What kind of tip is best for shooting, jumping and breaking all together ?

Breaking and playing...but also jumping???

Best answer is a LePro.

I second this. LePro was my tip of choice when I only used 1 cue for breaking/jumping/playing, and it did a decent job. A LePro with about 25% life left is still one of the best jump tips I've ever used. I may not have been able to get over a full ball at three inches distance like is possible with a phen or white diamond, but if I needed to draw the length of the table after pocketing the ball, I could do it with a LePro.

LePro's have a loooong break-in period, though. When they are new, they are too soft for breaking/jumping, IMO.

Aaron
 
I second this. LePro was my tip of choice when I only used 1 cue for breaking/jumping/playing, and it did a decent job. A LePro with about 25% life left is still one of the best jump tips I've ever used. I may not have been able to get over a full ball at three inches distance like is possible with a phen or white diamond, but if I needed to draw the length of the table after pocketing the ball, I could do it with a LePro.

LePro's have a loooong break-in period, though. When they are new, they are too soft for breaking/jumping, IMO.

Aaron

Breaking and playing...but also jumping???

Best answer is a LePro.

Am I in the minority when I say that I can't stand LePro tips?
 
I put a tip on, break it in for a few days, and proceed to break, masse, jump, play, whatever with it for at least a year, usually more like two. After that initial period, I don't tap, shape, scuff, in fact the only thing I do is put chalk on it.

Do I play that differently from everyone? Maybe I'm just crazy.

You are playing with a hard tip (I happen to use the same tip), but many around here, use softer tips. It is these tips and those players that are having a time comming to grips with the new anti-phenolic rules.

While I can break with my play cue, I prefer to break with my break cue which supports a harder tip (Talisman XH)

While I can do 18"-24" jumps with my play cue wand the hard tip (in my case a Talisman XX), to do those 1" and 1/2" jumps really does take a jump cue. Once you have a jump cue almost any tip harder than 85 on the durrometer is just fine.
 
That's like asking what motorcycle is best for touring, the drag strip and off-road.

Yes, exactly - every one of them will either compromise playing or jumping - any tip can be used for breaking.

The best tip I've found for all 3 is made by Juan Rios, madman1nonly. He has a very hard leather tip that can be played with, is a terrific break tip, and can be used to jump.

For playing, I like either the new Tiger Onyx - a medium firm layered boar hide tip that holds it's medium feel (without getting too hard) for a long time, or the handy and relliable Everest.

For breaking, I like the Samasara tip or the Madman leather hard break tip. The Samsara is harder but Madman is more controllable.

For jumping, I like the Bunjee phenolic tip the best. Control yet easy jumping ability without getting too much extra spin.

Chris
 
Am I in the minority when I say that I can't stand LePro tips?

Totally agree because no two are alike.

I used them when I was doing my own tips. It went like this, glue it on, too soft, cut it off. Glue it on, hard as a rock, cut it off. Glue it on, leaning tip of Pisa, cut it off. Glue it on, spongy mushroom, cut it off. I would keep maybe 1 in 5 and got sick of it.

Chris
 
Yes, exactly - every one of them will either compromise playing or jumping - any tip can be used for breaking.

The best tip I've found for all 3 is made by Juan Rios, madman1nonly. He has a very hard leather tip that can be played with, is a terrific break tip, and can be used to jump.

For playing, I like either the new Tiger Onyx - a medium firm layered boar hide tip that holds it's medium feel (without getting too hard) for a long time, or the handy and relliable Everest.

For breaking, I like the Samasara tip or the Madman leather hard break tip. The Samsara is harder but Madman is more controllable.

For jumping, I like the Bunjee phenolic tip the best. Control yet easy jumping ability without getting too much extra spin.

Chris

I'm really intrigued by Tiger's new Onyx tip. I've been using Everest tips for 3-4 years now, but I think the next time I'm due for a re-tip, I'm going to try an Onyx.

Chris, how does the hardness of an Onyx compare to the Everest?
 
For a versatile tip I like a Tiger Hard

Agree - The Tiger hard break tip has potential if somebody insists on one tip for playing and jumping. It's very similar to the Madman I recommended above, but the Madman is a little firmer for jumping. None of the leather tips are decent for jumping except the Samsara, and it's too hard for playing.

Chris
 
I'm really intrigued by Tiger's new Onyx tip. I've been using Everest tips for 3-4 years now, but I think the next time I'm due for a re-tip, I'm going to try an Onyx.

Chris, how does the hardness of an Onyx compare to the Everest?

I have only one shaft with the Onyx. It's pretty new but I've tested their older shafts with the Onyx that have been used for months now.

It's made the same exact way and from the same materials as the Sniper, boar hide, same layers, etc. The difference is they have a process that takes a month for the tip to cure (which is why it's so expensive). They are an ultra-premium tip and cost $25 just for the tip.

Most medium tips get harder over time and lose their soft face. This tip gets slightly firmer but for some reason, it keeps that medium grip. So, where after a couple of months a Sniper is rock hard, the Onyx keeps it's same feel pretty much - so far on the testers for months and months. So far they seem to be pretty durable too. I like the black look too.

You have to take this info with a grain of salt because they're a new product, but so far - damn good! I just hope they are consistently like this.

I helped Tiger develop their new Ultra X LD and ProX shafts and I'm going to do a review here this weekend. The Pro X is a "Z" competitor but it's solid wood and it has an Onyz tip. The ULTRA X LD is a 314 competitor and it's solid.

I'm having a few of my friends check them out now for feedack, and I plan to do a complete review this weekend. I am really pumped up about the new Tiger shafts but I want to get some diverse opinions from players who use similar products now to see what they think.

Chris
 
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I have only one shaft with the Onyx. It's pretty new but I've tested their older shafts with the Onyx that have been used for months now.

It's made the same exact way and from the same materials as the Sniper, boar hide, same layers, etc. The difference is they have a process that takes a month for the tip to cure (which is why it's so expensive). They are an ultra-premium tip and cost $25 just for the tip.

Most medium tips get harder over time and lose their soft face. This tip gets slightly firmer but for some reason, it keeps that medium grip. So, where after a couple of months a Sniper is rock hard, the Onyx keeps it's same feel pretty much - so far on the testers for months and months. So far they seem to be pretty durable too. I like the black look too.

You have to take this info with a grain of salt because they're a new product, but so far - damn good! I just hope they are consistently like this.

I helped Tiger develop their new Ultra X LD and ProX shafts and I'm going to do a review here this weekend. The Pro X is a "Z" competitor but it's solid wood and it has an Onyz tip. The ULTA X LD is a 314 competitor and it's solid.

I'm having a few of my friends check them out now for feedack, and I plan to do a complete review this weekend. I am really pumped up about the new Tiger shafts but I want to get some diverse opinions from players who use similar products now to see what they think.

Chris

You could send me one to test and compare to my OB-1 :grin:
 
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