When do fit inlays?
- Thread starter GB Basher
- Start date
about 7-10 thousanths oversized.
I do my inlays at .020 over sized
I try to hit .010" before inlays.
If the finial joint diameter is to be .840" then I inlay when it is down to .850".
My flat bottom inlays are .125" thick but as they get wider they are shallower in the cue.
I cut the pockets about .110" leaving about .015" above the surface of the cue at the center of the inlay.
If the inlay is .5" wide (as at the base of a point) there is only about .040" or less of it down in the cue at its widest part.
Just leave enough so you can cut the cue and inlays even at the desired cue diameter.
If the finial joint diameter is to be .840" then I inlay when it is down to .850".
My flat bottom inlays are .125" thick but as they get wider they are shallower in the cue.
I cut the pockets about .110" leaving about .015" above the surface of the cue at the center of the inlay.
If the inlay is .5" wide (as at the base of a point) there is only about .040" or less of it down in the cue at its widest part.
Just leave enough so you can cut the cue and inlays even at the desired cue diameter.
I am in the minority here, but I do the inlays when the cue is .025" to .050" oversized. I also use inlay material that is normally .150" or thicker. If you inlay a cue heavily it can move on you a little. Also unless you seal the surface the glue can penetrate a few thousandths of an inch and create stains. So instead of sealing the surface or taking the chance of some minor movement not cutting out, I just start putting in the inlays when the cue is .025" to .050" oversized. There are exceptions to this rule. For instance when using any of the .080" thick premade mother of pearl dots and inlays, I will be a little smaller, around .020" over sized. There is no chance of that small of an inlay causing the cue to move, like there is with the larger floating points and such.
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I cut my inlays when I'm .070" oversized...JER
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM..... .150 Ivory slabs
It varies for me, but generally I put them in when around .010 oversized.
If you go down to very small tools, depth of cut becomes and issue, especially if your inlays are not narrow. The wider they get, the deeper they have to go, because of the radius of the cue. With a wide inlay, sometimes I'll only have .010 on the outer wall of a pocket, even cutting .14 deep. Some advanced programming is needed if you want to clean up corners and such with a cutter than only goes .060.
Obviously, materials will dictate as well.... some materials you just can't get very thick, so you have to give yourself every advantage you can get, which means cutting inlays with the cue very close to finished size, or even at finished size.
I've put lots of inlays into finished cues as well, then cut them down flush (just barely cut through the finish) and refinish.
Inlay with the cue too far oversized, and you could risk losing edges if the cue moves.... Depending on the inlays, of course.
If you go down to very small tools, depth of cut becomes and issue, especially if your inlays are not narrow. The wider they get, the deeper they have to go, because of the radius of the cue. With a wide inlay, sometimes I'll only have .010 on the outer wall of a pocket, even cutting .14 deep. Some advanced programming is needed if you want to clean up corners and such with a cutter than only goes .060.
Obviously, materials will dictate as well.... some materials you just can't get very thick, so you have to give yourself every advantage you can get, which means cutting inlays with the cue very close to finished size, or even at finished size.
I've put lots of inlays into finished cues as well, then cut them down flush (just barely cut through the finish) and refinish.
Inlay with the cue too far oversized, and you could risk losing edges if the cue moves.... Depending on the inlays, of course.
I usually go .175" on Ivory point slab material and cut it a full .150 into the cue. I want it in deep enough on the edges in ebony that it does not turn gray or translucent.