WHat is the most common issue when this happens?? Pin, Facing, Warpage?

acedonkeyace

acedonkeyace

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a very nice 30 + year old, A200 Viking pool cue, this is the problem, I took the cue out and rolled the shaft, there is no wobble, no lift, straight and true in the roll. The shaft threads and small pilot all look good. I rolled the butt section and the nose does have about 1 credit card of lift in the nose area and it is not very far into the butt before it is flat and true, I put the cue together and the shaft hops about 1/4+" and then and the other part of the roll it has the shaft lying flat all the way across the cue length??

What is the most common reason for something like this? Is it repairable, if it is the lift in the nose of the butt section, do you just live with how it rolls?

I shot with it and in the stroking area of the cue as i rotated the cue around in my hand I did not see the tip or ferrule area move at all, I shot and it shot very well, but if you lie it on the table to set up the rack and then roll it you will see the tip jump??

Expert opinions and suggestions?

Mike
 
Unless I'm not reading your description correctly, you've already identified the cause of the wobble. When the nose of your butt lifts, it lifts the shaft as well. Multiply that 1 credit card thickness over 29" and you get what? About 1/4" inch.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
GBCues said:
Unless I'm not reading your description correctly, you've already identified the cause of the wobble. When the nose of your butt lifts, it lifts the shaft as well. Multiply that 1 credit card thickness over 29" and you get what? About 1/4" inch.
My 2 cents,
Gary
Click to expand...

Cue owners forget a little lift at the joint is a lot at the ferrule. Simple but worth remembering :) great answer Gary.


Mario
 
DoubleD and Renegade:

AceDonkeyAce wrote:" and the nose does have about 1 credit card of lift in the nose area and it is not very far into the butt before it is flat and true,"

Of course we don't know how far "not very far" is, it could be one inch, 3 inches or 6 inches, but even if it is one inch, how would you chuck up and face the joint on the butt and get a good facing? It sounds to me like the butt is warped. Not saying I'm right, just trying to understand what you guys are thinking.

AceDonkeyAce, how far into the butt before the lift goes away?

Gary
 
GBCues said:
DoubleD and Renegade:

AceDonkeyAce wrote:" and the nose does have about 1 credit card of lift in the nose area and it is not very far into the butt before it is flat and true,"

Of course we don't know how far "not very far" is, it could be one inch, 3 inches or 6 inches, but even if it is one inch, how would you chuck up and face the joint on the butt and get a good facing? It sounds to me like the butt is warped. Not saying I'm right, just trying to understand what you guys are thinking.

AceDonkeyAce, how far into the butt before the lift goes away?

Gary
Click to expand...

True Gary.

I had an old Meucci come in a few months back with a warp in the forearm. I set it up on center at the butt as well as on the joint collar and faced it perpendicular to that centerline. The shaft also had a bit of roll as well that exaggerated the problem, so I faced it back about a half of a thread or so to use the roll in the shaft to offset the roll in the butt pretty much. Neither are perfect for sure, but it's alot less obvious now when rolled on the table screwed together, and the customer is satisfied.

This may be a more extreme case though.
 
DoubleD said:
Gary,

I don't disagree, which is why I asked the question about whether the lift on the butt and the lift on the shaft occurred at the same place.

This is much more pertinent information than how far into the butt the lift occurs.

dld
Click to expand...



In any case...the man advertises a pro shop and works on cues...has a lathe....you would think he could/would provide better info on the problem.

From the info provided the butt is obviously warped...but that depends on the reliability and accuracy of the info provided of course.

The question was regarding the most common cause. Wood warps is the answer. There could of course be multiple factors involved with the butt, joint, and shaft...but the info provided is insufficient to determine that.

You guys have the ability to perhaps minimize the problem with joint facing strategies and perhaps other measures....

Suggestions were also requested. I think a great suggestion is to put it in the hands of a good repair person for inspection and perhaps some repair.



.


.
 
DoubleD said:
Damn, Doc, you cut straight to the bone. I noticed that and decided to not mention it.

dld
Click to expand...

Well, I love reading threads here. You guys rock as far as educating us.

But I was getting a bit tired of all the mental masturbation. Somebody qualified needs to put it on a lathe and make some decisions.

It certainly shouldn't degrade to you guys arguing about it. None of you have touched it and and the poster provides very sketchy information on it.

I just hate to see you guys get snippy with each other over something like this.



.
 
DoubleD said:
Heh-heh, thanks.

I hope I didn't come off as snippy, Gary offered great thoughts and I simply wanted to make sure that he understood my point.

If I did come off as snippy, I would like to extend apologies to anyone I offended by it.

Have fun!

dld
Click to expand...


I don't think you were snippy....

I just saw some conflicting perspectives on the issue that I thought really didn't matter much given the information provided. More than once such things have resulted in people butting heads around here over something that really was unnecessary.

I didn't mean to apply you were snippy. :smile:



.
 
I thought it was a civil discussion - no snippiness detected nor intended.
Notice that the OP is not even following his own thread.
And yes Doc, you DO cut to the bone! Twice now as I see it!!:grin:
Gary
 
GBCues said:
I thought it was a civil discussion - no snippiness detected nor intended.
Notice that the OP is not even following his own thread.
And yes Doc, you DO cut to the bone! Twice now as I see it!!:grin:
Gary
Click to expand...


Hmmmm.....

Maybe I am the one being snippy? :rolleyes::sorry::D



Ah well....carry on then. :thumbup:





.
 
Renegade_56 said:
Refacing the joint should take a lot of the wobble out.
Click to expand...

The face does not cause the forearm to wobble when not jointed with the shaft.
I'm guessing warped A-joint or warp forearm.
To Ace,
Put the cue between centers and look at it .
 
JoeyInCali said:
The face does not cause the forearm to wobble when not jointed with the shaft.
I'm guessing warped A-joint or warp forearm.
To Ace,
Put the cue between centers and look at it .
Click to expand...

No doubt you are right there Joey. I merely suggested a method that may somewhat minimize the lift at the tip when the cue is together.
 
Thanks for all the input and suggestions,

I have never claimed to be a cue maker, in the ProShop that I have, I do what I know how to do well, that is carry one of the largest and most complete selections of tips that have been made and are currently made, I do a great job of retipping, ferrule replacement, tennons and cleaning, sealing, waxing and finishing shafts. That is what I know how to do and havent ever claimed to do more. I have a couple of local cue makers that are in the area that I can go to when they arent too busy, but most of the time I never can get face to face time with them, that is why I am very proud to be able to come to a forum like this that has so many experienced cue makers and workers and get an honest, informed opinion.

So, with that said, I offer my thanks to those that gave out info and just wanted to let others know that everyone has a different level of knowledge on different subjects, so dont be so quick to judge or come down on those that attempt to increase their own knowledge base.

I am happy to have the knowledge I do have and when someone asks me a question I dont know the answer to, I am happy to tell them, 'i dont know' but I usually can put them in contact with someone who can give them the answers. But, I never look down on someone for asking the question, no matter how basic or mundane it might seem. I was always raised to treat everyone the way I wanted or wished to be treated and if someone ever took the time to ask me a question, I would give them the same time to answer the question or direct them to the answer if I could.

It is just going thru life following the 'GOLDEN RULE'

With that said, thanks for the info,

I know that the a joint is warped, I just didnt know how much that would contribute to the lift in the tip area, I have seen cues that have as much lift in the a joint as the one I am talking about and the tip didnt lift at all, but with mine the a joint has 1 credit card of lift for about 2 inches of the joint back and then it fades to totally flat. The flatness follows all the way through the butt section all the way to the buttplate.

So, I didnt know if the exageration at the tip area could be minimized by offsetting another area of the cue, either butt section, joint, pin, or shaft areas?

This is all new to me, but hang in there with me, I usually retain what I am taught and am happy to gleen any info the experienced cue makers and workers are willing to share.

Thanks again for the info and any other suggestions you are all willing to give.

Take Care

Respectfully

Mike 'acedonkeyace' Kennedy:thumbup:
 
I fived a warp in one of the fanciest

Meucci cues I ever saw last year and the factory caused the warp to happen. There was 2 1/2 inch long by 3/32nd's set screws twisted into the forearm about 2 inches back from the joint collar added for weight I guess. They were screwed in at two crazy angles and then the thick white plastic applied over that,this is a beautiful cue with carolina blue points and inlays. I cut through the cue at the warp and bored both ends where I cut tapped and threaded them with a 9/16th tennon and a matching thin plastic ring and it looks and shoots great. The 34th cue of 100 in this series from the early 90's is straight after a year so why twist in the set screws to start with.--Leonard
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top