What Do You Like To Clean Your Shaft & Butt With?

DJSTEVEZ

Professor of Human Moves
Silver Member
I was looking around for a cloth to stash in my case with which to wipe down my cue.

I like to keep that "smooth as glass" feeling on my shaft.

Call me anal retentive or obsessive compulsive, but fingerprints on the finish of my cue's butt bothers me sometimes.

Anywaze, I was thinking a microfiber cloth would be best?

Anyone? Bueller? Anyone, anyone?

THANX! -Z-
 
I was looking around for a cloth to stash in my case with which to wipe down my cue.

I like to keep that "smooth as glass" feeling on my shaft.

Call me anal retentive or obsessive compulsive, but fingerprints on the finish of my cue's butt bothers me sometimes.

Anywaze, I was thinking a microfiber cloth would be best?

Anyone? Bueller? Anyone, anyone?

THANX! -Z-

Here lately I have been using Axe body wash.... It works well on my butt. Especially after a long day of sweating.....
 
I use a magic eraser on the shaft. Sometimes a touch of atlas slick on the shaft with a paper towel to "slick it up" a bit. The fingerprints thing well....that's just anal :p
 
I use a magic eraser on the shaft. Sometimes a touch of atlas slick on the shaft with a paper towel to "slick it up" a bit. The fingerprints thing well....that's just anal :p

You mean one of these? That doesn't screw with the finish or raise the grain?

81OrN78JhqL._SY355_.jpg



Here lately I have been using Axe body wash.... It works well on my butt. Especially after a long day of sweating.....

I prefer this, keeps the boys from becoming malodorous,

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I prefer this, keeps the boys from becoming malodorous,

Fresh_Balls_Arrow_T_Shirt_562x562__59775.1423172289.386.513.png

:grin: Got to have a sense of humor...... I wipe the cue shafts down with denatured alcohol burnish with leather, shaft sealer from Barringer, then Gerlitz No. 1 guitar Wax ... Super smooth and slick..........................
 
The micro fiber cloth is what I use after a night of shooting. I wipe it all down before they go back in my case. Now that my shooter & breaker are both revo shafts, I use the micro fiber 1st then wipe both shafts down with the silky cloth predator gave with them. This is on Tuesday night. On Thursday night, I do all the above then also use the alcohol wipes on both shafts too. Normally only shoot on those 2 nights.
 
About once every 2 weeks, Alchohol Wipe, then Magic Erasure, Q Wiz Rough Side , Q Wiz Soft Side, then burnish like crazy with leather burnisher. During a game I will generally be burnishing it with the leather.


I am pretty obsessive about my cue. I don't like it looking filthy and I like to keep it smooth as possible. I'm probably gonna try out some Q Clean and Q Slick for it .
 
The butt i just wipe
With my t shirt

My shafts stay clean and smooth now that i waxed them

No cleaning at all needed
 
Remove any dents or other wood impressions using steam treatment.
This will raise the wood grain afterwards & multiple times are needed.
You must remove these nicks & dents to achieve a smooth shaft .
Afterwards, sand the shaft using 2000 grit sandpaper or croakus cloth.
Concentrate on the area of the shaft that was steamed and sand it smooth.

Then leather burnish the entire shaft 3-4 times & wear a baseball or golf glove.
Anytime you sand or burnish the shaft, you should rub hard & fast and create heat.
When you do it properly, you'll need a glove or else you will blister your fingers.
Now it's time to seal the shaft with a protective finish with a couple of wax coats.

Typically, I apply 2 coats to my shafts periodically.....at least monthly but more often
if I feel any change in the silky smooth satin like finish and shiny sheen. The shafts
should be almost reflective under the pool table lights. The first time you do this, I'd
apply 3-4 coats and the wax I recommend is Renaissance Wax......Yes, it is pricey
but it does an excellent job and the finish lasts a really long time. If you do not have
ivory ferrules, you may need to clean the ferrules using a whitening toothpaste first.

Been doing this for decades and the shafts on my cues are still straight & incredibly
smooth which is important since I use a closed bridge (no glove) except for difficult shots.
The approach I've described will serve you well. When I am able to get more wax from
Craftsman Cues in Birmingham, England, which is my preferred cue wax, I'll still use both.


Matt B.
 
Remove any dents or other wood impressions using steam treatment.
This will raise the wood grain afterwards & multiple times are needed.
You must remove these nicks & dents to achieve a smooth shaft .
Afterwards, sand the shaft using 2000 grit sandpaper or croakus cloth.
Concentrate on the area of the shaft that was steamed and sand it smooth.

Then leather burnish the entire shaft 3-4 times & wear a baseball or golf glove.
Anytime you sand or burnish the shaft, you should rub hard & fast and create heat.
When you do it properly, you'll need a glove or else you will blister your fingers.
Now it's time to seal the shaft with a protective finish with a couple of wax coats.

Typically, I apply 2 coats to my shafts periodically.....at least monthly but more often
if I feel any change in the silky smooth satin like finish and shiny sheen. The shafts
should be almost reflective under the pool table lights. The first time you do this, I'd
apply 3-4 coats and the wax I recommend is Renaissance Wax......Yes, it is pricey
but it does an excellent job and the finish lasts a really long time. If you do not have
ivory ferrules, you may need to clean the ferrules using a whitening toothpaste first.

Been doing this for decades and the shafts on my cues are still straight & incredibly
smooth which is important since I use a closed bridge (no glove) except for difficult shots.
The approach I've described will serve you well. When I am able to get more wax from
Craftsman Cues in Birmingham, England, which is my preferred cue wax, I'll still use both.


Matt B.

I actually just looked at their website and they have this cue :

90uTSGh.jpg



Stunning 9ball cue with some intricate inlay work, made up of maple, abalone, ebony, rosewood and mother of pearl. Irish linen wrap. Complete with spare shaft. Stunning Abalone points.
Complete with joint protectors.

Cue specs.
Length 59.5", Weight 17.75oz, Tip size 12.7mm

• 5/16x18 joint pin.
• Black and white irish handle..
• Forearm Inlays: made with maple, rosewood, abalone, ebony and mother of pearl inlays.
• End Sleeve Inlays: made with maple, abalone, ebony, rosewood and mother of pearl inlays.
• Forearm and endsleeve made with maple.
• Ring design made with Maple & Abalone.

For 400 dollars. Not sure of the cost of shipping but uh. That's a crazy good cue for that price. It also looks like it comes with a normal shaft and maybe a breakshaft.


The pound is super weak right now it's been on a steady decline for several months now so buying cues from England could be better now than it was.
 
Wash my hands and partially dry with paper towel then dry the rest of the way on another and use that to wipe it off.
Jason
 
I usually wipe my shaft down with a paper towel from the bathroom. Then I have a small cloth made from an old soft t-shirt that I use to wipe the butt down. I have sweaty hands so I do that every time before putting the cue back in my case. Keeps it looking nice.
 
Soap and Soap

I was looking around for a cloth to stash in my case with which to wipe down my cue.

I like to keep that "smooth as glass" feeling on my shaft.

Call me anal retentive or obsessive compulsive, but fingerprints on the finish of my cue's butt bothers me sometimes.

Anywaze, I was thinking a microfiber cloth would be best?

Anyone? Bueller? Anyone, anyone?

THANX! -Z-

I clean my shaft and butt with soap. Cheapest and best way to get that grime and sweat off.
 
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