joints
stainless steel..........Pa. Powerbud
stainless steel..........Pa. Powerbud
What kind of joint do you like.{no drugs lol}
- Thread starter lacey6783
- Start date
F
Fred Agnir
Guest
lacey6783 said:
I'm not so interested in the joint as I am how the whole stick feels. I have some SS collared, piloted 5/16-14 joint that in a blind test, anyone could be fooled to think it was wood/wood.
I have a wood/wood joint that sounds so tinky, you'd swear it must have more metal.
My Gilbert has a properly executed 3/8-10 w/w.
It's all in the cuemaker and the efforts they've made to make their joint sound the way they do, and their cues balance to their liking. IMO, an SS joint that sounds like it was a wood/wood joint is harder to execute. Again, IMO, only a handful of cuemakers can do it.
So, my favorite joints are the Schuler and the Lambros Ultra. Both are piloted, and both could be considered wood/wood. Both could have either SS collars or not.
Fred
F
Fred Agnir
Guest
JoeyInCali said:
Or a metal threaded rod connecting the forearm and handle, I suppose.
Fred
I doubt if one can even tell it's there.drivermaker said:
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Phenolic wood to wood with 3/8-10 pin or SW pin. Not a big fan nor radial pin.A good piloted SS joint is also good.
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drivermaker
Banned
JoeyInCali said:
You might not know it's there if you have nothing to compare it to. But if you knew what that cue felt like without the mixture, I'll bet you would then know. It HAS to be different. EVERY action that you take causes a reaction.
I use lead and tungsten powder or lead and tungsten tape to alter the weight and balance of a golf club all the time. And at a certain point, it DOES create a difference in sound or feel. It will dampen or deaden it somewhat. It slightly muffles the sound.
I would have to think that the same thing occurs in a cue, especially if it's damn near dead center of the stick. I would think a certain amount of vibration and sound transmitted back to our stroking hand and ear would be slightly affected, especially if you were looking for something lively. Some guys don't like that to begin with...their preference being quieter or soft... so for them it could actually be better.
drivermaker
Banned
BiG_JoN said:"EVERY action that you take causes a reaction"
Yes... but there are always different ways to get around the "undesirable" reaction, if there is one.
Thanks,
Jon
But couldn't THAT action then cause another reaction? (and couldn't we keep saying that ad infinitum?)
Yes, we could keep saying that ad infinitum...drivermaker said:
But with the "action" i have in mind, the only reaction, would be to increase the weight at the joint (on the ivory jointed cue that you want to have the balance of a stainless steel jointed cue.)
Do "garage" club makers get up this early in the morning too?
drivermaker
Banned
BiG_JoN said:Yes, we could keep saying that ad infinitum...
But with the "action" i have in mind, the only reaction, would be to increase the weight at the joint (on the ivory jointed cue that you want to have the balance of a stainless steel jointed cue.)
Do "garage" club makers get up this early in the morning too?
They get up this early ONLY if all the cars are moved out of the garage. Have you moved YOUR cars out yet? (don't want that sawdust gettin' all over a nice shine or the interior)
BTW...what "action" did you have in mind to do that?
I think the joint material is not the essential thing in the hit. It's more about how the joint and the joint pin were constructed, some cues have empty cavities under the joint pin for instance. I think there was a thread here including some x-ray pics of different joints from different cuemakers. I would say for instance that ivory joint without any cavities give stiffer & firmer hit than a SS joint with cavities in the joint area. Go figure.
The best vibrations in my hand are given by a radial pin and my 3/8-10 Acme thread.
The best vibrations in my hand are given by a radial pin and my 3/8-10 Acme thread.
drivermaker said:They get up this early ONLY if all the cars are moved out of the garage. Have you moved YOUR cars out yet? (don't want that sawdust gettin' all over a nice shine or the interior)
BTW...what "action" did you have in mind to do that?
Where i do what little cue work i am doing right now... There are no cars...
But there are Knitting/sewing/bag sealing/embroidery equipment around
Not to mention 2.5 lathes, two milling machines (one vert/one horizontal by Hardinge
)And some other stuff.
Garage? Not for me
What 'action'?
You think i would tell some high and mighty club maker?
I might... if you can find my email address... i just might give a hint... It might work on Clubs too.
lacey6783 said:
3/8 10 is the best to me ..that is all i play with .but now my b/j q has a5/16 14 pint .brass insert so it will be better for the way i break...