SSDiver2112
2b || !2b t^ ?
It might be worth the extra dollar per ferrule to be threaded and ready for efficiency rather than getting the blank and having to make them all myself.
What is the best ferrule material
- Thread starter PoolFan101
- Start date
dendweller
Well-known member
Had a guy playing on the next table the other day with a slip on, what a nasty noise.
Way worth it. Anything that saves time is worth $$$ to me.
snookered_again
Well-known member
I agree the slip on ones look like junk . they also seem common, not amongst serious pool players, and quality cues, but maybe those with just a table at home. they must be commonly provided at home entertainment stores as a easy quick fix solution for basic homeowners.
I think i can size my own ferrules ok, so Im looking for some materials. Im seeing a lot that are carbon fiber but with that perhaps it looks awful if they are turned on the outside and I definitely want to be able to true them up to the cue itself and then polish, I want o be able to size both internal and external dimensions. m seeing themonline but already cut into short lengths with the hole created. I really just want rod stock, I can make my own hole and cut to the length I want . I'd rather make the hole fit the cue than try to make the cue fit a pre drilled hole in the ferrule. I don't see a need for threading anything but Im admittedly green and there is a lot I dont understand yet.
here is a source I found for carbon rod, but I'm unsure if I can polish that after I turn int. If I use some sort of plastic material or brass it may be less difficult to have a nice finish after turning. if carbon fiber is used.
id prefer if the ferrule material can be oversized like 1/2" or 13 mm , then If I want say 10 or 11 mm for snooker cue it's just a matter of resizing and I'd likely want to do that after installation so I can true the tip to the cue, face it off flush and then install the tip. I do want the tip and the ferrule to make a good bond with crazy glue, not just the end of the shaft. I don't want screw on tips.
i think I can insert a shaft through my chuck but i suppose I need to either make or buy a collett with an appropriate size and taper as Im not going to be able to grip a tapered stick in the chuck itself.
Im thinking a plastic collar can be made with a slit in it so it can be tightened over the shaft. do i need to make my own tapered collett or is this something I can just buy off the shelf? boring the internal taper might be a bit of a challenge. I might eed 2 one for snooker and one for 8 ball cues.
I have bronze, I can use that if it's a short tip but if it's like 1" then maybe I need some sort of fiber material. so the tip is lighter. I know glue doesn't' stick well to Teflon or nylon, it may stick OK to some fibrous plastics. I see the word Juma thrown around so maybe that?
i found a list of ferrule materials in order of weight.
im not looking for ivory or the most expensive materials, I basically want to try fixing a few junk cues and test the waters that way there are no disappointments.
I know others who re-tip as somewhat of a business and my intent isn't to compete, I just like being able to do things like this myself.
my little southbend clone lathe is ok for making small parts. Its not really suitable for any length , a full piece cue wont fit. I might be able to turn things between centers and offset the center for taper turning. but length is limited ..
I think basically , if I can clamp a shaft in my chuck wiht the tip sticking out , then I can change ferrules and trim the tips, I don't think its really practical to make my own cues..
I think i can size my own ferrules ok, so Im looking for some materials. Im seeing a lot that are carbon fiber but with that perhaps it looks awful if they are turned on the outside and I definitely want to be able to true them up to the cue itself and then polish, I want o be able to size both internal and external dimensions. m seeing themonline but already cut into short lengths with the hole created. I really just want rod stock, I can make my own hole and cut to the length I want . I'd rather make the hole fit the cue than try to make the cue fit a pre drilled hole in the ferrule. I don't see a need for threading anything but Im admittedly green and there is a lot I dont understand yet.
here is a source I found for carbon rod, but I'm unsure if I can polish that after I turn int. If I use some sort of plastic material or brass it may be less difficult to have a nice finish after turning. if carbon fiber is used.
Carbon Fiber Rods -Round
DescriptionOur Carbon Fiber Solid Rods are manufactured by a pulling continuous carbon fibers combined with a resin matrix through a heated steel forming die. This process is referred to as pultrusion and is used for producing continuous lengths of composite materials with constant...
store.acpcomposites.com
id prefer if the ferrule material can be oversized like 1/2" or 13 mm , then If I want say 10 or 11 mm for snooker cue it's just a matter of resizing and I'd likely want to do that after installation so I can true the tip to the cue, face it off flush and then install the tip. I do want the tip and the ferrule to make a good bond with crazy glue, not just the end of the shaft. I don't want screw on tips.
i think I can insert a shaft through my chuck but i suppose I need to either make or buy a collett with an appropriate size and taper as Im not going to be able to grip a tapered stick in the chuck itself.
Im thinking a plastic collar can be made with a slit in it so it can be tightened over the shaft. do i need to make my own tapered collett or is this something I can just buy off the shelf? boring the internal taper might be a bit of a challenge. I might eed 2 one for snooker and one for 8 ball cues.
I have bronze, I can use that if it's a short tip but if it's like 1" then maybe I need some sort of fiber material. so the tip is lighter. I know glue doesn't' stick well to Teflon or nylon, it may stick OK to some fibrous plastics. I see the word Juma thrown around so maybe that?
i found a list of ferrule materials in order of weight.
im not looking for ivory or the most expensive materials, I basically want to try fixing a few junk cues and test the waters that way there are no disappointments.
I know others who re-tip as somewhat of a business and my intent isn't to compete, I just like being able to do things like this myself.
my little southbend clone lathe is ok for making small parts. Its not really suitable for any length , a full piece cue wont fit. I might be able to turn things between centers and offset the center for taper turning. but length is limited ..
I think basically , if I can clamp a shaft in my chuck wiht the tip sticking out , then I can change ferrules and trim the tips, I don't think its really practical to make my own cues..
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Carbon fiber can present some risks when working with it, primarily due to the fine fibers that can become airborne during cutting, sanding, or drilling processes. These airborne fibers can potentially cause respiratory irritation or damage if inhaled over an extended period.
Additionally, carbon fiber dust can be irritating to the skin and eyes, and proper precautions should be taken to minimize contact. It's essential to use appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), such as gloves, goggles, and a mask or respirator rated for fine particulate matter, when working with carbon fiber to reduce the risk of exposure.
In terms of handling the material itself, carbon fiber can be sharp when cut, so care should be taken to avoid cuts and abrasions. Proper ventilation and dust control measures, such as working in a well-ventilated area or using dust collection systems, can help mitigate the risks associated with carbon fiber dust.
Overall, while carbon fiber can pose some risks, these risks can be managed with proper precautions and safety measures in place. Following best practices for handling and working with carbon fiber can help minimize the potential dangers.
Additionally, carbon fiber dust can be irritating to the skin and eyes, and proper precautions should be taken to minimize contact. It's essential to use appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), such as gloves, goggles, and a mask or respirator rated for fine particulate matter, when working with carbon fiber to reduce the risk of exposure.
In terms of handling the material itself, carbon fiber can be sharp when cut, so care should be taken to avoid cuts and abrasions. Proper ventilation and dust control measures, such as working in a well-ventilated area or using dust collection systems, can help mitigate the risks associated with carbon fiber dust.
Overall, while carbon fiber can pose some risks, these risks can be managed with proper precautions and safety measures in place. Following best practices for handling and working with carbon fiber can help minimize the potential dangers.
snookered_again
Well-known member
I agree the slip on ones look like junk . they also seem common, not amongst serious pool players, and quality cues, but maybe those with just a table at home. they must be commonly provided at home entertainment stores as a easy quick fix solution for basic homeowners.
I think i can size my own ferrules ok, so Im looking for some materials. Im seeing a lot that are carbon fiber but with that perhaps it looks awful if they are turned on the outside and I definitely want to be able to true them up to the cue itself and then polish, I want o be able to size both internal and external dimensions.
here is a source I found for carbon rod, but I'm unsure if I can polish that after I turn int. If I use some sort of plastic material or brass it may be less difficult to have a nice finish after turning. if carbon fiber is used.
Carbon Fiber Rods -Round
DescriptionOur Carbon Fiber Solid Rods are manufactured by a pulling continuous carbon fibers combined with a resin matrix through a heated steel forming die. This process is referred to as pultrusion and is used for producing continuous lengths of composite materials with constant...store.acpcomposites.com
id prefer if the ferrule material can be oversized like 1/2" then If I want say 10 or 11 mm for snooker cue it's just a matter of resizing and I'd likely want to do that after installation so I can true the tip to the cue, face it off flush and then install the tip. I do want the tip and the ferrule to make a good bond with crazy glue, not just the end of the shaft. I dont want screw on tips.
i think I can insert a shaft through my chuck but i suppose I need to either make or buy a collett with an appropriate size and taper as Im not going to be able to grip a tapered stick in the chuck itself.
Im thinking a plastic collar can be made with a slit in it so it can be tightened over the shaft. do i need to make my own tapered collett or is this something I can just buy off the shelf? boring the internal taper might be a bit of a challenge. I might eed 2 one for snooker and one for 8 ball cues.
I have bronze, I can use that if it's a short tip but if it's like 1" then maybe I need some sort of fiber material. so the tip is lighter. I know glue doesn't' stick well to Teflon or nylon, it may stick OK to some fibrous plastics. I see the word Juma thrown around so maybe that?
i found a list of ferrule materials in order of weight.
im not looking for ivory or the most expensive materials, I basically want to try fixing a few junk cues and test the waters that way there are no disappointments.
I know others who do this as somewhat of a business and my intent isn't to compete, I just like being able to do things like this myself.
my little southbend clone lathe is ok for making small parts. Its not really suitable for any length , a full piece cue wont fit. I might be able to turn things between centers and offset the center for taper turning. but length is limited ..
I think basically , if I can clamp a shaft in my chuck wiht the tip sticking out , then I can change ferrules and trim the tips, I don't think its really practical to make my own cues..
i have suitable PPE and dust extraction but my concern with carbon fiber is that:
I think the extruded carbon fiber ones will have a surface free of loose strands but I wonder if I were to try to cu and polish to reduce the the outside diameter..
I may then just have issues with these exposed strands never really wanting to be polished. I think during the extrusion process the strands are kept within the material. If I go resizing the OD, I see that finishing as becoming a potential issue.
SSDiver2112
2b || !2b t^ ?
Very common in bars because they can slip them on for pennies.
This is what you can find under there.
snookered_again
Well-known member
when I set up my lathe I hadn't predicted needing space but Ill have to shift it to the right to get a cue in the backside of the chuck, and turn a similar looking collar. I thought of making a hole in the wall but my electric panel is there so Ill move it a foot or two and re-level it.
That cue looks pretty messed up for sure. was the second shot an epoxy repair?
That cue looks pretty messed up for sure. was the second shot an epoxy repair?
SSDiver2112
2b || !2b t^ ?
No, that is just the chewed up ferrule.
I was just starting out with repairs and offered to re-tip all the cues at my favorite watering hole for practice. I had no idea most would need a ferrule too. Needed practice with those too so it was fine.
Not going to do that for free for anyone else though. Which is why I am inquiring about ferrules for this purpose.
And another
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snookered_again
Well-known member
looks like you did a good job with that one, and every cue is not all that, especially house cues, Its still nice to have tips on them. cues with bad tips are a risk to the cloth. I see following a similar approach with some that I have around.. I wanted a couple that are shorter, but not 3 foot shorties so thought maybe I can sacrifice a couple.. my walls are a bit tight in spots and so far I just unscrew the butt of my 3/4 snooker cue and use that. Thought I'd make some about 6" shorter than normal just to have handy in those troublesome spots. I've seen where there is a pole or something and then people just put a rack to hold a single shortie on the wall right there where the issue is so it's self explanatory.
Bayou Queen
New member
Mine are elk horn and to be honest I have tried many others but the elk horn has the best feel to me. It’s got a firm feel. I’m partial to them since I have been using them since 1999. I have recently moved to the Taom Pro tip to go with it and I absolutely love it.
snookered_again
Well-known member
reminds me of my mom, she was into txtiles and weaving so my dad cut a bunch of antlers down on the tablesaw. she'd dye them to match the garments she made from wool and use them for buttons, and they looked nice.. but wow the stink! it just made me think of dead bodies burning, It made me think of how people that lived through wars and such and have PTSD would be instantly triggered by that certain weird and upsetting odor.
maybe its OK if you dont get it too hot and use sharp tools? I guess you could die the ferrules some color if desired. would any antler be similar? is there a certain part you prefer to get the material from? I wonder if antlers that were shed would be appropriate or how quickly they would decompose, sometimes the coyotes get deer on our property and leave remnants, My brother is into guns and hunting so he could likely source them quite easily from other hunters. Probably they don't value them unless its a buck with enough points that is some sort of "trophy". We seem to have a lot of deer around our place all the time, some moose but they are seen less often. sometimes they will go walk into the lake , swim to the other side (1 mile) rather than walking around, fun to watch, but fairly rare. I dont know if elk would have preferable antlers, but maybe some are more porous than others.
maybe its OK if you dont get it too hot and use sharp tools? I guess you could die the ferrules some color if desired. would any antler be similar? is there a certain part you prefer to get the material from? I wonder if antlers that were shed would be appropriate or how quickly they would decompose, sometimes the coyotes get deer on our property and leave remnants, My brother is into guns and hunting so he could likely source them quite easily from other hunters. Probably they don't value them unless its a buck with enough points that is some sort of "trophy". We seem to have a lot of deer around our place all the time, some moose but they are seen less often. sometimes they will go walk into the lake , swim to the other side (1 mile) rather than walking around, fun to watch, but fairly rare. I dont know if elk would have preferable antlers, but maybe some are more porous than others.
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Bayou Queen
New member
I haven’t tried other antlers, my cue is a Jensen made by Mike Johnson and he recommended the elk horn, before that I was shooting with Ivory ferrules but the elk horn has such an amazing feel to them. I keep them clean because antler can be a bit porous but they look now just as they did 20+ years ago.
snookered_again
Well-known member
makes me wonder if teeth may be harder than bone or antlers.
then what animal would have large enough teeth to make ferrules from. cows maybe? I bet all that goes into some process, like making fertilizer or dog food.
then what animal would have large enough teeth to make ferrules from. cows maybe? I bet all that goes into some process, like making fertilizer or dog food.
Bayou Queen
New member
The OG Micarta ferrules had asbestos in them that’s why they aren’t available anymore, the newer ones do not.
PoolPlayerNNJ
Member
Interesting thread, and thank you to everyone for posting. So, I can't tell you a think about ferrule material and what is the best for pool cues, tip, etc., because I am not that good of a player, don't know crap about cues, tips, how they are made, etc., and don't know anything about cue construction or related topics. However, professionally, in one part of my life, I deal with various composites, commodities, materials, and yes, certain ferrule materials as well.
So, that said, I've had people tell me that when it comes to performance, a major component of how a cue plays has to do with the tip. I don't know if that's true or not. However, here's what I can tell you from a "materials" standpoint -- the flow of vibration, energy, stiffness, flexibility, and so much more -- has to do with the ferrule material used. Now, I have no supporting evidence to this, but I think most ferrule material you see in tips today are either linen fiber, a hybrid fiber, Ivorine, Aegis (both considered to be synthetic ivory, and that is partially true), Ivory, synthetic ivory, types of hybrid plastics, even alloys, and more.
If you are looking for a ferrule that will give you the most or best "feel" than ivory or a synthetic ivory is still going to provide you with the most benefit. Could you be sacrificing something else? Sure, but I am not that good of a player or judge of cues, tips, etc., to tell you. If you want a ferrule that is going to absorb and dampen vibration, and some of that "feel" than linen fibers are going to be where you want to look. That said, it doesn't matter what narrative or education you get. Pick up a cue and/or try different types of tips -- and buy what you like! Period. What it's called or what it's supposed to do doesn't mean squat. If you like it, it's for you. If you don't, it ain't for you.
So, that said, I've had people tell me that when it comes to performance, a major component of how a cue plays has to do with the tip. I don't know if that's true or not. However, here's what I can tell you from a "materials" standpoint -- the flow of vibration, energy, stiffness, flexibility, and so much more -- has to do with the ferrule material used. Now, I have no supporting evidence to this, but I think most ferrule material you see in tips today are either linen fiber, a hybrid fiber, Ivorine, Aegis (both considered to be synthetic ivory, and that is partially true), Ivory, synthetic ivory, types of hybrid plastics, even alloys, and more.
If you are looking for a ferrule that will give you the most or best "feel" than ivory or a synthetic ivory is still going to provide you with the most benefit. Could you be sacrificing something else? Sure, but I am not that good of a player or judge of cues, tips, etc., to tell you. If you want a ferrule that is going to absorb and dampen vibration, and some of that "feel" than linen fibers are going to be where you want to look. That said, it doesn't matter what narrative or education you get. Pick up a cue and/or try different types of tips -- and buy what you like! Period. What it's called or what it's supposed to do doesn't mean squat. If you like it, it's for you. If you don't, it ain't for you.
Curious if you can inform of us of brands of synthetic ivory and can it be purchased in rods. Thank you for your knowledge.
PoolPlayerNNJ
Member
You're welcome, and thank you! I wish I could, however, I deal in them as commodities, in massive quantity, large sizes, etc. I am not sure what types can be purchased in rods. Typically a fabricator or even a manufacturer would purchase the material in large bulk size, and would then make rods, smaller bars, other shapes, sizes, etc.
That said, brands or types of synthetic ivory are -- Ivorine, Aegis, Elforyn Super Tusk, Resin Ivory (-S), Digory, Tagua (which is a vegetable-based synthetic ivory), another synthetic which is silk cellulose and hydroxyapatite-based resin ivory, Alternative Ivory col.849/TM (which I know comes in rods, from Masecraft Supply Company), Syncrystal, Simfix SF1 Synthetic Bristle, and RPIvory (developed by Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute). There are numerous others. One of the more popular uses is in the keys of pianos!
Thank you, this is Greek to me outside of the known ferrule materials listed, but I’m sure cue builders would be interested in any of these materials that are not currently being used in ferrules. The most recent one that was marketed and took off here is called “Tomahawk“, but I imagine that is what it was branded by the first person marketing it as a ferrule material. I think that would be member J2pac. It has become very popular.