Recently I posted about a McDermott Sledgehammer and got several answers about how well they were built. I finally went to buy it but test hit it first. I liked the way the phenolic tipped cue hit but didn't like the lack of control. So, I tried the leather tipped version and it felt too soft, definitely wouldn't work for jumping. I declined both but it got me wondering, what is it that makes one better than another. It seemed like the phenolic tip is the only thing separating the hit of the two. I really didn't want to buy a plain cue with a phenolic tip and rely on this as the only advantage. I want to buy a Jump/break to replace my current one and am willing to spend some money to get something that will last, but I don't really know what to get. I would prefer a harder leather tip like a Samsara or maybe a composite but beyond that, am not sure what to look for. There are a lot of custom cues on here that look nice but without trying them, how would I know about their performance?. I live in a more rural area where people just use older Meucci's or an occasional BK2 but nothing higher quality that I can really try out. Any thoughts or suggestions on this?????
What makes a good break or jump break cue?
- Thread starter lawful777
- Start date
I bought an action cue. The ring 07 I think. I used it until I picked up a used higher grade cue and now I use it to break with. Better than a house cue because the tip isn't beat to crap and I added some more weight to it. I figure since I break once in a game, I don't want to pour a lot of money into it. I'd rather upgrade my play cue or playing collection. It's kind of like a work truck to me; as long as it works, I don't care what it looks like or who's name is on it.
Also how often do you jump? The places I go to don't allow it on their tables.
Just my $0.02....
Also how often do you jump? The places I go to don't allow it on their tables.
Just my $0.02....
a few things i've picked up alng the way.
first, a phenolic tip isn't required to break or jump well. the samsara jump/break tip or other simillar tips buy other companies break and jump very well. the tip steve lomax uses on his jump cues aren't phenolic and you can't really find a person who doesn't list his jump cues amoung the best (i own one and wouldn't trade it for anything).
second the lighter the jump cue the more effective they seem to be. a number of cue makers (including the previously mentioned lomax) even make the handle of a jump cue in sections. removing the last segment cuts the weight and length when trying to execute very close jumps. the weight of a break cue seems to have two arguments. a little lighter gives you more speed on the swing giving more power. a heavier cue gives more mass again delivering more power. i use a heavy as hell playing cue (21.5 oz) and a slightly lighter break cue (21 oz). i have even broke with a 19 oz break cue and find i like that as well. i think it's all down to preference - same as with a playing cue.
lastly i have found that a stiff shaft will break and jump better. i prefer a very long pro taper with a tip diameter of abiout 12.5 to 13 mm on my shooting cue but much less taper and a full 13mm or more tip diameter on a break or jump cue.
these are just things i have noticed and decided i like along the way. your experiences and preferences may be much different and i am sure others on the forum will not feel the same as me or you.
first, a phenolic tip isn't required to break or jump well. the samsara jump/break tip or other simillar tips buy other companies break and jump very well. the tip steve lomax uses on his jump cues aren't phenolic and you can't really find a person who doesn't list his jump cues amoung the best (i own one and wouldn't trade it for anything).
second the lighter the jump cue the more effective they seem to be. a number of cue makers (including the previously mentioned lomax) even make the handle of a jump cue in sections. removing the last segment cuts the weight and length when trying to execute very close jumps. the weight of a break cue seems to have two arguments. a little lighter gives you more speed on the swing giving more power. a heavier cue gives more mass again delivering more power. i use a heavy as hell playing cue (21.5 oz) and a slightly lighter break cue (21 oz). i have even broke with a 19 oz break cue and find i like that as well. i think it's all down to preference - same as with a playing cue.
lastly i have found that a stiff shaft will break and jump better. i prefer a very long pro taper with a tip diameter of abiout 12.5 to 13 mm on my shooting cue but much less taper and a full 13mm or more tip diameter on a break or jump cue.
these are just things i have noticed and decided i like along the way. your experiences and preferences may be much different and i am sure others on the forum will not feel the same as me or you.
whatever you like in it for breaking.
Mine is a custom and I beak with a normal leather tip. Kamui hard. Essentially a playing tip. Mine doesnt beak down to a jump cue. I had a dedicated jump cue made from the same maker as well.
A good break cue is whatever you like for breaking.
Mine is a custom and I beak with a normal leather tip. Kamui hard. Essentially a playing tip. Mine doesnt beak down to a jump cue. I had a dedicated jump cue made from the same maker as well.
A good break cue is whatever you like for breaking.
There is no "big" advantage to any break cue , it's subtle at best.
The best reasons for using a break cue generally have little to do with the raw performance advantage. Find one that you like , feel comfortable using and is as well made as can be for a given price range.
Don't over think it.
The best reasons for using a break cue generally have little to do with the raw performance advantage. Find one that you like , feel comfortable using and is as well made as can be for a given price range.
Don't over think it.
ive got one of the original mike guylassy (sp) break/jump cues. It breaks great and i can control the cueball better than any other break stick ive ever used, but i can jump with it for crap. My jj jump/break....i can break decent and jump great...i think its mostly in the tip, the rest is the player (me) lol
You went to the company that bought my technology, if I was going to invest in a cue I would go to the place that developed the technology for 27 years, not the company that tries to reproduce it. I have my patented ferrule/tip that is only sold by me. No one else in the US uses my FT2 and it is a world apart from all the rest. Not only is my new material unbreakable but cannot damage the cue ball. Not only is the other phenolic built in a way that is subject to crack but my FT2 hold chalk absolutely guaranteed the best. My BTX taper is built for control and does both jumping and breaking very well. My handle comes rear weighted for power and the jump section is built light for the close jumps as well as long. I think McDermott builds a fine cue but if you are looking for the best jump break cue on the market my Anvil and custom break jumps cannot be surpassed. Here might be the best part of my cues, thew are perfectly straight and because of Shaft Freeze they stay that way and lets not forget the added benefit of stiff shafts without the deceleration that a conical taper can produce.