What makes a shaft low deflection?
- Thread starter Train1077
- Start date
I think it is a combination of all the things that you mentioned. Probably most important is the mass at the end of the shaft. Smaller, lighter ferrules generally deflect less than 1" ivory ferrules. Uniform stiffness also plays a role which is why you see so many radial/flat laminated shafts. The taper will also play a role in the stiffness, or lack thereof, in the shaft. Some low deflection makers core the shafts and fill with some type of lightweight product to reduce mass. I also think tall tips deflect more than short worn in tips. All this said I personally don't like aftermarket shafts and think solid, tight grained maple with a micarta or linen ferrule and a short tip deflect very little and feel much better. Hope this helps and if I'm wrong in any of my assumptions rest assured someone will straighten me out.
Todd
Todd
In general, the decrease in deflection is achieved by lowering the mass in the front end of the shaft. Lighter front end on the shaft "gives way" to the greater weight opposed to it (cue ball). Predator & OB shafts are hollowed out in the 1st x# of inches behind the tip/ferrule.
If you'll peruse the OB Cues and/or Predator sites, there's a lot of info.
As for re-tapering a shaft, and it's end effect...can of worms. Already belabored, but you might float that question in the Ask The Cuemaker area of the forum and see what else comes to the surface.
If you'll peruse the OB Cues and/or Predator sites, there's a lot of info.
As for re-tapering a shaft, and it's end effect...can of worms. Already belabored, but you might float that question in the Ask The Cuemaker area of the forum and see what else comes to the surface.
Squirt depends on how heavy the shaft is at the first few inches of its tip end, and retapering alone won't change that too much unless you're taking a 13mm shaft down to below 12mm and replacing the ferrule with a short lightweight one. But you would still have more squirt than a Z2, which also has a lightweight core at those first few inches.
You should read Dr. Dave on the subject rather than relying on quick answers (like mine above). He has done a lot of writing and experiments on squirt. See
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/pool/threads/squirt.html
turning down the shaft diameter would reduce deflection as that takes out weight from the tip end. also going with a lighter ferrule material and using a smaller ferrule. predator goes even further by hollowing out the first 6 inches. the laminations for radial consistency don't have much to do with deflection, that is just for consistent flex.
The paper "Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Cue Ball Squirt, But Were Afraid to Ask" gets into the details:
http://www.sfbilliards.com/shepard_squirt.pdf
The paper includes a discussion of "backhand English".
If you're looking for information about the physics and/or engineering aspects of pool, you might want to include the names of Bob Jewett or Dr. Dave Alciatore in a google search along with your other search terms.
http://www.sfbilliards.com/shepard_squirt.pdf
The paper includes a discussion of "backhand English".
If you're looking for information about the physics and/or engineering aspects of pool, you might want to include the names of Bob Jewett or Dr. Dave Alciatore in a google search along with your other search terms.
You can find answers to these and many other related questions (with lots of articles and video demos) here:
http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/squirt.html#endmass
http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cue.html#low_squirt
http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/cue.html#low_squirt
Regards,
Dave