What is the definition of a "piloted (shaft) joint" ?

onlypool

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I am not certain of the definition of a "piloted (shaft) joint" Doesn't that mean the shaft has the mini bulge protruding from the end like/similar to the one in the pic i provided? What do they call the flat faced shaft joint with only the "metal threaded insert"? ie: no bulge at the end
 

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I am not certain of the definition of a "piloted (shaft) joint" Doesn't that mean the shaft has the mini bulge protruding from the end like/similar to the one in the pic i provided? What do they call the flat faced shaft joint with only the "metal threaded insert"? ie: no bulge at the end
My Adams are piloted. The rest are flat faced.
 

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I am not certain of the definition of a "piloted (shaft) joint" Doesn't that mean the shaft has the mini bulge protruding from the end like/similar to the one in the pic i provided? What do they call the flat faced shaft joint with only the "metal threaded insert"? ie: no bulge at the end
that 'mini bulge' IS the pilot. fits into a recess around the pin.
 
Just a bit of technical information, probably boring to most. Threads are not meant to locate anything radially. They are only designed to hold things together. If you want the joint to come together precisely every time another guide works best.

Here is where the combination of a long free floating pin and a pilot works great. The threads pull things together, the pilot locates the joint radially.

Pilots can be small, the free floating part of the pin can be fairly short too. Most builders are way into overkill when building cues. Still, a well made cue is nice and extra insurance doesn't hurt.

Flat faces obviously have no pilot and rely on the threads for alignment. That depends on the quality of the threads which can vary hugely. Also, there can be surprising movement on impact with nonpiloted joints. Large or small, a pilot is a good idea from an engineering standpoint and I think a practical standpoint too.

Hu
 
Just a bit of technical information, probably boring to most. Threads are not meant to locate anything radially. They are only designed to hold things together. If you want the joint to come together precisely every time another guide works best.

Here is where the combination of a long free floating pin and a pilot works great. The threads pull things together, the pilot locates the joint radially.

Pilots can be small, the free floating part of the pin can be fairly short too. Most builders are way into overkill when building cues. Still, a well made cue is nice and extra insurance doesn't hurt.

Flat faces obviously have no pilot and rely on the threads for alignment. That depends on the quality of the threads which can vary hugely. Also, there can be surprising movement on impact with nonpiloted joints. Large or small, a pilot is a good idea from an engineering standpoint and I think a practical standpoint too.

Hu
Pilots can be small, You can say that again.
IMG_7249.jpg
 
Just a bit of technical information, probably boring to most. Threads are not meant to locate anything radially. They are only designed to hold things together. If you want the joint to come together precisely every time another guide works best.
That guide can be (and often is) incorporated into the pin and the hole that is threaded to accept it. The pilots on most (not all) cues are as sloppy as the threads they are supposed to locate, so they are often completely useless except maybe to protect the end of the shaft. :ROFLMAO:
Just some more boring information.
 
That guide can be (and often is) incorporated into the pin and the hole that is threaded to accept it. The pilots on most (not all) cues are as sloppy as the threads they are supposed to locate, so they are often completely useless except maybe to protect the end of the shaft. :ROFLMAO:
Just some more boring information.

Yeah, I left the G-10 pin sticking out a long ways on my personal cue and the nonthreaded section serves as my pilot. Seems to work.

Hu
 
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