What is the Best Hitting and most stable base wood used by Cue Makers.

What is the best hitting and most stable wood for cue building.

  • Padauk

    Votes: 2 2.5%
  • African Blackwood

    Votes: 5 6.3%
  • Purple Heart

    Votes: 13 16.3%
  • Bacote

    Votes: 16 20.0%
  • Ebony

    Votes: 5 6.3%
  • Goncales Alves

    Votes: 3 3.8%
  • Maple Hard Rock

    Votes: 20 25.0%
  • Maple Birdseye

    Votes: 5 6.3%
  • Rosewood

    Votes: 11 13.8%
  • Walnut

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    80

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
With all the woods availible to Cue Makers today what is considered to be the most Stable and best hitting base wood used in cue making. Please add anything I have not listed!!

Thanks for your support

Craig
 
It's bocote not bacote Monwan.
Purpleheart is the most stable wood there is I think.
 
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i like the Blackwood hit the best and it is very stable.as far as being the most stable i would guess PH.
 
Birdseye maple and 'hard rock' maple are the same species. The only difference is that one is figured and the other's not.
 
KJ Cues said:
Birdseye maple and 'hard rock' maple are the same species. The only difference is that one is figured and the other's not.

KJ, you are very correct but I, myself, feel that straight grain H/R Maple is more stable and I Feel a better hitting cue wood. This of coarse is my own opinion and not chiseled in stone.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
KJ, you are very correct but I, myself, feel that straight grain H/R Maple is more stable and I Feel a better hitting cue wood. This of coarse is my own opinion and not chiseled in stone.

Dick
I think so too.
 
rhncue said:
KJ, you are very correct but I, myself, feel that straight grain H/R Maple is more stable and I Feel a better hitting cue wood. This of coarse is my own opinion and not chiseled in stone.

Dick

This is why I listed both types Dick. Over the years I have seen uncored Birdseye Fracture at Joint Collars and split to the cues pin in many older cues. This may also happen when the hole for the pin is bored, and the pin is inserted. I am not talking about having the bored hole deeper than the bottom of the pin either. While I love the hit from a Birdseye forearm, I am uncertain of it's stability uncored. Normally, when I core a Birdseye forearm, I use straight grain Maple.

In the end I myself do not like uncored Highly Figured Birdseye\.

Thanks Dick for your comments
 
manwon said:
In the end I myself do not like uncored Highly Figured Birdseye\.
K, I'll core them all from now on.
Send me those 20+ rpi shafts that ranoff but have good 14 inches in there.
 
JoeyInCali said:
K, I'll core them all from now on.
Send me those 20+ rpi shafts that ranoff but have good 14 inches in there.

How about some 40 - 60 RPI 100 year old house cue fronts from those old Brunswick I have laying around here.
 
manwon said:
How about some 40 - 60 RPI 100 year old house cue fronts from those old Brunswick I have laying around here.
Those are kinda old, but I'll take them.
If you have any Centennial racks laying around, send those geezers too.

I have amassed a few really pingy tight grain straight grain maple that are down to .780" now. They will be sweet hitters.
 
Joey heres some pictures of things I am sorting by age!!!!!

Junk.jpg

up.jpg
 
I cut the house cues at 30+ inches and hand them, the I start with very slow turns. I have well over 100 hanging in various stages. Now all I need is some time to convert them into cues.
 
cuemaker03 said:
I cut the house cues at 30+ inches and hand them, the I start with very slow turns. I have well over 100 hanging in various stages. Now all I need is some time to convert them into cues.

All the cues pictured are from the 1940's back to the 1880's. I have around 250 I think, I am in the process of sorting them out. Many still have Ivory Ferrules and original bumpers which I save and use on restorations. Even the cues that have delaminated at the points can still be used for rings of coring. This is some stable wood, most all of it is 60 to 100 years old. Over all there is little waste, and the figure of the old wood is really nice.

Alot of the old Brunswicks are around .950 to .900 when cut 3 1/2 to 4 inches above the points. Most are between 26 and 30 inches so in many cases butts must be added.

I do not think there is a better source of old wood for newbies like myself to start sharpening our skills with!!!!!!But best of all they are not expensive, so while other wood is aging a new builder can build with these!!!

Thanks for your post!!!!!
 
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manwon said:
Thanks very much, but the poll only allows 10 items!!

I will add them though!!!!
Both won't make the stability category.
There are at least two more woods missing there that hit as good or better than purpleheart but am keeping it a hush-hush.
 
manwon said:
This is why I listed both types Dick. Over the years I have seen uncored Birdseye Fracture at Joint Collars and split to the cues pin in many older cues. This may also happen when the hole for the pin is bored, and the pin is inserted. I am not talking about having the bored hole deeper than the bottom of the pin either. While I love the hit from a Birdseye forearm, I am uncertain of it's stability uncored. Normally, when I core a Birdseye forearm, I use straight grain Maple.

In the end I myself do not like uncored Highly Figured Birdseye\.

Thanks Dick for your comments




This Has been My experience too, more likely to twist then straight grained, and I've seen My share of forearms snapped just below the joint. all figured maple too(mostly BE maple). I've yet to see that in straight grained maple unless the damage was for the most part self induced.
 
Cue Crazy said:
This Has been My experience too, more likely to twist then straight grained, and I've seen My share of forearms snapped just below the joint. all figured maple too(mostly BE maple). I've yet to see that in straight grained maple unless the damage was for the most part self induced.

I have come to the conclusion that Birdseye is very brittle where the figure occurs. The more figure the worst the problem gets, but when cored in my opinion you have a beautiful stable forearm.

Thanks for your post
 
I like bubinga, bloodwood, bocote, morado, and ph in that order. H maple is a good player but too light for my taste.

A side note what happened to the wow thread??
 
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