What pin is this?
- Thread starter lenoxmjs
- Start date
pitbull1229
Registered
Looks like 5/16 14
never surrender
never surrender
Odd, looks like a straight walled Acme thread. Then again it looks a lot like the thread on a broom handle.
lenoxmjs,
I'm thinking it looks like an ACME 3/8-10 as well. Can you take another picture or two with a ruler right up next to the threads so we can at least count the tpi (threads per inch). Another picture with the ruler across the pin will tell us the size.
Cue looks like it's well-made - is there a logo on it? Then we might know who made it and that will help as well.
Gary
I'm thinking it looks like an ACME 3/8-10 as well. Can you take another picture or two with a ruler right up next to the threads so we can at least count the tpi (threads per inch). Another picture with the ruler across the pin will tell us the size.
Cue looks like it's well-made - is there a logo on it? Then we might know who made it and that will help as well.
Gary
I've seen older Sledgehammer with import radial pins.
They were not acme.
Problem with the old acme and import radials are repair people
might not the kits for shaft work on them.
??? I dont get it?
Say you want a new shaft and the maker is dead or no longer making cues.
Your local guy can't make you shafts b/c he doesn't have the tap for that pin or he can live thread one exactly.
Say your shaft's threads got gooped up and a tap will be needed to clean that hole. Using a regular 3/8 10 might make that thread loose. What now?
What I was saying was the original shaft stripped out not the new one.
If the pin itself is stripping the thread ( I don't know how you can over-tighten them ), then it's a bad screw type.
It is an odd pin but having somthing different is kinda cool. I will say that this cue balances and hits quite nice. It screws together perfect too. Nice and smooth and tighenens up for the last turn or two before the faces mate. I like Dave's cues anyway. I was really surprised though when I unscrewed the JP and saw this pin . I had assumed that the cue would be his 5/16-14 piloted Ivory . Guess that's what i get for not asking. Glad it already has JP's . Bet they would be tough to find.
ACME threads are for moving loads such as 500lb milling tables and 100lb+ lathe carriages.
I don't see their application in a cue appropriate because they are unnecessary,
it's the wrong application of the thread and yes, that thread WILL strip-out the shafts threads.
The last Kikel that came my way for repair was because the pin had stripped-out the shaft.
The owner of the cue asked that I pull that bastard pin and install something more practical.
I gladly complied. That was over 10 yrs ago and I've heard no complaints since.
In machinery, the corresponding 'nut' is metal, brass, hardened cast iron or forged steel.
Even they wear quickly. In machinery it's called back-lash. In a cue it's called a disaster.
'Different' and 'looks cool' may be appealing to some until you need to have work done on the cue.
At that point, all I can tell you is good luck with that.
Opinion aside, isn't it strange that more cue-makers haven't gravitated towards using that pin?
KJ
I can see where it might be difficult to match a strange pin to a new shaft for example if you were at a tournament, if the original cuemaker were out of busisness, or this were your only cue and you played a lot and depended on the cue and had no backup. Since thats definately not the case here I'm ok with it. I have dozens of other cues I could play with and if there were ever a problem Daves a phone call and a FedEx box away.
Here's a link with pictures of the whole cue
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=316906
Here's a link with pictures of the whole cue
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=316906
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KJ... Thanks for the response
KJ,
First thanks for the response and I can certainly appreciate your position and understanding.
From a layman's perspective (I'm sure I won't use the correct terms) the overtightening of the joint which causes the threads in the shaft to strip out might certainly be more prevalent with this pin style (due to the thickness of the threads in the shaft), which would need a lower 'force' to cause than some other threads... but unless the pin moves vertically, that would be some serious force...
Additionally, 'b@stardized' tooling that the average repairman doesn't carry is certainly a problem to be considered. Heck, that's the reason my Chuck Starkey 1/2 - 8 Wooden pin Ferruless isn't my primary shooter... in a match or tourney if something happened, it wouldn't be easy to fix. So I can appreciate your comments/frustration.
Having said that... as an extra shooter... My new Guylassey is sweet and I'm certainly enjoying it.
Again, thanks for taking the time to respond.
-Joe
KJ,
First thanks for the response and I can certainly appreciate your position and understanding.
From a layman's perspective (I'm sure I won't use the correct terms) the overtightening of the joint which causes the threads in the shaft to strip out might certainly be more prevalent with this pin style (due to the thickness of the threads in the shaft), which would need a lower 'force' to cause than some other threads... but unless the pin moves vertically, that would be some serious force...
Additionally, 'b@stardized' tooling that the average repairman doesn't carry is certainly a problem to be considered. Heck, that's the reason my Chuck Starkey 1/2 - 8 Wooden pin Ferruless isn't my primary shooter... in a match or tourney if something happened, it wouldn't be easy to fix. So I can appreciate your comments/frustration.
Having said that... as an extra shooter... My new Guylassey is sweet and I'm certainly enjoying it.
Again, thanks for taking the time to respond.
-Joe