What table size for room size

If you want to be able to compete well on 9-footers in tournaments, it is best to practice on a 9-footer. Here's a way to do that in a 17' room -- place the 9-footer off-center in the room such that you have no compromises on 3 sides of the table (side, side, foot). That could still leave enough room at the head of the table to break comfortably from the head string.

An off-center placement would allow you to practice all types of shots unimpeded with a full-length cue.

[And if you ever move to a house with more room for a table, you will already have the 9-footer.]
 
Some people simply don’t have the experience or knowledge to know, nor do they have the knowledge or experience to obtain that information so they come here and ask.

I’ve been on forums for almost 2 decades and if I had a penny for every time someone repeated a question I wouldn’t be sitting here, I would be on a boat sailing around the world.

People do the best they can with the tools they’re given 😉
I agree with your statement overall. Sometimes though it's a tough call. You can end up right on the line and it can be tough to choose. My width was like 14.3- 14.5 depending on where I was measuring and 29 feet in length. Obviously no issue length wise but I was tight on a 9 width wise. I was told by some it would be too tight. I ended up just right. If I am frozen a rail using my 59 inch cue I have to choke up slightly or use my standard 58. I dont feel cramped unless I am dead on a rail on the side but with a 58 I got some room to stroke it off rail. I am really glad I went with a 9ft'er.
 
8' tables are everywhere. So many people buy them. Every person I know that plays 'recreational' pool owns an 8'. Most players own a 9' or 7'. Any table is better than no table, TBH. 7' Diamonds are very nice even with league cut pockets.

Fwiw, I have a 20'x20' building out back that comes to 19' 8"ish inches square furred out. And you can't hit the wall cueing frozen to the rail unless you have an 8" extension on the cue.

But always, a barbox or 8' is better than having to face a packed pool room full of drunks, lol. The ability to play on any table at home is a blessing.
I'd love to know where all of these packed pool rooms full of drunks are that I often hear people complain about. I don't think they exist.
 
Imo,

You can switch sizes between 7, 8, and 9’ tables, and within 5 minutes of warming up, be completely fine.

The cabin size might be a lie. I would not trust a marketing spec unless I could see the cabin and measure the internal wall to wall distance.

As others have stated, pretty much every manufacturer’s specifications for room size is garbage. You must do the math yourself which is cushion to cushion distance, plus 2x stick length plus 2x stroking distance. The stroking distance can be from zero to 12”. That’s up to you.

Besides distance for the stick, you also need room for your stance. I’m 6’ 3” tall, and my back foot is 12” beyond the end of my stick. Your height and stance will determine where your back foot is.

Me personally, I’d go 7’ in that space.

Good luck.
 
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If you want to be able to compete well on 9-footers in tournaments, it is best to practice on a 9-footer. Here's a way to do that in a 17' room -- place the 9-footer off-center in the room such that you have no compromises on 3 sides of the table (side, side, foot). That could still leave enough room at the head of the table to break comfortably from the head string.

An off-center placement would allow you to practice all types of shots unimpeded with a full-length cue.

[And if you ever move to a house with more room for a table, you will already have the 9-footer.]
Hey, that's what I said. Lol
 

bignick31985


NOW.....................I wanna see proof, that there are more 8's sold than 9's or 7's, why? It seem to be important.
I have no certifiable proof, lol. I do electrical work for a living and nearly every home I've seen a table in during my working life has been an 8'. Unless they are a player. Then it's a 9'.

There have been 4 guys at work trying to sell tables...they are 8'. Another guy on my pool team has a table in storage. Yep, it's an 8'. A buddy of mine put one in his living room. You guessed it, 8' table.

I know that's a small sample size, but of the hundreds of homes I've been, I'd say less than 5 total had a 9' table. And each of those guys plays pool. They didn't buy it to "have a table".

And for myself, if I could not have a 9' I'd buy a 7'.

And packed full would be the two or three places they have around here. Many league nights, packed and drunk lol.
 
Some people simply don’t have the experience or knowledge to know, nor do they have the knowledge or experience to obtain that information so they come here and ask.

I’ve been on forums for almost 2 decades and if I had a penny for every time someone repeated a question I wouldn’t be sitting here, I would be on a boat sailing around the world.

People do the best they can with the tools they’re given 😉
There is a topic search function on here that is very simple to use. It would avoid the same basic questions getting repeated on here over and over. It would also provide that person instant answers / feedback as opposed to waiting for responses.
 
There is a topic search function on here that is very simple to use. It would avoid the same basic questions getting repeated on here over and over. It would also provide that person instant answers / feedback as opposed to waiting for responses.
Back in the RSB days we had a forum FAQ maintained by Bob Jewett: http://www.sfbilliards.com/Misc/faq.html Still a great resource.

Now Dr. Dave has upped the pool FAQ game: https://billiards.colostate.edu/faq/

pj
chgo
 
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Hey, that's what I said. Lol
Well, not exactly. You suggested rotating it, thereby creating compromised areas around all four corners (as pj showed). My suggestion was to leave all 4 sides of the table parallel to the four walls, just place one end of the table (the head, preferably) closer to a wall than the other end, leaving no stroking problems at all around 3 sides. Both ways would allow unimpeded practice with full-length cues. It would be interesting to actually play games with both arrangements and see which one is less annoying.
 
I'd love to know where all of these packed pool rooms full of drunks are that I often hear people complain about. I don't think they exist.
I played an open eight ball tournament at CR's Sports Bar near Minneapolis last Friday night - the place was packed, although I wouldn't say it was "full of drunks." There was a waiting list for tables, so I ended up going somewhere else. They have 20 tables, but on Friday nights, it doesn't look like it's enough. The place seemed pretty fun, and everybody I met there was nice (although I wasn't there long, since I got crushed, and it was races to two - LOL).
 
There is a topic search function on here that is very simple to use. It would avoid the same basic questions getting repeated on here over and over. It would also provide that person instant answers / feedback as opposed to waiting for responses.

Believe me, I get it. I was a moderator on the largest Jeep forum in the world and I can assure you, that place has more duplicated threads than you can imagine.

You simply get used to the fact that new people (and some OG's) fail to search prior to posting.

It just is the way it is and you can either accept it or let it bother you. After years of it bothering me I now accept it and try to nudge them in the right direction - especially on a site like this that lives in a somewhat fringe environment and could use a little positive attitude towards new members ;)

EDIT: The old Pirate 4x4 site (before it was sold), yeah, act like an idiot and you'd get Wenzel'd ;)
 
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I played an open eight ball tournament at CR's Sports Bar near Minneapolis last Friday night - the place was packed, although I wouldn't say it was "full of drunks." There was a waiting list for tables, so I ended up going somewhere else. They have 20 tables, but on Friday nights, it doesn't look like it's enough. The place seemed pretty fun, and everybody I met there was nice (although I wasn't there long, since I got crushed, and it was races to two - LOL).
I'd like to hear about your tourney experience. We can catch up next time at Shooters, I haven't been in awhile.

I bet you ended up at Stooges, which is not too far away.
 
Believe me, I get it. I was a moderator on the largest Jeep forum in the world and I can assure you, that place has more duplicated threads than you can imagine.

You simply get used to the fact that new people (and some OG's) fail to search prior to posting.

It just is the way it is and you can either accept it or let it bother you. After years of it bothering me I now accept it and try to nudge them in the right direction - especially on a site like this that lives in a somewhat fringe environment and could use a little positive attitude towards new members ;)

EDIT: The old Pirate 4x4 site (before it was sold), yeah, act like an idiot and you'd get Wenzel'd ;)
Started an e-commerce site back in 2001 and ran it for 18 years. Had an FAQ with every conceivable question answered in copious detail. Nevertheless, the same questions would get asked time and again as if the FAQ didn't exist. At some point one or one's staff learns to just answer the question and then direct them to the FAQ for any other questions they might have.
 
you will hate having a table that you cant access from all sides.

and you will grow to hate a table you cant shoot with a standard sized cue from all points on it.

if you want a full sized table live in a house that it fits, houses are all over so moving or if building make it work. after the hassle you will be happy with the decision.

generally you need to have minimum 5 feet around all points on a table. you can get by with subtracting the width of the rails from that but will suffer,
 
Started an e-commerce site back in 2001 and ran it for 18 years. Had an FAQ with every conceivable question answered in copious detail. Nevertheless, the same questions would get asked time and again as if the FAQ didn't exist. At some point one or one's staff learns to just answer the question and then direct them to the FAQ for any other questions they might have.

Yep, I was in customer service for years and the same questions get asked over and over and over, you get used to it and you learn to attempt to teach them. Some learn and some don't, you get used to it.
 
Hey,

Very soon I will start building a man cave. Because I do not have the space in my house for this I will buy a garden log cabin that will be 5.2m by 5.2m internal size (17ft x 17ft). This is the one I could find that matches my needs and the space I have available for it so there is no option on getting a bigger cabin.
With this in mind, I will have a pool room in there with an American pool table. I just checked the manufacturer website and they recommend a 17.8ft room in length to go with the 9ft version of the table I will purchase. The space I have is very close to the minimum requirement and I was thinking that I would buy the 9ft table and have a cheap 50inch cue to use for the shots where the cue ball is frozen to the short rails. But I am thinking maybe it would actually be better to go for the 8ft version? I intend to use the table not only for leisure play but also want to practice on it and hopefully participate in a local league and amateur tournaments when I get better at the game.
I am quite conflicted between the two options. I never actually seen an 8ft. Only played American pool on 7ft or 9ft. I will visit their showroom next week to see the 8ft, maybe it's not a big difference but do you think any training I will do on an 8ft will carry over OK to a 9ft or it will do more bad since I will be so used with a smaller table that it will mess up my game when playing on 9ft in tournaments.

What would you choose if you were in my place?

Thank you
Most local tournaments are played on 7 foot tables. Without reading all the posts my suggestion is to go with a 7 footer as this may be what you are competing on.
 
Thank you everybody for your input!
I've been very busy and haven't checked the thread in a few days so just went through all the answers now.
Let me address some topics that have been brought into discussions:
1. Why I asked the question when I can do the math myself? I wanted to know people's opinion on my specific case, maybe someone had gone through the same issue in the past, would people be bothered by using a shorter cue every once in a while or would rather just go for a smaller table instead? stuff of that nature. Thank you for not being judgemental and giving me a lesson in basic arithmetic!
2. Size of the garden cabin might not be what advertised as most manufacturers don't know what they are selling. I contacted the manufacturer and explained my intention and they assured me the internal dimensions are 520cm x 520cm (17.06ft)
3. Get the 7ft if you can't get the 9ft since there are tournaments for 7 or 9 but not 8. I live in London, UK not USA and here English pool is more popular and snooker. 7ft American tables are 100% non existent (I've been to 90% of the clubs in London that have American tables). All the American tables you can find in clubs are 9ft. So practicing on an 8ft would make more sense.
4. Buy a bigger house/build a bigger cabin. I simply cannot. London is an incredibly expensive city for house markets and the councils here are very strict when it comes to building regulations and what you can or cannot build in your garden or adjacent to your house. Also, I know USA houses have basements usually which are quite large but here there are no such things as basements in 99.99% of the houses. So I will have to live with the space I described.

I will wait for the cabin to arrive and build it and then I will measure it, maybe put some cardboard boxes to create the size of the 8ft table to get an idea how it fits. However I visited the showroom this past weekend and saw the 8 and 7ft tables. The owner there also let me hit a few balls and try out 2 shorter cues, one that was 130 cm (52 inch) and a 122cm (48 inch) both of which he will provide for free when they deliver the table (they were really basic cues something called Stinger, never heard of them, probably something they build). The 48inch one felt a little short but the 52inch one didn't bother me that much if I had to use if the ball is frozen to the rail every once in a while.
Also the cabin will have a pair of French doors right in the middle of the wall that will open outwardly and if I put the table exactly in front of the doors then the only time I have an issue is when the cue ball is frozen on the rail that is opposite the door (if that makes sense). I tried to create a small scheme to understand what I mean trying to keep the scale. Since these shots will be so rare and since I think I will benefit from training on the 8ft table rather than the 7 I will probably go with that one.
 

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Thank you everybody for your input!
I've been very busy and haven't checked the thread in a few days so just went through all the answers now.
Let me address some topics that have been brought into discussions:
1. Why I asked the question when I can do the math myself? I wanted to know people's opinion on my specific case, maybe someone had gone through the same issue in the past, would people be bothered by using a shorter cue every once in a while or would rather just go for a smaller table instead? stuff of that nature. Thank you for not being judgemental and giving me a lesson in basic arithmetic!

I used to have a small table at my parents house and some shots had to be played with a short cue. It might not come up for ages, but when it did you could guarantee it would be ridiculously annoying and almost certainly at a key point in the game! Short cues are really, really annoying and having put up with it for years I would never willingly go back, it is far more annoying than it seems!!!

2. Size of the garden cabin might not be what advertised as most manufacturers don't know what they are selling. I contacted the manufacturer and explained my intention and they assured me the internal dimensions are 520cm x 520cm (17.06ft)

You probably already know this, but make sure you have that in writing somewhere (also check there's no obstructions anywhere)!

3. Get the 7ft if you can't get the 9ft since there are tournaments for 7 or 9 but not 8. I live in London, UK not USA and here English pool is more popular and snooker. 7ft American tables are 100% non existent (I've been to 90% of the clubs in London that have American tables). All the American tables you can find in clubs are 9ft. So practicing on an 8ft would make more sense.

100%, I don't think I've ever seen a 7ft American table in the UK, as you say its either 9ft American or 7ft English (some places do have 8ft American tables, but not many, actually I even played on an 8ft English table once, but have never seen once since, although they were used I believe for the WC semi-final / final stages under EPA rules for a while, maybe they still are)!

4. Buy a bigger house/build a bigger cabin. I simply cannot. London is an incredibly expensive city for house markets and the councils here are very strict when it comes to building regulations and what you can or cannot build in your garden or adjacent to your house. Also, I know USA houses have basements usually which are quite large but here there are no such things as basements in 99.99% of the houses. So I will have to live with the space I described.

It sounds like you may have already ordered the cabin, so perhaps too late, but you have a bit of room with regards to Building Regulations, you should be able to go up to 30m2, albeit of course local councils can add on additional rules themselves. Is there perhaps any scope to go a fraction longer and narrower, you'd have a similar area, but 4.5m x 6m for example would allow you either plenty of room for an 8ft or even allow a 9ft with no (or at least not much) furniture?

I will wait for the cabin to arrive and build it and then I will measure it, maybe put some cardboard boxes to create the size of the 8ft table to get an idea how it fits. However I visited the showroom this past weekend and saw the 8 and 7ft tables. The owner there also let me hit a few balls and try out 2 shorter cues, one that was 130 cm (52 inch) and a 122cm (48 inch) both of which he will provide for free when they deliver the table (they were really basic cues something called Stinger, never heard of them, probably something they build). The 48inch one felt a little short but the 52inch one didn't bother me that much if I had to use if the ball is frozen to the rail every once in a while.

I marked out the space for an 8ft table in my cabin (which has internal measurements of 5.27m x 4.27m) and then stood around cueing to see how close I'd get in reality. As I mention above, you will find the short cues very annoying, very quickly, but depending on how tall you are you may of course not need a full size cue. I have a fairly standard 58" cue, but realistically I hold it so far down, I could probably use a 57" fine once I adjusted to it, doesn't seem like much but an extra inch can make all the difference....

Also the cabin will have a pair of French doors right in the middle of the wall that will open outwardly and if I put the table exactly in front of the doors then the only time I have an issue is when the cue ball is frozen on the rail that is opposite the door (if that makes sense). I tried to create a small scheme to understand what I mean trying to keep the scale. Since these shots will be so rare and since I think I will benefit from training on the 8ft table rather than the 7 I will probably go with that one.

I weighed this up myself and after 5 years still haven't bought anything! I was about to buy an 8ft table, but then started looking into how I could possibly extend and widen my existing cabin, then COVID got in the way and I haven't done anything about it! Lengthening seems plausible, but widening is likely to be impractical, so then I'd be in a situation where I would have enough space for a 9ft table length wise, but not width wise, which would be very annoying!!!

So in short, decide and buy a table, don't wait around, otherwise you'll have wasted years of potential playing time like me!
 
Thank you everybody for your input!
I've been very busy and haven't checked the thread in a few days so just went through all the answers now.
Let me address some topics that have been brought into discussions:
1. Why I asked the question when I can do the math myself? I wanted to know people's opinion on my specific case, maybe someone had gone through the same issue in the past, would people be bothered by using a shorter cue every once in a while or would rather just go for a smaller table instead? stuff of that nature. Thank you for not being judgemental and giving me a lesson in basic arithmetic!
2. Size of the garden cabin might not be what advertised as most manufacturers don't know what they are selling. I contacted the manufacturer and explained my intention and they assured me the internal dimensions are 520cm x 520cm (17.06ft)
3. Get the 7ft if you can't get the 9ft since there are tournaments for 7 or 9 but not 8. I live in London, UK not USA and here English pool is more popular and snooker. 7ft American tables are 100% non existent (I've been to 90% of the clubs in London that have American tables). All the American tables you can find in clubs are 9ft. So practicing on an 8ft would make more sense.
4. Buy a bigger house/build a bigger cabin. I simply cannot. London is an incredibly expensive city for house markets and the councils here are very strict when it comes to building regulations and what you can or cannot build in your garden or adjacent to your house. Also, I know USA houses have basements usually which are quite large but here there are no such things as basements in 99.99% of the houses. So I will have to live with the space I described.

I will wait for the cabin to arrive and build it and then I will measure it, maybe put some cardboard boxes to create the size of the 8ft table to get an idea how it fits. However I visited the showroom this past weekend and saw the 8 and 7ft tables. The owner there also let me hit a few balls and try out 2 shorter cues, one that was 130 cm (52 inch) and a 122cm (48 inch) both of which he will provide for free when they deliver the table (they were really basic cues something called Stinger, never heard of them, probably something they build). The 48inch one felt a little short but the 52inch one didn't bother me that much if I had to use if the ball is frozen to the rail every once in a while.
Also the cabin will have a pair of French doors right in the middle of the wall that will open outwardly and if I put the table exactly in front of the doors then the only time I have an issue is when the cue ball is frozen on the rail that is opposite the door (if that makes sense). I tried to create a small scheme to understand what I mean trying to keep the scale. Since these shots will be so rare and since I think I will benefit from training on the 8ft table rather than the 7 I will probably go with that one.

Given the other geographical parameters/limitations, I would consider the 8' table. As mentioned, my room is 17' 8" and I have enough room for a full backstroke when the CB is on the rail, if you were to shade the table a few inches to one side of the room you would only have to deal with it on one end and I bet the 52" cue wouldn't be an issue. Keep in mind, this is only when the CB is on the rail and I'm shooting straight down table so if there is any angle at all there is obviously more room. It will come up for sure, but not very often. The only thing I suggest is waiting to build the cabin and then measure the inside walls.

Just thinking out loud here but is there drywall? I'm assuming, given the use it will be insulated and finished, is it possible in your location to use a 3/8" drywall as opposed to a 1/2" drywall? Not sure what the local codes require, just something to think about.
 
... if you were to shade the table a few inches to one side of the room you would only have to deal with it on one end and I bet the 52" cue wouldn't be an issue. ...
Another solution is to institute a house (or cabin) rule: If the cue ball is near the bad cushion and a short cue would be required for the shot, the player may move the cue ball off the cushion by up to a hand span. (The player's hand must be able to touch both the nose of the cushion and the cue ball after repositioning.)

That will reduce the effectiveness of some safeties, but without that rule some safeties are much more effective than in a large room. I used to play frequently on a table where a post was 58 inches from a corner pocket. The "post hook" was a well-known strategy on that table.
 
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