What are the pitfalls to buying older tables?

Texdance

Texdance

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What are the repair pitfalls to buying older tables, I mean tables from the 60s and later, good used $2500-and-under tables?

The savings incurred when buying an old table can be eaten up by expensive repairs and rail replacements, which makes the used purchase not so great a choice.

I have found a a couple of lesser known but quality brands, a 1962 AE Schmidt Comet 9-ft pool table, and a Saunier-Wilhelm 9-ft., and several GC I, II an III tables. Then there are the many Olhausen, Valley, and other tables which may or may not be the type of quality construction which leads to playability.

I believe Gold Crown I and possible II used rail rubber which is no longer available, and could be expensive to replace properly, but that rumor is about the extent of my knowledge.
 
Table

If your after a older table for looks sake then expect to spend some money to get it up to par. If not I suggest you get a brunswick GC 3 or newer.
I have a GCIV "4" for sale at $2000.00. If interested.



Rob.M
 
Shipping costs from IA to north Texas would eat up my budget big time I suspect.

Is there any feature of the GC IV (or II or I) that people normally upgrade when they buy one nowadays? I am thinking rail rubber, at $125+ for the parts, and whatever the cost for the installation.

I don't budget for table cosmetic refurbishment because the table will be used out in my workshop, where no one goes except me, my dog, and some pool buddies.
 
Most of them older tables you're talking about are priced at a worn out price as well, which is why they're available to be bought. The problem is, buying them from a so called mechanic that tells you everything is great on them, but after you get the table, and pay for it, that's when you find out other wise.
 
If you can take your time there are deals to be had out there. I have a GCII that was bought new from a Brunswick dealer back in the early 70s for private home use. The cloth on it now is the 3rd cloth it ever had in its life. I bought it for $300.00 and after having the sub-rails modified for current cushion profiles, Artemis cushions, and Simonis 860 I am still in it for a total of less than $2k.
 
fastone371 said:
If you can take your time there are deals to be had out there. I have a GCII that was bought new from a Brunswick dealer back in the early 70s for private home use. The cloth on it now is the 3rd cloth it ever had in its life. I bought it for $300.00 and after having the sub-rails modified for current cushion profiles, Artemis cushions, and Simonis 860 I am still in it for a total of less than $2k.
Click to expand...

So the sub-rail modification and Artemis cushions cost $1500 or a little more? Was it unplayable before, due to worn out cushions, or were the sub-rail mods and Artemis cushions an upgrade for your personal satisfaction?

Unfortunately, if I am to have 9 foot table, it will have to be on the cheap. That's just a reality of being retired on a fixed income much lower than the income of my working years.

Is it an impossible dream to find a playable-for-an-amateur 9 foot table for under $1000, and one which does not need the cushions replaced. I can find lots of forty and fifty year old name brand tables for $550-$750. But if almost all tables of that age need new cushions I can probably quit looking right now.

Is it that uncommon to just get lucky and find a 9 foot commercial grade, or upper-level home table, that only needs moving and new cloth?
 
Texdance said:
So the sub-rail modification and Artemis cushions cost $1500 or a little more? Was it unplayable before, due to worn out cushions, or were the sub-rail mods and Artemis cushions an upgrade for your personal satisfaction?

Unfortunately, if I am to have 9 foot table, it will have to be on the cheap. That's just a reality of being retired on a fixed income much lower than the income of my working years.

Is it an impossible dream to find a playable-for-an-amateur 9 foot table for under $1000, and one which does not need the cushions replaced. I can find lots of forty and fifty year old name brand tables for $550-$750. But if almost all tables of that age need new cushions I can probably quit looking right now.

Is it that uncommon to just get lucky and find a 9 foot commercial grade, or upper-level home table, that only needs moving and new cloth?
Click to expand...

There are decent tables out there that can be found, the problem is knowing what you're looking for, and what to look for. Most all the commercial pool tables available today such as the older GC's have been worked on by just about every Tom, Dick, and Harry there is over the.last 20+ years and that's problem number one. Second, a lot of so called mechanic's and retail stores are in the business of selling pool tables, and they all have a great deal waiting for the right person to come along. That person is the buyer that has cash, and don't know shit about the pool table they're buying....perfect for the seller!!! Do your self a favor, look up all the threads I've started by clicking on my screen picture, then click on my statistics tab, then click on all the threads I've started....you'll learn a lot from them about what to look for.

Glen
 
Last edited:
Thanks, RKC, I had already started looking at all of your threads.

I found a recent thread in which you say this, in reference to a gaggle of $500 9-foot Gold Crowns for sale out of some bowling center:
"RKC: The cushions on the GC 3 s failed on most of them built at that time, turning rock hard. You might want to add up another $300-$400 for that repair in your overall cost."

This is the kind of important information I might never uncover elsewhere.

Thank you, and thanks to the many others here on AZB who have tried to bring to light some often encountered used table pitfalls.
 
Any used table anyone buys.... for the most part is going to need some kind of work.
Depending on how well that person buying the table plays the game or wants the table to play.....is what the extra cost is going to be.
If someone just wants the table to play good.....and enjoy playing.....they may just get by with new cushions and new cloth when the table gets set up.
Any other work other than that would be.....having the rails done correctly.....a long with a very good table mechanic set the table up......now does someone need that.....if you want a table that plays correctly.....you spend the extra money.....or if you want bragging rights to say....hey such and such set my table up.....did the rails...and my table plays perfectly.
Now....do they really know the difference how a table should play?
Or are they just thinking cause this guy did my table it's done right.
If you really don't play well enough to know....I wouldn't waste the extra money.....now on the other hand.....if your wanting to better your game....and want a table that is going to play correctly...so you'll know how a great table set up should play....and how rail work makes a real difference in the play of a table.....then spend the money and enjoy a real playing table.
One thing you will learn....is the longer you own the table...the more you will notice what's not right about the table.....you may want to spend the money to get the right job done then.....and that's not money wasted.
Bottom line....you may love the way the table plays from the moment you get it.....time with any table will show you what you like and don't like....but set up from the start is very important.
Research something's on how to set up a table....so when someone comes in and sets the table up.....you have some idea of what needs done corretly...and some questions you can ask the guy setting the table up so you know he knows what he's doing.
Glen will post some questions people should ask their installers......then you know if that's the guy for the job.
Mark Gregory
 
The biggest pitfall I know of ( I'm not a mech, just a table owner and have bought a few tables with a friend ) is getting quality local mechanic's service at reasonable time and money.
Good luck in finding one in your local area.
 
JoeyInCali said:
The biggest pitfall I know of ( I'm not a mech, just a table owner and have bought a few tables with a friend ) is getting quality local mechanic's service at reasonable time and money.
Good luck in finding one in your local area.
Click to expand...

That's 100% correct.....and the only way your ever going to find that is....finding a mechanic or installer that takes the kind of self pride that continues to find a way of bettering themselves......most will learn some....and then it's all about the money....and how many jobs can I get through today....or I can make good money.....guys like Glen and I don't make anywhere near the money most make....cause we go over board on every table......we all could cut corners....and the owner of the table really wouldn't know until someone came to recover the table that really knew what he was doing and pointed it out to the owner.
Now don't get confused....because the number one sell of getting the job for most is telling the customers....wow look what this guy did here or I can't believe someone would do this to your table.......and that's ok.....only if they truly know how to make things right.....that's where finding the right guy to do the work on your table come in.
Guys tell customers I couldn't carry their tool box......wow....you don't even want to see their work....but they get the job.....and then I'll get the call later.....Glen's got it right onone thing for sure.....he always tells me....until people see the kind of work guys are doing on rails and tables.....is the only way their going to appreciate the work you and I do.
Like I said....ask Glen to make a list to ask the guy coming to do the work on your table.....and yes....sometimes you just don't have anyone in your area.....I guess that's why a lot of customers wait years on Glen.
Don't let me steer everyone wrong....there're some out there doing very good work....but if they spent the time on tables Glen and I do.....they would be broke like us....lol......it's not about the money for Glen and I....it's about building something better than it was from the start....and to us that's worth more than the money.
We do this kind of work cause.....well we love what we do....it's not a job to us......its a challenge.
Mark Gregory
 
J
perfectpocketz said:
That's 100% correct.....and the only way your ever going to find that is....finding a mechanic or installer that takes the kind of self pride that continues to find a way of bettering themselves......most will learn some....and then it's all about the money....and how many jobs can I get through today....or I can make good money.....guys like Glen and I don't make anywhere near the money most make....cause we go over board on every table......we all could cut corners....and the owner of the table really wouldn't know until someone came to recover the table that really knew what he was doing and pointed it out to the owner.
Now don't get confused....because the number one sell of getting the job for most is telling the customers....wow look what this guy did here or I can't believe someone would do this to your table.......and that's ok.....only if they truly know how to make things right.....that's where finding the right guy to do the work on your table come in.
Guys tell customers I couldn't carry their tool box......wow....you don't even want to see their work....but they get the job.....and then I'll get the call later.....Glen's got it right onone thing for sure.....he always tells me....until people see the kind of work guys are doing on rails and tables.....is the only way their going to appreciate the work you and I do.
Like I said....ask Glen to make a list to ask the guy coming to do the work on your table.....and yes....sometimes you just don't have anyone in your area.....I guess that's why a lot of customers wait years on Glen.
Don't let me steer everyone wrong....there're some out there doing very good work....but if they spent the time on tables Glen and I do.....they would be broke like us....lol......it's not about the money for Glen and I....it's about building something better than it was from the start....and to us that's worth more than the money.
We do this kind of work cause.....well we love what we do....it's not a job to us......its a challenge.
Mark Gregory
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, for most buyers of these old tables with Monarch cushions, they're probably better of just to replace the cushions with a K55 set as is .
Getting the rails re-profiled by most mechs will probably not make it play any better .
 
Last edited:
I wonder what percentage of people really know the difference? For the most part the guys I talk to at tournaments and league seem like they know absolutely nothing about tables. I don't know how good of players they are compared to players that can tell a difference. The players I am talking about are anywhere from BCA B to BCA Masters. Many do not even know there is a difference between Blue and Red Diamonds. Do you need to be like a pro level player to notice some of these differences? I have played on both Diamonds in 7' and 9' and I do not notice a big difference between them, is it only a subtle difference we are talking about?
 
fastone371 said:
I wonder what percentage of people really know the difference? For the most part the guys I talk to at tournaments and league seem like they know absolutely nothing about tables. I don't know how good of players they are compared to players that can tell a difference. The players I am talking about are anywhere from BCA B to BCA Masters. Many do not even know there is a difference between Blue and Red Diamonds. Do you need to be like a pro level player to notice some of these differences? I have played on both Diamonds in 7' and 9' and I do not notice a big difference between them, is it only a subtle difference we are talking about?
Click to expand...
You make some good points....and are true for the most part.
most people playing don't know the difference....and if you think about it....those same people know more about cues and tips and equipment for playing the game.
Guys like Glen and myself have been trying to help people learn and understand how tables being worked on by some that don't know how to do the right kind of work effect the play of the table .....and believe me they're starting to learn more no more.
You hear people complain about how the tables play all the time.....but it starts with the owner of the table.....if the owner is trying to save money then he's going to get that kind of job....speaking of poolroom owners.....and I hear them say....well they don't know the difference anyways.
But if you think about it....why should people spend thousands of dollars on cue and cases.....just to play on a table don't has rail cloth coming up...tables not level.....the seams are showing in the middle of the table....but they charge you the same price to play no matter how the table plays.
Until people start to demand a better playing table...why change it?
Look at all the cues sold...and guys are always saying....I love the hit of this cue or that cue don't hit that well......how could they know how a cue plays if they don't know how well a table plays?
Again...the most important piece of equipment for playing are the tables....the cloth....and the balls......how can someone know how a cue hits....with junk balls....shit cloth.....and a hack set up of the table?
Believe me....people can tell the difference between a well set up table...and cushions set right......I just put a GC4 in Johnny Archers room....and yes...I cut the sub rails off.....and the sub rails were still in very good shape.....but I wanted to use my specs...and change the bolt system....and that table plays really well.....but that's for gambles....and I told Johnny that if you don't let anyone play on the table and pay.....how will they ever learn the difference between a great plying table or other tables.
There's a major difference between a great playing table and the rest of them.
The rails are a major factor of how a table plays.....remember after all the money spent on your cues and cases.....now the only use for them is on a pool table.
I see room owners looking for the cheapest prices for table recoveries.....and get away with it....cause people *****....but keep coming back.....do I think they need to spend thousands every time they have the tables done.....no.....but they need to spend the money to find a guy that's going to do the job right...and then stick with that guy.
I did so many rooms......then get called back 2 years later.....why...because they tried saving money....letting the hack do the tables cheap a couple times....thinking well....I'll call mark back later and let him straighten out everything that the hacks screwed up.
That's why....I won't do poolroom tables anymore....sure I still have the rooms that have stayed with me for 15 years.
All in all....if guys don't better their skills doing tables.....some may never know how a very good table plays.
How do you stop the guys doing work they don't understand....just to get the job for a pay check?
Everyone wants a big time reputation for working on tables.....but don't want to do the correct work to earn that reputation....they want to go to the front of the class...without earning it.

Mark Gregory
 
perfectpocketz said:
You make some good points....and are true for the most part.
most people playing don't know the difference....and if you think about it....those same people know more about cues and tips and equipment for playing the game.
Guys like Glen and myself have been trying to help people learn and understand how tables being worked on by some that don't know how to do the right kind of work effect the play of the table .....and believe me they're starting to learn more no more.
You hear people complain about how the tables play all the time.....but it starts with the owner of the table.....if the owner is trying to save money then he's going to get that kind of job....speaking of poolroom owners.....and I hear them say....well they don't know the difference anyways.
But if you think about it....why should people spend thousands of dollars on cue and cases.....just to play on a table don't has rail cloth coming up...tables not level.....the seams are showing in the middle of the table....but they charge you the same price to play no matter how the table plays.
Until people start to demand a better playing table...why change it?
Look at all the cues sold...and guys are always saying....I love the hit of this cue or that cue don't hit that well......how could they know how a cue plays if they don't know how well a table plays?
Again...the most important piece of equipment for playing are the tables....the cloth....and the balls......how can someone know how a cue hits....with junk balls....shit cloth.....and a hack set up of the table?
Believe me....people can tell the difference between a well set up table...and cushions set right......I just put a GC4 in Johnny Archers room....and yes...I cut the sub rails off.....and the sub rails were still in very good shape.....but I wanted to use my specs...and change the bolt system....and that table plays really well.....but that's for gambles....and I told Johnny that if you don't let anyone play on the table and pay.....how will they ever learn the difference between a great plying table or other tables.
There's a major difference between a great playing table and the rest of them.
The rails are a major factor of how a table plays.....remember after all the money spent on your cues and cases.....now the only use for them is on a pool table.
I see room owners looking for the cheapest prices for table recoveries.....and get away with it....cause people *****....but keep coming back.....do I think they need to spend thousands every time they have the tables done.....no.....but they need to spend the money to find a guy that's going to do the job right...and then stick with that guy.
I did so many rooms......then get called back 2 years later.....why...because they tried saving money....letting the hack do the tables cheap a couple times....thinking well....I'll call mark back later and let him straighten out everything that the hacks screwed up.
That's why....I won't do poolroom tables anymore....sure I still have the rooms that have stayed with me for 15 years.
All in all....if guys don't better their skills doing tables.....some may never know how a very good table plays.
How do you stop the guys doing work they don't understand....just to get the job for a pay check?
Everyone wants a big time reputation for working on tables.....but don't want to do the correct work to earn that reputation....they want to go to the front of the class...without earning it.

Mark Gregory
Click to expand...
Well, the problem is when the MECHANICS can't tell the difference .:D
Mark, you think pool hall owners pay cheap to get their tables get worked on ? Not all. A lot of them pay good dollar . Unfortunately, Glen is the only really active master mech who tour the country doing tables . There is not enough of him.
When I got my table, I paid good dollar to get it set up. Only to have the cushions replaced with a K66 and the top rail's veneers started scratching my cue . That was one example where I would have been better off not getting the rail modified . There are hundreds of those mod jobs here.
How many around the country can really do these antique tables right ?
If they sent you the rails, who will set them up locally ?
 
I am getting it... an you guys here are helping me a lot.

I am not sure whether or not I could tell the playing difference between a hack rail setup or an accurate rail setup, but I think I could. I am pretty sure I know what a good recovering job looks like, both at the time the job is finished and six months later.

I bought a no-name 8 footer seven years ago and put Simonis 860 on it myself. I researched as much as I could before starting, and as a result the cloth is still fairly tight, and never a wrinkle on it, nor a wavy rail, though it is not a pro job by any stretch of the imagination.

Lucky for me the table has a solid frame and decent slate. In the past few months the head slate has come up at the seam, and there are finally some wear holes starting to form in the cloth, maybe the long cloth life is because I have only played on it a few times a month during the past seven years.

But the rails have always played short, and now I am not happy with the one, two, and three railers that I think I should come close to pocketing more often.

Back then my reading led me to believe I that I knew something about pocket angles, so a local mechanic came out and he used his portable electric miter saw to cut the rails at the angles I specified. Wow, how I managed to not turn the table into firewood is beyond me.

Thanks for all the good tips. Now I have some possibilities in mind. I plan to save up for a table that I like, and put time and money into the budget for good mechanic work, if that is required to get the table playing well.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Well, the problem is when the MECHANICS can't tell the difference .:D
Mark, you think pool hall owners pay cheap to get their tables get worked on ? Not all. A lot of them pay good dollar . Unfortunately, Glen is the only really active master mech who tour the country doing tables . There is not enough of him.
When I got my table, I paid good dollar to get it set up. Only to have the cushions replaced with a K66 and the top rail's veneers started scratching my cue . That was one example where I would have been better off not getting the rail modified . There are hundreds of those mod jobs here.
How many around the country can really do these antique tables right ?
If they sent you the rails, who will set them up locally ?
Click to expand...

I understand what your saying....and I agree with most all.
The thing is....the rails are the most important part of the table....getting someone to set the table up right is a challenge...I agree.
But most installers today can do a fair job....or even a good job.....if the rails play great and the pockets accept the balls correctly.....you way ahead of the game.......what's worse than anything is to have a bad set up...and rails that play wrong....now no installer can help you.
Trust me....there's no perfect job......just as good as the table is built is all you can set up.....but rail work helps big time.....or you wouldn't see all the threads on cushions and rails.
The best part of these threads are a lot of people are learning about their tables...and how to try and better them.....or what to have done on the table to help it play better.
Mark Gregory
 
I like and prefer the pre- 1960 all wood tables. Easier to find and cheaper. The cushions and rails get extended and changed a $300 expense if memory serves me correct! I would stay away from the veneer models and locate one of the quartersawn oak models. Drop pocket! Hood leather can redo them when and if your ready. Another 200??? So, 500 budget left to buy the table and transport. You can move it yourself to save money! I moved a 10 footer in my Yukon!

Kd
 
Last edited:
perfectpocketz said:
You make some good points....and are true for the most part.
most people playing don't know the difference....and if you think about it....those same people know more about cues and tips and equipment for playing the game.
Guys like Glen and myself have been trying to help people learn and understand how tables being worked on by some that don't know how to do the right kind of work effect the play of the table .....and believe me they're starting to learn more no more.
You hear people complain about how the tables play all the time.....but it starts with the owner of the table.....if the owner is trying to save money then he's going to get that kind of job....speaking of poolroom owners.....and I hear them say....well they don't know the difference anyways.
But if you think about it....why should people spend thousands of dollars on cue and cases.....just to play on a table don't has rail cloth coming up...tables not level.....the seams are showing in the middle of the table....but they charge you the same price to play no matter how the table plays.
Until people start to demand a better playing table...why change it?
Look at all the cues sold...and guys are always saying....I love the hit of this cue or that cue don't hit that well......how could they know how a cue plays if they don't know how well a table plays?
Again...the most important piece of equipment for playing are the tables....the cloth....and the balls......how can someone know how a cue hits....with junk balls....shit cloth.....and a hack set up of the table?
Believe me....people can tell the difference between a well set up table...and cushions set right......I just put a GC4 in Johnny Archers room....and yes...I cut the sub rails off.....and the sub rails were still in very good shape.....but I wanted to use my specs...and change the bolt system....and that table plays really well.....but that's for gambles....and I told Johnny that if you don't let anyone play on the table and pay.....how will they ever learn the difference between a great plying table or other tables.
There's a major difference between a great playing table and the rest of them.
The rails are a major factor of how a table plays.....remember after all the money spent on your cues and cases.....now the only use for them is on a pool table.
I see room owners looking for the cheapest prices for table recoveries.....and get away with it....cause people *****....but keep coming back.....do I think they need to spend thousands every time they have the tables done.....no.....but they need to spend the money to find a guy that's going to do the job right...and then stick with that guy.
I did so many rooms......then get called back 2 years later.....why...because they tried saving money....letting the hack do the tables cheap a couple times....thinking well....I'll call mark back later and let him straighten out everything that the hacks screwed up.
That's why....I won't do poolroom tables anymore....sure I still have the rooms that have stayed with me for 15 years.
All in all....if guys don't better their skills doing tables.....some may never know how a very good table plays.
How do you stop the guys doing work they don't understand....just to get the job for a pay check?
Everyone wants a big time reputation for working on tables.....but don't want to do the correct work to earn that reputation....they want to go to the front of the class...without earning it.

Mark Gregory
Click to expand...

I definitely understand what you are saying Mark. even though I did not not have you do my rails, I spoke with you but you were pretty busy and I was in a hurry, it would have killed me to go a month without my table, I still had them modified for new Artemis cushions though. I am not complaining at all about how my table plays or that I decided to have the work done. I was not going to put cheap cloth on and half assed cushions that don't fit right. Along with the rails, Simonis, and Artemis cushions I also bought 2 brand new ball sets, Centennials and Aramith Tournaments, I couldn't see using old balls on new cloth. The price of this stuff does not really bother me, pool is down right cheap compared to racing and I just like nice stuff. Is there a way you can explain how a good table should play so people can test and compare their tables? People would probably be able to justify spending the money if they could see what is not right about their tables. Bad seam jobs and dead rails are obvious, but as far as tables needing sub-rail mods that is more subjective without a baseline. I know on my table when I shoot a 3 rail shot from in front of one corner and expect QB to fall in the other corner I aim slightly past 1 diamond away from side pocket. The Red Diamond BBs up by us I have to aim almost 2 1/2 diamonds past the side pocket, just about 1 diamond from the corner pocket. That seemed real odd to me, but that was over the summer so maybe the humidity had something to do with it. Where should you aim this shot on what is considered a proper playing table? What else can you do to compare how your table plays compared to a table that plays correct? I shoot the 3 rail shot with 1/2-1 tip of running english. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
 
fastone371 said:
I definitely understand what you are saying Mark. even though I did not not have you do my rails, I spoke with you but you were pretty busy and I was in a hurry, it would have killed me to go a month without my table, I still had them modified for new Artemis cushions though. I am not complaining at all about how my table plays or that I decided to have the work done. I was not going to put cheap cloth on and half assed cushions that don't fit right. Along with the rails, Simonis, and Artemis cushions I also bought 2 brand new ball sets, Centennials and Aramith Tournaments, I couldn't see using old balls on new cloth. The price of this stuff does not really bother me, pool is down right cheap compared to racing and I just like nice stuff. Is there a way you can explain how a good table should play so people can test and compare their tables? People would probably be able to justify spending the money if they could see what is not right about their tables. Bad seam jobs and dead rails are obvious, but as far as tables needing sub-rail mods that is more subjective without a baseline. I know on my table when I shoot a 3 rail shot from in front of one corner and expect QB to fall in the other corner I aim slightly past 1 diamond away from side pocket. The Red Diamond BBs up by us I have to aim almost 2 1/2 diamonds past the side pocket, just about 1 diamond from the corner pocket. That seemed real odd to me, but that was over the summer so maybe the humidity had something to do with it. Where should you aim this shot on what is considered a proper playing table? What else can you do to compare how your table plays compared to a table that plays correct? I shoot the 3 rail shot with 1/2-1 tip of running english. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Click to expand...

This is such a hard question to answer....but better understood when your in front of the table.....for example.....you said about the 3 rail shot into the corner.....a lot of variables come into play....how much English....how much speed on the cue ball....I do understand a little more this and a little more that changes everything.
That's the main reason you will see players checking the speed of the table....how much English the cushion take....before they play their match....with pockets roll in or out.
The best way of knowing does your table play well is when the cloth wears in and the slide of the new cloth goes away.
Spinning a ball with your fingers at slow speeds can give you a good idea of how the cushions are going to react.
Does the ball bounce before the English takes....you can see if the ball is spinning pretty good but the ball comes off at and angle sharper than what you think the ball should have.....look at the ball spinning as it goes into the rail.....if you think the ball comes off the rail not taking the spin like it hits the rail and slides instead of twisting first...you can see the ball spinning but don't seem to take the angle of spin you think it should.....your rails could be low....now again this is confusing.....cause if the rails are high they may trap the ball and take more English and come off the rails slower.
This to me....and I could be wrong.....but it just seems to be impossible to tell someone how their rails play....without being in front of the table and watching the responce of the cushions.
Different sets of cushions play different.....height...angle...glue...cloth...so many things will effect the balls coming off the rails.
Truth be told....I can't tell someone how to check if their cushions play corretly....myself...I have to be in front of the table.....and yes I know that's and terrible answer. But I'm just trying to be honest.
How the pockets accept the balls......did English effect the ball going into the pocket.
I wish I could give you a secret way of knowing how to check and see if your tables play fair....good or great.....I can't on this site.
Like I said earlier....when your playing and you hit balls and expect the cue ball to travel off the cushions in a certain way and it don't.....you will know if you play on other tables and the ball do something different.
That's why I've always said.....if you don't know how to at least play fair....how could you ever say I had such and such do my rails and they play great.....now you know why hacks get away with doing hack work....and people say....he did a good job....they don't know what a bad job is until someone points it out.....and to point it out....I think you have to be in front of the table.
Playing pool is time consuming....the more you play the better you get.....so the better you get....the more you know how tables should play when you use English and expect the cue ball to do something....and it doesn't.
I don't know how to explain to everyone....try this or try that....and your table plays great...or it play bad. Sorry
Mark Gregory
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top