what type of spur driver you use
- Thread starter jov3n
- Start date
The one from Unique Products works very well. It's accurate enough that I have used it on my milling machine to do recut points.
It's not cheap, but in my opinion, it's well worth the money. I have one that I move around to three different machines as I need it. I've considered buying another, but so far I haven't needed it at two locations at the same time.
Contact billiardbum on here to buy one.
It's not cheap, but in my opinion, it's well worth the money. I have one that I move around to three different machines as I need it. I've considered buying another, but so far I haven't needed it at two locations at the same time.
Contact billiardbum on here to buy one.
Spur Drive
Tony Zinzola said:The one from Unique Products works very well. It's accurate enough that I have used it on my milling machine to do recut points.
It's not cheap, but in my opinion, it's well worth the money.
Couldn't AGREE more.I outfitted all my equipment with these drives.
Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.
QMAKER said:Tony Zinzola said:The one from Unique Products works very well. It's accurate enough that I have used it on my milling machine to do recut points.
It's not cheap, but in my opinion, it's well worth the money.
Couldn't AGREE more.
Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.
Could you guys provide a picture of this spur driver?
dave sutton
Banned
Likewise. I need a better one also
masonh said:
One of these is what I use but the price has really increased since I bought mine. I think I paid something like 39.95 for the middle size. Being as the center is spring loaded really helps. I put it between centers, turn the Morse taper off and but it into a holder so that it extends out and away from my chuck.
Dick
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=137-168&search=Machinery Accessories - Lathes
Look up sorby steb centers
drives
blud
I have made my own for years, what I do is, grind a 60 degree point on my drive rod [3/8] or [1/2], then mill six,[6], 60 degrees flat sides. It's easy to do, and only takes about 15 minutes to build. It keeps the turned product on center, and drives with little tail stock pressure..To much tail stock pressure will give you a not so true turn..jov3n said:
blud
Unique Spur Drives
Don't remember the cost but I will post pics tomorrow when I get home from the shop. They also sell a neat spring loaded tool for making the indents. I have
a drawer of spur drives I have bought trying to find one that really works great.
These do the job and then some.
Bob Flynn
masonh said:
Don't remember the cost but I will post pics tomorrow when I get home from the shop. They also sell a neat spring loaded tool for making the indents. I have
a drawer of spur drives I have bought trying to find one that really works great.
These do the job and then some.
Bob Flynn
I think the cost was around $100 or so with the tool for making the notches.
The spur alone is like $40 now.Tony Zinzola said:
WheatCues
Banned
jov3n said:
I build my own dogs using highspeed aluminum stock and SS machine screws tapped, threaded and glued into the driver...
I have a 4-leg pointed dog and a 2-leg bladed dog for different applications... both were built by my porper model-b and a vertical drill press...
It's a hell of alot cheaper than buying them and it only takes about an hour per side to build from raw stock and both of mine have lasted for 3yrs. to present, only costed pennies to make and is still going strong...
I know it looks crude, but it serves the purpose well and I had no idea I would be showcasing it or I would have removed all the scratches and polished it up to a high sheen, but I'm just too friggin' busy to do it and I don't think anyone really care about the looks of it on here anyways....
Just thought I'd share !!!
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
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WheatCues
Banned
RocketQ said:
To my understanding, it's a heavier gauge aluminum that can withstand friction and higher heat temperatures before it's structural integrety is compromised compared to the typical standard aluminum composition...
It does feel more durable and is a little harder to cut then standard aluminum stock from my direct experience with it !
I personally love it becasue it's perfect for what I use it for and a hell of alot easier than turning and machining steel stock and it hasn't warped on me yet !
- Eddie Wheat
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WheatCues said:
Interesting idea, Thanks for sharing.
Maybe he means aircraft aluminum?
But that term is often misapplied and used as hype by manufacturers trying to make their cheaper aluminum part be worth more than it really is. The only true "aircraft aluminum" to my knowledge is the 7000 series, more specifically 7075. It is as strong as some steel alloys, and yet light. BUT, it is often not carried by metal dealers, and must be special ordered. It machines beautifully by the way and is really used to make aircraft structures and parts. Aluminums start with the soft 1000 series alloys (weak and not good to machine) and goes by thousands up to the 7000 grade and up for very exotic stuff beyond my pocket book. I looked up this stuff on the net, hey I cannot even remember what I had for breakfast!
But that term is often misapplied and used as hype by manufacturers trying to make their cheaper aluminum part be worth more than it really is. The only true "aircraft aluminum" to my knowledge is the 7000 series, more specifically 7075. It is as strong as some steel alloys, and yet light. BUT, it is often not carried by metal dealers, and must be special ordered. It machines beautifully by the way and is really used to make aircraft structures and parts. Aluminums start with the soft 1000 series alloys (weak and not good to machine) and goes by thousands up to the 7000 grade and up for very exotic stuff beyond my pocket book. I looked up this stuff on the net, hey I cannot even remember what I had for breakfast!
Anyone use a reamer ground 60 degrees at the tip?