What to do here?

Handsumm

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What would you guys do here?
I couldn't jack up and draw it back, and the three rail was blocked by the nine.

I ended up cinching the six, and just playing a long hard cut on the seven (which I missed).
 
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Ii would depend if the 7 is frozen to a rail or not.If it is i would play the 6 and go with left english on 7.I have no idea where cb would end but sometimes all you can do is hope:) if the 7 is not frozen i would try to play safe.thin cut on the 6 and cb back on the rail where the 7 is.Still a luck factor because of the double kiss or coliding with 9
 
belmicah said:
What would you guys do here?
I couldn't jack up and draw it back, and the three rail was blocked by the nine.

I ended up cinching the six, and just playing a long hard cut on the seven (which I missed).
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.
Purty good idea. I was thinking all offense at the time. I did not want this guy at the table (Jessie Allred).
 
I'm not good enough to take a ball 4 rails and leave it where I want it. Cut 6, cut 7, 9. Difficult but certainly do-able.
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.

I sure like the safety/defensive option here.

I think it was Grady Matthews on one of his tapes who said "Never shoot one hard shot to get another one."
 
poolnut said:
I'm not good enough to take a ball 4 rails and leave it where I want it. Cut 6, cut 7, 9. Difficult but certainly do-able.
I'll have to look at it on a real table, but I think I'm not good enough to run the 6 and 7 half the time. What do you plan to use on the cue ball when you make the 6? My thinking may be colored by the fact that I often play against 4.25-inch pockets.
 
Play defense to get control of the table back. I would spin my cueball off of the RH side of the six, trying to leave the cueball on the end rail between the 7&9. That should leave a hard shot on the six with even tougher position play to get back on the 7.
 
I don't like crossing the 6 in any direction, because the chance of a double kiss is very high with it being frozen on the rail, and plus having alot of distance with the cueball frozen to the rail makes it even more tough. I like Bob's idea of hitting it full and getting the 6ball safe, because you know that the cueball is gonna wind up on the opposite rail or close. One problem with this shot is if you mis-hit the 6 slightly to the left, the cueball will follow thru and hug the rail, and scratch in the corner.
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.

I like this idea as well. Normally I think if the shot is as hard as the safety, then I would rather go down swinging to win and not ducking. But, this is a fairly easy safety to execute and a winning shot.

Southpaw
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.

BJ,
Absolutely a great play. This is a common straight pool safety, first shown to me by Danny DiLiberto. Once you play with it for a little while it is fairly easy to get the cue ball to snuggle up to the head rail, while the 6-ball comes back to the foot rail.

Mark Wilson has, as part of his pool instruction, drills to help gauge object ball speed and destination (which is sometimes as important as where whitey ends up) - very helpful in situations like this.
 
Bob Jewett said:
If I wanted to win, I think I'd shoot full at the six taking it 4 rails to sit by the 7 and try to get the cue ball on the end rail and maybe behind the 9.


No doubt, this is the correct shot. The speed is actually quite easy to get. It's like the ball WANTS to die on the footrail.
 
Possibles

Offensive Option 1: Bank the 6 in the corner, come 2 rails with cue ball up by other side pocket for shot on the 7. Mostly likely cut 7 in, going 2 long rails for shape on the 9.

Offenseive Option 2: Bank the 6 to make the 9, or to just hit the 9 full, and leave cue ball on head end rail.

Defensive Option 1: Take 6 ball 3 rails, to leave it to the left of the 7 ball, and take cue ball towards head end rail. I would probably normally play this shot. You want the 7 to end up where it blocks any carom shot on the 9 ball.
 
Shoot the 6 two rails and leave it on the opposite side rail. The 9 ball would be inbetween whitey and the 6.

Either that or a two rail on the 6 leaving it on the center end rail by the 7. Shots like this are common in one pocket. In this case speed on the 6 is all you try to control. The 4 rail safe is a bit risky for me because whitey could follow into the corner. I'd never go for the run out here. You could end up shooting 3 tough shots in a row to win. The odds are way to high against you.

Rod
 
Bob Jewett said:
I'll have to look at it on a real table, but I think I'm not good enough to run the 6 and 7 half the time. What do you plan to use on the cue ball when you make the 6? My thinking may be colored by the fact that I often play against 4.25-inch pockets.

I just saw someone point out that the cue ball is frozen, and I hadn't taken that into consideration. I guess I don't really know. I'd worry about making the 6, and see where the cue ball ended up. If it comes off the rail far enough to cut the 7, I'd try that, if not I'd take a look at banking the 7 into the same pocket I made the 6 in to. Looks like a long shot either way for my playing ability.
 
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