What kind of ferrulle do you prefer?

penoy78 said:
Hi guys,
I recently cracked the ferrule on my cue after only having it for 3 weeks. :confused: It had an ivorine 4 on it and I wanted to know what you guys thought was the best option as far as ferrules go. Thanks ahead of time.

Also, anyone know why a ferrule would crack 3 weeks into shooting with it. I'd like to think that I'm not a banger and I never break with the cue. Temperature maybe????
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For me, Ivory hands down.
 
penoy78 said:
Hi guys,
I recently cracked the ferrule on my cue after only having it for 3 weeks. :confused: It had an ivorine 4 on it and I wanted to know what you guys thought was the best option as far as ferrules go. Thanks ahead of time.

Also, anyone know why a ferrule would crack 3 weeks into shooting with it. I'd like to think that I'm not a banger and I never break with the cue. Temperature maybe????
Click to expand...
I have been playin,with a shaft with no ferrule,playing and breaking for then last,year and 4 mo. no problem...
 
Ivory. I've used ivory ferrules for more than 15 years now. But to be honest, I don't really care what the ferrule is made of other than ivory stays white. I can't stand a dirty ferrule.
MULLY
 
n10spool said:
I to was cracking iv4 also but I found out by backtracking to my way of installs it was a tennon issuie not made to proper size in length to fit the ferrule right. Since I slowed down in my way's I never had another ferrule crack most of them are installed on break cues only.

Craig
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TAP, TAP, TAP!

When an extremely hard material like IV4 cracks, it is most likely the tenon not matching up properly with the ID and/or depth of the ferrule.

Of course it could just be the material was faulty which is difficult to determine by just installing it.
If you like the IV4, I would go back to it with this new found knowledge in hand. It's one of the better ferrule materials around.

Gene
 
In the past 2 years I have had 3 cues made and the shafts without ferrules; pad only. I break with all of the cues and have used different tips on them all and have never (yet) experienced a failure ie, a cracked shaft which I was told would happen. The best way to find out what differences things make, for me, is to do them and evaluate. I have lots of cues with all types and lengths of ferrules and I cannot feel any noticeable difference in the hit. Scott Lee, instructor, played with one and said the hit was as good as any cue he had ever played with. I'm not recommending ferruless shafts just pointing out, IMO, their use and the different materials used in making them is overstated.
 
Doug said:
In the past 2 years I have had 3 cues made and the shafts without ferrules; pad only. I break with all of the cues and have used different tips on them all and have never (yet) experienced a failure ie, a cracked shaft which I was told would happen. The best way to find out what differences things make, for me, is to do them and evaluate. I have lots of cues with all types and lengths of ferrules and I cannot feel any noticeable difference in the hit. Scott Lee, instructor, played with one and said the hit was as good as any cue he had ever played with. I'm not recommending ferruless shafts just pointing out, IMO, their use and the different materials used in making them is overstated.
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Doug, do you a picture? I would like to see one
 
just about a said:
Doug, do you a picture? I would like to see one
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I think there's not a lot to see. The ferrule is missing. It's not a good picture, but see the second page of: http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/2002-11.pdf I've gone without a ferrule, off and on, since about 1980.

If you chalk badly, you will wear down the wood faster than you would wear down a ferrule. Ever notice the blue rings beginners have around their ferrules? They are clueless about chalking. They need ferrules.
 
At the moment I have no picture but will post when I take one. As Mr. Jewett said there isn't much to see. I will add that I made some of my shafts from old growth wood. Probably don't make a difference either except in my mind. The blue "rookie rings" Mr. Jewett mentions can be a hazard to going ferruless because wood will wear quicker than a ferrule from the abrasiveness of chalk but that isn't a problem either once you start applying chalk properly. In fact, IMO, the greatest value of a ferrule is to protect the shaft from chalk rings.
 
Doug said:
... As Mr. Jewett said there isn't much to see. ...
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Here is a clearer picture Sights.jpg
 
ridewiththewind said:
Tap, tap, tap!

I too, have yellow Micarta (non-Westinghouse) on my player...running them shorter (5/8") than most...and absolutely LOVE them! If I knew where to get more, I would have them installed on any and all of my future cues. I have also noticed no staining from the blue chalk either, which is always a bonus. :) Also, they tend to blend in with the shaftwood enough that while shooting, all I see is shaft and tip.

Lisa
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I too prefer the yellow Micarta but the Westinghouse micarta used on old Schon shafts. I had Darren Hill make me an extra shaft for the Hill cue that I have and put a yellow micarta ferrule on it. It looks completely different than the old stuff on my Schon shafts but still plays great.

Randy
 
just about a said:
Thanks for the pic. One more questions what made you try this?
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I had a loose ferrule on one of my shafts. I didn't realize that Balabushka threaded his ferrules, and the ferrule came off with the tenon inside. I said WTH, and put a tip right on the end of the shaft after squaring it up a little. That worked OK for a while, but eventually the tip got thin and I split the wood on the end of the shaft a little. Epoxy fixed the split, and a pad between the tip and the shaft prevents splitting.

Later, I ordered a shaft with minimum squirt -- this was about 1980 when squirt wasn't such a hot topic -- and the new shaft arrived with great steaming piles of squirt compared to the ferrule-less shaft. Since I can't switch back and forth very easily between high- and low-squirt, I said WTH again and chopped the ferrule off the new shaft and slapped on a tip. It then played just like the other.
 
bob, what is that black line on your shafts in the pics? is it for orienting the shaft when you play?
 
McChen said:
bob, what is that black line on your shafts in the pics? is it for orienting the shaft when you play?
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Yes. It goes up. Once you are in the habit, it's automatic. (See also the thread on "twirling" the stick for a related discussion.)
 
For me the feel of how a cue hits and the sound it makes are important feedback info to determine if I am hitting the cueball where I intend. From what I can determine the gold standard for cue makers when building a 2 piece cue is to duplicate as closely as possible the hit/feel of a one piece solid wood cue. So, IMO, the shaft gives the most immediate feedback and the less non wood material in the shaft the better the feedback.
 
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