No. We can do much better than this for this serious question. An 8’ table is not (and has never been) 8’ x 4’.
Yea. It's only what everyone has been telling people since the first pool tables were built. But I'm sure you're much more correct.
No. We can do much better than this for this serious question. An 8’ table is not (and has never been) 8’ x 4’.
Yes, I am correct. And if you actually do measurements, you can report your findings here. Or not. When people try and fit their 8’ table in an 18’ x 14’ room and discover they’re shorter on the width versus the length, I’ll be sure to send them to this thread. Fair?Yea. It's only what everyone has been telling people since the first pool tables were built. But I'm sure you're much more correct.
I disagree. The market for 8 footers is probably the largest segment of home buyers. Unfortunately for those poor souls who buy new they will lose most of their "investment" should they ever need to divest themselves of the table. That represents a huge opportunity for this guy to buy extremely low if he just wants a furniture table to play on. As you and virtually everyone on this website already knows, with a few exceptions it's a buyer's market for used tables.Keep in mind....if you choose to get an 8' table, then later on change you mind to a 7', Eight footers have a very limited market of buyers.
Have you ever played a 9' in a 13'10" x 18" room? You either sell tables at a retailer or you pulled that off some retailer/manufacturer website. It has no basis in reality. My reply is probably going to be nicest reply you get.If you are using standard length cues (58"), required room sizes are as follows: 7' = 12'11X16'2, 8' = 13'4X17', 8.5' = 13'6X17'4, 9' = 13'10X18'.
14' width is not enough and 18'6" is a bare minimum IMHO. 14' width would give 1" of back stroke (58" cue) on the sides with CB up against the rail. With 18'6" in length there would be 3" at each end for back stroke. I could live with that if I had to but it certainly is a bare minimum. Everyone can decide their own minimums and ideals, but I'm living with a 3.5" draw on a CB frozen to the side rails. For me that's very close to minimum.Diamond recommends 14'x18'6" as a minimum for a 9' table. I would think 15'x20' would be ideal.
Hey Chili, that's my post from almost a year ago when I was in the market. Think I'll take a nostalgic look at it and review the advice I received.Below is a copy and paste from another thread - found here - https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/you-have-a-14x18-room-7-8-or-8-table.531603/
Given my room is 17' 8" and yours is 17' at best - you didn't say if that was inside or outside dimensions of building - I wouldn't even consider an 8' to be honest.
***** Paste from other thread *****
I have an 8' Gandy and the rails are 5 1/2" from tip to edge. The room is 212" (17' 8") and I play with a 58.5" long (including bumper) and I have about 3-4" of back swing when the CB is stuck on the rail, it's tight, but it's doable. If you do the match - the tip of the cushion is 62.25" away from the wall, my cue is 58.5", that leaves 3.75" of back swing (with a level cue). Going from an 8' to a 9' would take up 6" (playing surface is 12" longer in total) so even a 56" cue would leave you zero backswing. Out of luck, I bought this table when I did but that is one of the reasons I didn't search out a 9' table when I decided to really start practicing, it just wasn't worth it.
Doing the same on the side, my room is wide enough (15'?) but there's a bar shelf that sticks out to roughly 14' for half the length of the table, the other half of that side is open so it's moot. From the wall my table is 59 1/2" to edge of table and 65" to the tip of the cushion at 87" to center, with a 14' wide room you'd have to go to 84" to center. On my table that leaves 6.5" of back swing with my 58.5" cue. Losing 3" from going to 84" center and 3" for going to a 9' would leave about 1/2" for a back swing. That's a bit tight but nothing a 57 or 56" cue couldn't fix.
If a local deal for a nice 9' GC came up I'd buy it in a heartbeat, am I going to go spend a ton of money for a fancy new table, nope.
Hope this helps.
I’d have to disagree with that - among recreational home tables, 8 foot home tables are by far the most common size, and it’s not even close.Keep in mind....if you choose to get an 8' table, then later on change you mind to a 7', Eight footers have a very limited market of buyers.
Just contact any pool table retailer in a larger market and they’ll tell you - over 80% of their pool table sales to home owners / buyers are 8 foot tables. I’ve been selling pool tables for 26 years.bignick31985
NOW.....................I wanna see proof, that there are more 8's sold than 9's or 7's, why? It seem to be important.
Do people start these threads hoping that the laws of mathmatics have been updated in the last few years?
I might accept a single pole being less than 62 inches from the nose of the cushion but not an entire side of the table. I grip a 58 inch cue almost 4 inches from the butt end so I could live with an occasional 54 inch cue shot due to a pole. Anything shorter or anything more frequent would ruin the experience for me.
17 feet is 204 inches. Even 54 inch cue with 4 inch stroke is 58...times two is 116. 204 -116=88 inches = standard 8 foot table. So you can play two ends of the table restricted or get 7 footer.
I would definitely get the 7 foot or stretch the room to 18 feet plus for an 8 foot, 19 feet plus for a 9 footer.
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