What kind of glue?
- Thread starter digdug
- Start date
Gorilla glue has it place sometimes but when you want SOLID ... you want epoxy.
The glue line will exist (with any glue) only if there is a gap ... in other words if you haven't faces the parts squarely.
If the rings and segments are faced properly there wont be a glue line.
Glue and glue lines
here is the options I use:
Wood-to-wood clamped joint--Titebond 3
Wood-to-wood gap filled joint (such as a core) Gorilla glue
Wood-to-wood laminates--Titebond Laminate glue
Disimiliar materials such as pins, ferrules and phenolic to wood 30 minute epoxy.
Glue lines are a result of sloppy joinery.
here is the options I use:
Wood-to-wood clamped joint--Titebond 3
Wood-to-wood gap filled joint (such as a core) Gorilla glue
Wood-to-wood laminates--Titebond Laminate glue
Disimiliar materials such as pins, ferrules and phenolic to wood 30 minute epoxy.
Glue lines are a result of sloppy joinery.
Gorilla glue will come out through ring work or in your case a segmented handle. A thicker epoxy would be best.
Eric Wynne
Banned
Slow cure epoxy ...
Glue can definitely leave a line no matter what joinery is used, proper or not. Some woods or glues the line may not be as obvious but if there is glue in the joint then there is a line. If you don't believe it, just put some black dye in your glue before joining light colored woods. Just why do many use white glue for ferrule installation? Glue on two ferrules, using epoxy on one and epoxy with white pigment in the other and then look at the difference. The thinner the glue and the longer the glue takes to dry will affect the depth it is absorbed.
Dick
Dick
Glue lines
I agree with Dick. The only way you can have no glue line is if you have no glue. Even with a "perfect" joint, when the glue penetrates the wood it can darken it. This is more pronounced in some woods than others. In addition, the wood combination/contrast can make all the difference. In the OP's case, it was stated that "All pieces are sandwiched with fiber rings.". Assuming that the fiber rings are black, you shouldn't have a problem.
As an example, here are two different cues I made with the same inlay. Trust me, the fit was on both was "perfect". On the Holly inlay into a dark piece of Rosewood, it looks great...and I didn't add pigment to the epoxy. On the Purpleheart into Bocote you can see where the epoxy "soaked" into the Purpleheart and left a noticable darkening around the edge of the inlay. With the contrast of the light colored Bocote, it is annoyingly noticable. If it had been put into a dark colored wood, you probably wouldn't be able to see it.
I was given a suggestion (on this forum) when I first posted pictures of this cue. I can't remember who posted it, but they said to only apply epoxy to the bottom of the inlay and pocket. I haven't had an occasion to try it yet, but it should work by holding the inlay in place without the epoxy darkening the edges. No glue...no glue line...it might work
I agree with Dick. The only way you can have no glue line is if you have no glue. Even with a "perfect" joint, when the glue penetrates the wood it can darken it. This is more pronounced in some woods than others. In addition, the wood combination/contrast can make all the difference. In the OP's case, it was stated that "All pieces are sandwiched with fiber rings.". Assuming that the fiber rings are black, you shouldn't have a problem.
As an example, here are two different cues I made with the same inlay. Trust me, the fit was on both was "perfect". On the Holly inlay into a dark piece of Rosewood, it looks great...and I didn't add pigment to the epoxy. On the Purpleheart into Bocote you can see where the epoxy "soaked" into the Purpleheart and left a noticable darkening around the edge of the inlay. With the contrast of the light colored Bocote, it is annoyingly noticable. If it had been put into a dark colored wood, you probably wouldn't be able to see it.
I was given a suggestion (on this forum) when I first posted pictures of this cue. I can't remember who posted it, but they said to only apply epoxy to the bottom of the inlay and pocket. I haven't had an occasion to try it yet, but it should work by holding the inlay in place without the epoxy darkening the edges. No glue...no glue line...it might work
Great post Bill and your photos show exactly what Dick was saying.
Inlays like that are one place I think Gorilla glue would be called for.
There is an amber colored one and now a clear one.
The amber might have blended in with the wood better.
Epoxy
A lot of guys swear by West System epoxy. I, personally, have never used it.
I use two different brands for structural joints. Devcon 2 Ton epoxy and Loctite Professional 60 minute epoxy. The Devcon comes in the convenient dual tube dispenser. It's great for accurately dispensing small amounts. The Loctite comes in two separte (larger) bottles and requires a little more care when dispensing to ensure the 1-to-1 ratio. I use the Loctite for jobs where a larger amount is needed (like assembling a butt sleeve with complex ringwork) because it's a little thinner than the Devcon and has a longer working time.
A lot of guys swear by West System epoxy. I, personally, have never used it.
I use two different brands for structural joints. Devcon 2 Ton epoxy and Loctite Professional 60 minute epoxy. The Devcon comes in the convenient dual tube dispenser. It's great for accurately dispensing small amounts. The Loctite comes in two separte (larger) bottles and requires a little more care when dispensing to ensure the 1-to-1 ratio. I use the Loctite for jobs where a larger amount is needed (like assembling a butt sleeve with complex ringwork) because it's a little thinner than the Devcon and has a longer working time.
Questions.
Thanks Willee!
I've heard about Gorilla glue, but I've never used it. Isn't it one of those glues that expands as it cures? I can see where that would be an advantage for something like gluing in a core, but I'm not sure what the resulting pressure would do in the case of an inlay. Could it actually push the inlay up out of the pocket?
Thanks Willee!
I've heard about Gorilla glue, but I've never used it. Isn't it one of those glues that expands as it cures? I can see where that would be an advantage for something like gluing in a core, but I'm not sure what the resulting pressure would do in the case of an inlay. Could it actually push the inlay up out of the pocket?
Yes ... it can push an inlay out it it is not fitted in its pocket very tightly.
A piece of wax paper over the inlay then some masking tape will hold it in place till the glue sets.