, the skill will indeed distinguish your 14.1. >Good luck with your newly chosen game.


Rabbits! Rabbits (or bunnies) always jump in the hole. So I hunt them down like Elmer Fudd.

Great thread and advice, thanks!
 
Thanks for the great advice!

Recently, I have wondered why there are so many rotation tourneys being played with all the racking issues, rules issues, bringing the integrity of the players in quesition, etc etc...When all this can be solved by playing either straight pool or one pocket.

For me, watching a player run ball after ball is just as exciting as or maybe more than watching a rotation game. Or watching a one pocket game between 2 players or play strategy and move well.

Straight pool offers everything I think.

How long (on average) does it take to become a 100 ball runner?


Gary
 
Can you give any advices for playing straight pool on slow cloth?

I'm practicing on a slow table, and many time I have to force the CB, and as result miss the pocket.
I'm new in 14.1, but manage to have a "record" run of 20 balls. I tried to play on a Simonis cloth, it-s more easy than on a slow cloth.
 
How long (on average) does it take to become a 100 ball runner?

no one can answer that, because most never get there, but if you have lots of natural talent AND play everyday for years, you might get there.
 
no one can answer that, because most never get there, but if you have lots of natural talent AND play everyday for years, you might get there.

Really! I thought anyone who played long enough would run 100.

I am playing on a brand new 9ft. Diamond Pro Am with 4.5" pockets and my goal is to run 100 by end of year. And I just started playing the game last week.:eek:

Now, rethinking it my goal may be a bit lofty. But no matter, I always like a challenge. Hopefully, I can get it on video when it happens!



Gary
 
no one can answer that, because most never get there, but if you have lots of natural talent AND play everyday for years, you might get there.

I played for many many years and never ran a 100.
I always knew I shot good enough but it always eluded me .
I asked a couple top players if I can run 50-60-70-or 80 why can't I run a 100
Simple answer don't miss routine shots and # 1 SELECT THE CORRECT PATTERN
imho
OP go to accu stats and buy some 14.1 player reviews I would rec Oliver Ortmann v Earl Herring 150 and out he explains it pretty good
Good Luck and welcome to the best game ever !
 
1. Get Grady Matthews instructional video from Accustats from straight pool...
Don't remember name but it have a lot of knowledge to different break shots..

2. Learn stun through shot.

3. Make habit to take on "right shot" even you might miss it.
Right shot is the shot you need make to continue your run.
(Edit: example of right shot can be found at 5:40 from my signature YouTube link.
10-ball is the right shot even it's little awkward angle.
1-ball could be made 1st but it's better to be leaved to insurance ball)
If you miss it try harder next time. Don't make excuses.

4. Try play position to many balls if possible.
If not try think how you can maximize your margin of error. Efren is master of that skill.

5. Focus just enough for situation.
Don't overdo it or your brain get too tired to do big runs.

6. Never give up. And get more knowledge.
 
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I played for many many years and never ran a 100.
I always knew I shot good enough but it always eluded me .
I asked a couple top players if I can run 50-60-70-or 80 why can't I run a 100
Simple answer don't miss routine shots and # 1 SELECT THE CORRECT PATTERN
imho
OP go to accu stats and buy some 14.1 player reviews I would rec Oliver Ortmann v Earl Herring 150 and out he explains it pretty good
Good Luck and welcome to the best game ever !

Same here. I ran 91 twice and also a 90 but never 100 back when 14.1 was the game I played most of the time. Probably had a couple of hundred runs of over 50, but 100 is tougher than it sounds.

To the original poster --- keep the faith. Maybe you can get there.

And yes, there's no substitute for watching and studying the play of the best.
 
Gary, welcome to the world of 14.1! I didn't know you were interested or we could have played before. I was on a straight pool kick for a few months last year where that is all I practiced. My high run is 47, with my best total being a 93 in 3 consecutive innings.

It is an incredibly difficult game, despite what would seem like relative simplicity. I haven't put much time into pool this year, but now I have to practice up on my 14.1 so we can get together.

I have two Jim Rempe DVDs with straight pool instruction that I can loan you. For most they are considered the best video instruction available on the game.




.
 
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Really! I thought anyone who played long enough would run 100.

If by long enough you mean 40-60 hours a week for several years, then this is probably 80% true. Unless you have a certain disability everyone who puts in that much time will more then likely run 100.

I am playing on a brand new 9ft. Diamond Pro Am with 4.5" pockets and my goal is to run 100 by end of year. And I just started playing the game last week.:eek:

If you are an A player allready (meaning you often run several racks of 8/9/10 ball, then a break of 50 should be do-able. However,
running 100 is quite something else.


Now, rethinking it my goal may be a bit lofty. But no matter, I always like a challenge. Hopefully, I can get it on video when it happens!

Gary

Running 100 is really only reserved for very good players, most will simply never get there.
My high run is 44 and I think I am a pretty decent player, most every night I play I will run
a 2 or 3-pack of whatever game we are playing.

gr. Dave
 
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Just 2: 1) Always end your inning on a safe and not a miss and 2) Be honest with yourself and learn to play within your ability in order to execute rule#1 perfectly. The rest is easily learned.
 
A principle I left out:

When running the table, it is, more often than not, incorrect to leave balls along the top rail until late in the rack. These balls can get in the way of building a solid end pattern.
 
There is a principle that you can master a craft in 10,000 hours of directed practice. 100,000 hours makes you the best that ever was.
 
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