What Cue Specs do you prefer?

jlrowe said:
True, but Cortland was manufactured different much finer and smoother as compared to modern irish linen. Think it was 9 fine strands rated a 3lbs per strand. Modern irish linen is basically just that... linen. Best comparison i could explain is Cortland is like fine worsted billiard cloth and modern irish linen is like the nappy carpet they put on old valley barboxes back in the day. lol
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You are right and I agree 100%. I picked up an old 70’s Adams Century and could tell by the wrap It was high quality. I don’t know if it was cortland or not. But it Feels better/nicer than the Viking wraps on my 2 players. It’s a finer strand. One of my Vikings rewrapped in about 2002 and it already feels a bit beat up. The adams is nice and smooth. I can only assume it’s cortland or something similar to what you guys are talking about.
 
jlrowe said:
True, but Cortland was manufactured different much finer and smoother as compared to modern irish linen. Think it was 9 fine strands rated a 3lbs per strand. Modern irish linen is basically just that... linen. Best comparison i could explain is Cortland is like fine worsted billiard cloth and modern irish linen is like the nappy carpet they put on old valley barboxes back in the day. lol
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Sorry, but "Irish" is just a moniker to put on linen. Cortland was one of many brands of linen, made in the U.S., not Ireland, and I agree that it was one of the best. However, it wasn't much different from the good Blue Mountain linen, which was also "Irish" linen, and was made in the good old USA. Cortland is another brand of linen. Three of my cues have it, and about four have Blue Mountain. Very little difference, and none came from Ireland.

All the best,
WW
 
WildWing said:
Sorry, but "Irish" is just a moniker to put on linen. Cortland was one of many brands of linen, made in the U.S., not Ireland, and I agree that it was one of the best. However, it wasn't much different from the good Blue Mountain linen, which was also "Irish" linen, and was made in the good old USA. Cortland is another brand of linen. Three of my cues have it, and about four have Blue Mountain. Very little difference, and none came from Ireland.

All the best,
WW
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Yep, old Blue Mtn. was great. Thank Bill Stroud for that!(y)
 
What I meant is the number of rotational spins of the cue ball should not remain constant using different stroke speeds.
 
The thing that made Cortland fishing line different from the other Cuttyhunk brands of that era was uniformity.
I believer it was referred to as Irish linen because the flax used originated in Ireland and it was high grade too.

The consistency of the line’s diameter was because it was spun by machine that passed through the fingers
of a spinning machine operator who would stop the machine if any irregularities were detected. The operator
would cut and splice in new line whenever the fishing line felt uneven and wasn’t perfectly smooth. None of
the other manufacturers did this and it was labor intensive production because of the operator’s involvement.

That why Cortland feels so different. The individual thread diameter is the most consistent of any Cuttyhunk
fishing line. George Balabushka liked to use Cortland #9 on many of his cues. It’s my all time favorite wrap.
 
Konrad said:
That’s like saying everyone should drive a base model vehicle unless they are a race car driver.
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Funny you mention that I own a Euro repair shop and yes, these idiots should pipe down. You want your car to go faster? Get rid of the POS and step up. What you dream of is just a couple of year's salary away. :LOL:

I play pool like crap with pretty much anything you hand me.
 
JC said:
Funny you mention that I own a Euro repair shop and yes, these idiots should pipe down. You want your car to go faster? Get rid of the POS and step up. What you dream of is just a couple of year's salary away. :LOL:
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No I’m saying there are
other reasons to buy a non base model than to go fast. Heated leather seats for one.
 
Wrapless 18.5-19.25
hard tip

i will mix in carbon and wood from 11.75-12.75 depending on what feels good that day/week/month.
 
Listed in order to least to most improtant:

Shaft Weight: people pay attention to that...?
Butt Weight: see above
Balance Point: normal...?
Overal Weight: indifferent, but pressed to provide an answer maybe 19oz..?
Cue length: normal...?
Wrap: Sure but it doesn't make a difference. Oh but I generally don't like the feel of whatever kind of leather they use these days
Joint: I moved from piloted steel to flat faced wood. Much perfer the wood.
Tip Diameter: Perfer ~11.75mm but playing with 12.5mm. Because it doesn't make a difference
Tip Type: Entirely dependant on shaft type. Was a hard whatever on my Z2 to the softest thing I could find for my wx700.
Shaft Taper: Conical

Shaft Construction: Only thing I'm really adamant about is shaft material. I do not like CF. If a day ever comes that they stop producing wood based shafts. I'll either have them made or figure out how to do it myself.
 
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jlrowe said:
Just wondering what cue specs do you prefer? Are you still trying or purchasing cues to find your perfect specs? How long did it take you to come to the conclusion this is what fits my playing style and preferences?
Well It has taken me 30 years to come to a conclusion. I have owned about 50 different cues in my 30 years on the table and have tried numerous other cues that i did not own. So here goes:
I do not like smaller diameter shafts....12.5 mm and up to 13.25. Less error getting off center cueball hit and have better control for position.
I like a longer pro taper than normal.
I do not like 19" or more balance pt. I like to have 17.5" to 18.5"
I like my handle area thinner and i cant lie i don't like big butts. I like smaller diameter butts and like a thinner handle area.
I like cortland linen or irish linen. I love to have my linen sanded super smooth and slicker than a minner lol. Thats why i prefer Cortland because you can get it super smooth.
I never liked longer shafts or cues. I played with standard 58" cues for almost 30 years. I tried couple 57" did not like it for all those years but started shootin with a 57" cue for about a year now. I realized that i now have better cueball control. I dont overrun my position as much.
Pin or joint doesnt make a difference to me. If you blindfold me and hand me cues to hit with im not going to tell you which cue has what pin and joint material.
Oh yeah weight 18 to 18.6 prefered no more than 19.6oz
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12.5 mm butt 15 shaft 3.7 to 3.8, mako pro medium tip, leather wrap
 
JC said:
Only chicks dig their ass being heated up. Dudes just get itchy
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Went to see me sis ONCE in a Wisc. winter. Their ride had heated seats. Greatest thing since bottled beer. I couldn't see not having them in those areas.
 
Not too picky here.

19-21oz is fine
Preferably wrapless.
No smaller than 12.5mm tip.
Tip should be at least medium hardness.
Preferably low deflection (OB Classic+ is perfect for me) but don’t mind “full deflection”

Above all else, it just needs to be clean and slick. I can’t stand shooting with a gunked up shaft or even seeing chalk smudges on the ferrule.

I guess if I really fiddled around with a bunch of different cues I may be pickier, but I try to not overthink that aspect of the game.
 
Still trying to find my perfect playing cue. I been trying a few over the past few years and can't find the perfect combination of what I want.

#1 -- I know I like the Revo Shaft 12.4 with WVP tipped with an ultra skin medium. I got that part nailed down.

The problem is finding the exact butt to go with it.

I know i like either 18.5 or 19oz

It needs to have a quick release bumper so that I can put a rear extension on quick during a game.

First I am starting off with the joint / pin. I want either a radial or 3/8 X 10 pin. I want an implex (or similar) wood to wood joint, i don't like the stainless steel joints on the cue.

I like a soft textured leather wrap, I do not like the fancy lizard skins and etc. Irish linen is pretty good but I still prefer the leather. I tried no wrap for a bit and never really liked it.

As for looks, I like an older style look but nothing too fancy or flashy. I must have points on the cue, preferably multi color outlines on the points. 4 - 6- or 8 points is fine, although some of the 8 points start looking too fancy for me.

Been looking at a lot of Jacoby cues that seem to check a lot of my boxes, but havn't found that one I just gotta have just yet. Plus i need to make sure the revo shaft fits flush at the joint. That drove me nuts on an older cue where the revo was just a tad bigger on the joint diameter.
 
@surffisher2a I definitely would choose a 3/8x10 over the radial. Radial needs more torque to tighten and more than once I have had one loosen up on me in play. Even better if you want more vibration feedback in the butt go with a 3/8x10 modified.
 
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