what glue for leather wraps?

snipershot

snipershot

Go ahead.....run for it.
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I know this has been covered before, and i tried to search, but my phone wont cooperate. I watched the unique video and he uses weldwood contact cement and ive heard others just use white elmers glue. Thats a pretty big difference in glue! Lol. Id like to get the wrap on tonight and be able to use it afterwards. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Joe
 
I have used both successfully.
Obviously, if you use white glue, tonight is out of the question.
If you use contact cement, you pretty much got to get it right the first time - not a lot of wiggle room / wiggle time, but yes there is some time to work it.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
I prefer 3M Scotch Weld 10. That is also what I use to replace rubber rails. If you can find it. If not any good quatity contact cement should do well. Elmer white is great for linen.
 
Thanks fellas. Im putting on a ringtail lizard wrap. Does that make any difference?
 
I've had good luck with contact cement.
I used lepage from Home Depot and also the one that cc sells.
I like the one I got from cc better
 
I used to use Weldwood contact cement but it sticks so aggressively that is very difficult to get the wrap aligned properly. I was told to try the Elmer's white glue with a few drops of water added. This technique made all the difference for me as it gives you a minute or two to get things aligned. This has made a world of difference in the quality of my wrap installs. There is seldom a unsightly seam (mostly determined by the wrap pattern) and both ends are a good fit. If you make a mistake you can easily re-adjust and re-glue before the glue is dry.

Although I've never used it I was told to stay away from Titebond or any other of the yellow glues as they are a little to strong so that if the wrap ever needs changed it will give a fit to the mechanic who tries to remove it. I changed a leather wrap on a Huebler one time and it took 2 to 3 hours just to remove the wrap. I would have to assume that the wrap was installed with yellow glue as I've removed dozens upon dozens of wraps that were installed using either contact or white glue without this problem.

Dick
 
I went with the weldwood contact cement, but im gonna try elmers on the next one. It turned out pretty good for my first wrap. I cut a practice wrap using a cheap leather one i had laying around, and it cut like butter, but this lizard skin was a pain! The blade kept wanting to walk and move with the scales. I had to trim a few spots with some surgical scissors to try to make the cut straighter. I used a brand new razor on every cut, but it still wanted to move.

Joe
 

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I've seen worse seams, from guys that should know better.
Closing the seam can be tricky or it can be cake, depending on the leather.
Shark and bull-hide are stretchy so they can be massaged into place easily.
Some wraps are pretty stiff and stretch about as well as cardboard.
However, once the glue has been allowed to soak-in, most wraps will become pliable.

There's some good info to be had with a search.
I picked up a good trick from a Scott Gracio post a few yrs ago about 'taping' the seam shut.
Once the seam is closed, taping across it in several places will help in preventing the leather from contracting
and opening the seam as the glue is drying. After 8 hrs, you can remove the tape and the seam stays shut.
I don't use it on every wrap as it's not always needed. It depends on how well the closing went.
Leather wraps are like anything else, the more you do, the better they get.

KJ
 
Snipershot... Joe thanks for posting the follow-up shots!! It is good to see what the turnout is!! BTW damn fine job!!
 
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