What type of sand paper would be best for getting out a very light nick in a shaft?

[justinb386]

Oh, I should have read this before I did the shot glass with a drop of water trick. I wish I would have known that the shot glass was not even needed. Well, I hope I did not hurt my shaft too bad by rubbing out the ding with the edge of a shot glass. I will remember this method for next time I need a ding removed. Thanks.

Using a piece of glass is akin to whittling the wood out. You are 'removing' the ding by making a larger ding.

Steam should be a last resort. This is the most powerful weapon in the arsenal. I don't like using heated water to pull a ding.

Generally a drop of water set in the ding and allowed to dry will remove the ding. Repeat a few times, if it isn't gone, then try steam.

After doing this, I use 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Yes, it does remove a tiny bit of wood. Not enough to worry about. Finish with a burnishing material, either brown card stock or veggie tanned leather.

dld

 

[Dopc]

Dopc
Why would you press the neck of the glass bottle to the part of the shaft that is not dented.?
Why would you press the neck of a bottle the part of the shaft that is dented.?
Think about applying your method to the side of a car.
Pushing in or around any dent is only going to make the dent bigger proven fact.........
Just because they sale those plastic rods as say they remove the dent isn't really true.
the only thing you are doing is smoothing out the dent by making it bigger

The idea is to pull the dent, not make the dent bigger so it cannot be seen or felt so much.

MMike

Right or wrong, I was taught this by an old cue-smith that did work out of the poolhall I worked at many years ago. It does indeed work (something about the heat, friction and swelling without introducing moisture. I'm not a scientist just relaying what I was told), as long as the grain isn't cut (I also have a couple tricks for that as well that are rather unorthodox in nature I was taught).
I've done it too many times to count in my life and seen it done by others not related to the situation over the years. Heck, they even sell a tool for it retail. (said item http://www.seyberts.com/products/RX_Cue_Doctor_Dent_Buffer-2297-15.html Not meant to justify my point, just to show it's not an original idea).
Amazingly I found this on youtube, I have no idea who this is, but he shows the procedure as I was taught it. youtube demonstration link
Again I'm not saying it's right or wrong, but it does indeed work. Now if this is a 1k-5k$ collector cue, probably not the best route to go. If it's a less than $500 production cue, I wouldn't hesitate, in fact I just did it to my 20+ yr old Huebler from a dent I noticed a couple weeks ago and by far not the first time for this cue. To each his own, works for me. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just sharing my life experiences attempting to help another. He went another route anyways so the point is moot.

Dopc.

 

[Dopc]

We all know it isn't an original idea. Everybody has heard it.

Next time you do it, measure the shaft before and after with some semi-accurate calipers and let us know what you find out. I found out that it compresses the wood. Maybe you will find out something different...

dld

You're probably correct from a weights and measurements point, I won't argue that. But for us ball bangers that just want a decent smooth cue rather than a big crater felt during the stroke, this can be a cheap, quick & easy solution thats hard to foul-up.
Appreciate your feedback none the less and hope OP finds a suitable solution. As always, when in doubt or if the cue has any substantial value, consult a pro.

Dopc.

Edit: to add, it's always scary to tell someone to start introducing moisture to wood and then start sanding. Seen some pretty scary self repairs turn into nightmares that are sometimes irreversible.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

All decent methods mentioned. You have to pick which one you like.

I use a steam gun for large or tough dents but the boiling water with a Q Tip is a gooder.

If its not huge, a wet bandage works great without heat

For small hair line dents that you might get for smacking a metal table light that won't pop, I use a dental pick and
***** a couple or three small holes to help absorb the water. If the small ones absolutely won't pop, you may have to fill these in by
using your CA glue and applying it with a round tooth pick. Then, the glue will have to be sanded to match after it dries. The small ones that have to be filled can hardly be seen afterward.

One thing to remember is to not use heat, as in steam from your kettle if you have a laminated shaft.

If you should raise the dent above normal, which happens, 400 to 600 will do the trick.

Any sanded or open areas of wood should be sealed and waxed.

Why do all of my dents happen to be at my bridge area. Grrrrr!

Good luck and after you do this a couple of times, you will become a Master Dent Taker Outter.

 

[JB Cases]

I tried a drop of water on the ding, and rubbed the edge of a shot glass in to it, and the ding came right out (within a couple of seconds). This method worked really well. The wood was then very rough, so I sanded the shaft with a 1,000 grit, and then with some super fine Nicks Edge sanding paper, and now the nick is gone and the shaft feels very smooth. I am sure all of the other methods mentioned also work great, but I wanted to try this one 1st because it sounded the easiest, and I did not even have to boil any water. Thanks again.

It's basically heat and water. If you can generate enough friction it swells the wood. You don't need to press the glass hard on the shaft just a light touch and quick strokes. I prefer not to use the glass simply because I don't like to think about pressing too hard and making a flat spot.

 

[Pre-Flag Master]

Oh, I should have read this before I did the shot glass with a drop of water trick. I wish I would have known that the shot glass was not even needed. Well, I hope I did not hurt my shaft too bad by rubbing out the ding with the edge of a shot glass. I will remember this method for next time I need a ding removed. Thanks.

Glad to hear you took the less invasive approach first. For a very light ding, not much is needed. A dab of water applied only to the spot with the ding is the ticket. I'll use a 1/8 inch wad of paper towel. I like the band-aid idea, but only to tape it in place for a moment if needed. Once the wood has swelled to "lift" the ding, then you have to remove the "excess" wood. I'll wait for a day or so see if the wood will shrink back and allow the ding to reappear. Now all you have to do is remove the raised wood. I'll use the *side* of a shot glass, not the lip, to rub back and forth over the raised area only to compress the raised wood. Or very light and very short sanding with like 800 grit or higher. Then a burnish with the brown paper bag or emory cloth - I don't like leather for burnishing.

When I clean my shaft, I use Magic Erasure, using alcohol - just barely enough to make it work - as the moistening agent. Alcohol evaporates fast, reducing the amount of exposure of the wood to moisture. But here's the cool part. I have noticed that even that little bit of moisture exposure can remove some dings. By the time I have accumulated a ding or two, I figure it's about time to clean my shaft anyway, so I start with that and usually it takes care of the dings. After cleaning, a very light, very quick sanding with 800 grit or higher, then burnishing. I'm not one who likes wax. I find my shafts stay smooth without it. I think a good thorough burnish must be the key.

I think the methods using heat are maybe for extreme cases?

Fatz

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

dents

Right or wrong, I was taught this by an old cue-smith that did work out of the poolhall I worked at many years ago. It does indeed work (something about the heat, friction and swelling without introducing moisture. I'm not a scientist just relaying what I was told), as long as the grain isn't cut (I also have a couple tricks for that as well that are rather unorthodox in nature I was taught).
I've done it too many times to count in my life and seen it done by others not related to the situation over the years. Heck, they even sell a tool for it retail. (said item http://www.seyberts.com/products/RX_Cue_Doctor_Dent_Buffer-2297-15.html Not meant to justify my point, just to show it's not an original idea).
Amazingly I found this on youtube, I have no idea who this is, but he shows the procedure as I was taught it. youtube demonstration link
Again I'm not saying it's right or wrong, but it does indeed work. Now if this is a 1k-5k$ collector cue, probably not the best route to go. If it's a less than $500 production cue, I wouldn't hesitate, in fact I just did it to my 20+ yr old Huebler from a dent I noticed a couple weeks ago and by far not the first time for this cue. To each his own, works for me. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just sharing my life experiences attempting to help another. He went another route anyways so the point is moot.

Dopc.

Hey Dopc

Yes I have seen the tools , I have also seen cue repair tools destroy shafts and ferrules.
Just the same with all due respect , there is no sense in a argument over a dent in a shaft.
I believe your method smooth's out the dent. I rather raise the grain of the wood .

Anyway I have said how I fix a dent and you have explained your method too.
But I don't want have friction between you and me over how to repair a pool cue.
Everyone should feel free to give a honest helpful word of advise to our fellow azers.

Plus who wound want to live in a world where everyone agreed with each other.

Honestly because I have sanded to death at least 2 shafts in my life time.
That now I don't do anything to a shaft that will make the dia smaller.


But guess what :thumbup:
I still dis agree with your method.

Best regards
MMike

 

[Dopc]

Hey Dopc

Yes I have seen the tools , I have also seen cue repair tools destroy shafts and ferrules.
Just the same with all due respect , there is no sense in a argument over a dent in a shaft.
I believe your method smooth's out the dent. I rather raise the grain of the wood .

Anyway I have said how I fix a dent and you have explained your method too.
But I don't want have friction between you and me over how to repair a pool cue.
Everyone should feel free to give a honest helpful word of advise to our fellow azers.

Plus who wound want to live in a world where everyone agreed with each other.

Honestly because I have sanded to death at least 2 shafts in my life time.
That now I don't do anything to a shaft that will make the dia smaller.


But guess what :thumbup:
I still dis agree with your method.

Best regards
MMike

I'm feeling the love...... and the same in return, however I do NOT disagree with your method at all. In fact I will admit yours is the more correct way to go about it with only a single hesitation. I would trust you repairing my shaft just by how you speak, I get that you understand the material and the tools completely.
The unknown factor here is, we have no way of knowing what the OP knowledge and skill-set are. What you or I may call a light sanding, someone without that skill-set & knowledge would consider light sanding could be done with a 4" angle grinder with a metal grinding wheel. (bad attempt at humor, not meant to offend OP or anyone else)
In addition, absolutely no friction present at all, if anything I have more respect for your knowledge and ability after this interaction. I look forward to future interactions as well. I assure you, the honor has been all mine. :thumbup:

Dopc.

Edit: As far as tools being sold that do harm, I would be as bold to say that there are more tools that do harm than do any good. You hit the nail on the head with that statement.

Fuel for the fire, I still like and use a bottle for dents....:dance::happydance:

 

[8onthebreak]

I do not have an iron, so I will give this method a try. I tried rubbing the ding with a glass, but I did not use a drop of water (like maybe I should have). I did that for awhile, and it did not get the ding out. Thanks everyone for all of the replies. I have not read through all the replies yet (only up until this one).

I always use a drop of saliva on the dent, let it sit there for 30 sec, then rub beer bottle neck vigorously back and fourth until the clicking sound/feel goes away, then sand the area lightly to remove raised fibers after it dries completely, note: it will usually take two different times of doing this for a larger dent. the wood will shrink back a little after it dries, sinking back slightly into the dent depression.

The slightest dent/ding frustrates me beyond belief

 

[hang-the-9]

No sandpaper, try some steam or hot water. Alternatively you may wet a small piece of paper towel and place it over the nick, then place the tip of a soldering iron on top.

This should work, I have fixed up a few dings that way. A scratch may not work with this fix, but a dent should. I don't know if anyone has tried wood filler and then sanding it down a bit on the raised part to even it out. If you just try to sand the area with the issue, you'll end up with a divot there.

 

[West Point 1987]

I take a wash cloth, wet it, nuke it in the microwave for about a minute, then roll up and wrap around the shaft over the nick for 30 seconds to a minute. Voila! Gone. Reapply if you need to. Make sure to dry the shaft very well afterwards. I've gotten some very deep dings out that way. Steam or an iron works great, too, but you can overdo it if you're not careful.

 

[West Point 1987]

I always use a drop of saliva on the dent, let it sit there for 30 sec, then rub beer bottle neck vigorously back and fourth until the clicking sound/feel goes away, then sand the area lightly to remove raised fibers after it dries completely, note: it will usually take two different times of doing this for a larger dent. the wood will shrink back a little after it dries, sinking back slightly into the dent depression.

The slightest dent/ding frustrates me beyond belief

This is a great trick, too. A shot glass also works, a little easier to manipulate.

 

[Walkermine]

All decent methods mentioned. You have to pick which one you like.

I use a steam gun for large or tough dents but the boiling water with a Q Tip is a gooder.

If its not huge, a wet bandage works great without heat

For small hair line dents that you might get for smacking a metal table light that won't pop, I use a dental pick and
***** a couple or three small holes to help absorb the water. If the small ones absolutely won't pop, you may have to fill these in by
using your CA glue and applying it with a round tooth pick. Then, the glue will have to be sanded to match after it dries. The small ones that have to be filled can hardly be seen afterward.

If you should raise the dent above normal, which happens, 400 to 600 will do the trick.

Any sanded or open areas of wood should be sealed and waxed.

Why do all of my dents happen to be at my bridge area. Grrrrr!


...and this is where mine occur as well. For that reason, I carry my own hard rubber bridge that easily slips over a house cue. Have not had a problem since, and that was a few years ago. Jesus, when I first started playing, I was murder on shafts. I also have used glass but am aware that too much is a bad thing. It all depends on how deep the dent is and how often you abuse your shaft.