What should I look for in a cue?

N

nzjase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When I got a table I went out and bought a cue without doing any research. This is the current one I have... I think... it is definitely a Powerglide and I think this is the mode (or very similar):

http://www.powerglide-cues.com/pool-cues/force.asp

So questions:

1) What do I look for in a good cue
2) What are the top cues floating around
3) Why do some people go for custom cues? Is it just looks? Are they better quality? Or is the cue specifically fitted to you and your stroke i.e. balanced, length, weight etc (like custom golf clubs)?
4) Will custom cue makers ship to NZ? Are they allowed, native timbers being exported/imported and all that?

While I am still starting up in the game and learning the fundamentals I am happy with my current cue but once my game has improved some more I am going to start to look for my "next" cue so any advice would be invaluable.

Thanks all
 
Straightness and a good tip. The rest is window dressing. Give me a straight house cue with a good tip and I'm good to go.
 
If you are a serious player and know exactly what you want in a cue in terms of looks and playability (and are willing to pay for it) then I might look into ordering a custom cue.

If you are just starting out though, there are tons of great production cues that are well-made and priced reasonably (Players, McDermott, Viking, Pechauer, etc...)
If you want something a little more high-tech you can try some low-deflection cues (Mezz, Predator, etc...) which cost a little more and make certain shots easier once you learn to play with sidespin.

Basically just find a cue that looks good to you and fits your budget and learn to play with it. As you improve, you'll develop a feel for what kind of cue suits you and then you can try something else if you want.

About getting cues shipped to NZ, there should be no problem, unless you get a custom cue with ivory in it.

Good luck!
 
victorl said:
If you are a serious player and know exactly what you want in a cue in terms of looks and playability (and are willing to pay for it) then I might look into ordering a custom cue.

If you are just starting out though, there are tons of great production cues that are well-made and priced reasonably (Players, McDermott, Viking, Pechauer, etc...)
If you want something a little more high-tech you can try some low-deflection cues (Mezz, Predator, etc...) which cost a little more and make certain shots easier once you learn to play with sidespin.

Basically just find a cue that looks good to you and fits your budget and learn to play with it. As you improve, you'll develop a feel for what kind of cue suits you and then you can try something else if you want.

About getting cues shipped to NZ, there should be no problem, unless you get a custom cue with ivory in it.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I think my cue is fine for a starting out cue but am looking for something in a few months time so the above helps =)
 
TX Poolnut said:
Straightness and a good tip. The rest is window dressing. Give me a straight house cue with a good tip and I'm good to go.
Click to expand...

Just got curious. I'm interested in getting a cue of my own too. When you say straightness, do you mean the shaft should taper evenly all throughout? Am I correct in saying that when you roll the cue on the pool table, it should roll evenly and shouldn't create waves on any part of the cue.
 
nzjase said:
When I got a table I went out and bought a cue without doing any research. This is the current one I have... I think... it is definitely a Powerglide and I think this is the mode (or very similar):

http://www.powerglide-cues.com/pool-cues/force.asp

So questions:

1) What do I look for in a good cue
2) What are the top cues floating around
3) Why do some people go for custom cues? Is it just looks? Are they better quality? Or is the cue specifically fitted to you and your stroke i.e. balanced, length, weight etc (like custom golf clubs)?
4) Will custom cue makers ship to NZ? Are they allowed, native timbers being exported/imported and all that?

While I am still starting up in the game and learning the fundamentals I am happy with my current cue but once my game has improved some more I am going to start to look for my "next" cue so any advice would be invaluable.

Thanks all
Click to expand...

Are you playing Snooker or Pocket Billiards (Pool)? You have a unique situation, being in NZ, but to answer your question. Performance is the answer in my opinion. You want a cue that allows you to play your best. for me the most important 'parts' of a cue are: 1. the tip, I play better with a soft tip 2. the balance, I perfer it to be a little to the rear but not TOO much 3. the weight, I like a lighter cue, I have removed the butt weight from every cue I own, six(6). 4. the taper, I prefer the conical (European) to the pro taper. the conical allows the tip to be smaller say 11 to 12mm more like a Snooker 9 to 11mm without he shaft feeling whippy but a shorter Pro taper is also fairly good, 12 to 13mm.

All that being said, The cue for you could be a $30.00 model or a $3,000 one. Try before you buy. A $3,000 cue that you can not play well with is worth less than the $30.00 one that you play your best with. If you do not know what is best for you, experiment in the lowest price range & the when you know what you prefer or play the best with, invest in a good upper end stock or custom one that fits your parameters. Hope this helps a little.
 
TX Poolnut said:
Straightness and a good tip. The rest is window dressing. Give me a straight house cue with a good tip and I'm good to go.
Click to expand...

I agree. The good tip is the most important aspect of the cue. Then it is probably the weight. I play better with one on the lighter side 17 to 19 oz. not 19 to 21 oz. If it is crooked you spin it up or down. I played with one a few weeks ago after my opponent rolled it on the table and made fun of it to the whole bar. The tip rose of the tabel at least 1 1/4 inches.I broke down my cue & played with it. After I won, I rolled it on the table & showed him what I had just beat him with. He was a friend so it was done jokingly.

A good tip IS he most important part.
 
ENGLISH! said:
Are you playing Snooker or Pocket Billiards (Pool)? You have a unique situation, being in NZ, but to answer your question. Performance is the answer in my opinion. You want a cue that allows you to play your best. for me the most important 'parts' of a cue are: 1. the tip, I play better with a soft tip 2. the balance, I perfer it to be a little to the rear but not TOO much 3. the weight, I like a lighter cue, I have removed the butt weight from every cue I own, six(6). 4. the taper, I prefer the conical (European) to the pro taper. the conical allows the tip to be smaller say 11 to 12mm more like a Snooker 9 to 11mm without he shaft feeling whippy but a shorter Pro taper is also fairly good, 12 to 13mm.

All that being said, The cue for you could be a $30.00 model or a $3,000 one. Try before you buy. A $3,000 cue that you can not play well with is worth less than the $30.00 one that you play your best with. If you do not know what is best for you, experiment in the lowest price range & the when you know what you prefer or play the best with, invest in a good upper end stock or custom one that fits your parameters. Hope this helps a little.
Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the detailed reply and it makes a lot of sense.

FYI - I am playing pool (pocket billiards) but in NZ our cues, pockets etc are what would probably look like "snooker" style to you guys.

For example I am currently playing with the European style cue with a 10mm tip (might even be 9.5mm). I spoke with the guys at the pool store down the road and their logic was when using 2" balls the 10mm tip is all good whereas if I was on an American 9 ball style table with large balls then I would need a much larger tip 12mm etc.

I have a couple of 11mm tip cues (el cheapos) that I might have a hit with and see how the larger tip feels for me. Also I was told that if I can master playing with the smaller 9.5mm-10mm tip then in the long run it will help my cue ball control, true or false?

Last thing, what is a good tip? I assume I can cut off my current tip and glue on a new, better, tip? Is that how it works?
 
As with anything else, buy what you can afford. If you like all the bells and whistles, by all means get them.
A cue is ofttimes a statement of the players personality. That's probably why you see so many warped cues. :smile:
 
Tramp Steamer said:
As with anything else, buy what you can afford. If you like all the bells and whistles, by all means get them.
A cue is ofttimes a statement of the players personality. That's probably why you see so many warped cues. :smile:
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:smile::smile: Tramp,.... You make me laff ! (Love your posts)

With the obvious stated of a straight cue and a decent tip; and without writing a letter, go with what makes balls ! Seriously, (what i said may sound silly), but by that I mean experiment around,.... try different cues, different tips, etc. Find which one fits your playing style. Some play house cues and the hardest tips they can find. Others like a soft tip and a soft hit from their cue. An LD shaft vs. a regular hard maple shaft. It's all subjective. Players cues, cored vs. solid. ,.... how they "hit". Personally, I like some good solid feedback from my cue.

Think of it as buying a tire for your car,...... what exactly do you want from the tire. Comfort? Performance? Wear? A certain combination of all three ? Once you find what works for you , then you can fine-tune it. Good Luck !
 
nzjase said:
When I got a table I went out and bought a cue without doing any research. This is the current one I have... I think... it is definitely a Powerglide and I think this is the mode (or very similar):

http://www.powerglide-cues.com/pool-cues/force.asp

So questions:

1) What do I look for in a good cue
2) What are the top cues floating around
3) Why do some people go for custom cues? Is it just looks? Are they better quality? Or is the cue specifically fitted to you and your stroke i.e. balanced, length, weight etc (like custom golf clubs)?
4) Will custom cue makers ship to NZ? Are they allowed, native timbers being exported/imported and all that?

While I am still starting up in the game and learning the fundamentals I am happy with my current cue but once my game has improved some more I am going to start to look for my "next" cue so any advice would be invaluable.

Thanks all
Click to expand...
The powerglide is a nice looking cue. Here's what you do: Ask friends if you can hit a few with theirs, go to the billiard supply and try out some that you like the look of (for me I always like several, but one will stick out more than the others) get the one that feels the best. If you concern yourself with who it's made by or how much it costs you may pass by your soul mate. Later after you develop your game to at least the next level then go seek your "holy grail". For me, I own a Scruggs, a Southwest, an AE, and a couple from a local cuemaker around here, and my favorite is my Predator. The one that is my main player and feels the best to me is a simple production cue. I think you have to go with what works for you, maybe it's your Powerglide. You never know, what you might play best with and what might feel best is a slightly warped Chinese production snooker cue.
 
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nzjase said:
When I got a table I went out and bought a cue without doing any research. This is the current one I have... I think... it is definitely a Powerglide and I think this is the mode (or very similar):

http://www.powerglide-cues.com/pool-cues/force.asp

So questions:

1) What do I look for in a good cue
2) What are the top cues floating around
3) Why do some people go for custom cues? Is it just looks? Are they better quality? Or is the cue specifically fitted to you and your stroke i.e. balanced, length, weight etc (like custom golf clubs)?
4) Will custom cue makers ship to NZ? Are they allowed, native timbers being exported/imported and all that?

While I am still starting up in the game and learning the fundamentals I am happy with my current cue but once my game has improved some more I am going to start to look for my "next" cue so any advice would be invaluable.

Thanks all
Click to expand...

Things to keep in mind

Tip: Tips vary from soft to hard, though inexperienced pool players are best served with a medium to medium-soft tip.

Grip - there are so many options, it's hard to get into. The rough, somewhat rubberized ones are nice in the beginning, but tend to get oils and crap built up and get nasty looking and feeling.

Joint: You screw a two-piece cue together at the joint, which can be made of metal, wood, or plastic.

Feel the balance. Find the balance point on the cue by resting the stick in the pocket of your hand between the thumb and index finger. Find the point where the cue is close to balancing on your hand. that's where you should grip the cue with your back hand - that eliminates the cue pulling up or pushing down on your front hand that guides the cue to the ball.

Shaft material: The shaft of the cue — the end that hits the cue ball — can be made of fiberglass, graphite, or a wide array of woods. If you can get a quality maple shaft for a price that works, go for the natural feel.

Heavier isn't always better. While it helps to get the momentum going for those massive breaks, you might not want to use your cue for breaking. Use a house cue so you don't damage the tip, or risk warping the cue. Guys always seems to want the 21-22oz cue.
 
Thanks, very informative post

kaylaemarx said:
Things to keep in mind

Tip: Tips vary from soft to hard, though inexperienced pool players are best served with a medium to medium-soft tip.

Grip - there are so many options, it's hard to get into. The rough, somewhat rubberized ones are nice in the beginning, but tend to get oils and crap built up and get nasty looking and feeling.

Joint: You screw a two-piece cue together at the joint, which can be made of metal, wood, or plastic.

Feel the balance. Find the balance point on the cue by resting the stick in the pocket of your hand between the thumb and index finger. Find the point where the cue is close to balancing on your hand. that's where you should grip the cue with your back hand - that eliminates the cue pulling up or pushing down on your front hand that guides the cue to the ball.

Shaft material: The shaft of the cue — the end that hits the cue ball — can be made of fiberglass, graphite, or a wide array of woods. If you can get a quality maple shaft for a price that works, go for the natural feel.

Heavier isn't always better. While it helps to get the momentum going for those massive breaks, you might not want to use your cue for breaking. Use a house cue so you don't damage the tip, or risk warping the cue. Guys always seems to want the 21-22oz cue.
Click to expand...
 
I would look for the feel of the hit first. I want my cue to have a solid feel. I play with a very hard tip, but its not for everyone, you need to find a tip that plays well for you. The tip can make a big differance in the way a cue hits.
Now that you have figured out what feel and tip you like, now it comes down to how much eye candy you want other players to see, for that you just need to check your wallet.
I have always said you can buy a good hitting stick for 350 - 400 after that is eye appeal and what looks good to you. ---Smitty
 
Cue

While some of those 350-400 dollar cues may have a pretty good hit, I have often found that the balance in them is not the same as a more expensive cue. 700 has always been the minimum for me for getting a cue that plays good, has a good hit and a good balance too. (Other than some Sneaky Petes that can play more like a more expensive cue).
 
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