When The Balls Dont Rack Tight?

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DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what do you do? i've seen this happen at professional tournaments, even with the Sardo Rack. sometimes i think this could be an underlying factor as to why i dont have much luck with the break shot on my Gold Crown IV.

so, what do you do when the balls just seem to want to move? or when they just dont want to stay tight?
1) tap the balls?
2) put a new spot on?
3) moisten the spot?
4) accept a slightly loose rack?
5) keep trying even if it takes 5 minutes?
6) move the '1' ball ever so slightly to a different spot and hope it takes?

thoughts posters?
DCP
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
what do you do? i've seen this happen at professional tournaments, even with the Sardo Rack. sometimes i think this could be an underlying factor as to why i dont have much luck with the break shot on my Gold Crown IV.

so, what do you do when the balls just seem to want to move? or when they just dont want to stay tight?
1) tap the balls?
2) put a new spot on?
3) moisten the spot?
4) accept a slightly loose rack?
5) keep trying even if it takes 5 minutes?
6) move the '1' ball ever so slightly to a different spot and hope it takes?

thoughts posters?
DCP
Click to expand...

I've noticed alot of poolhalls where you can't freeze the balls together even when you push them with your fingers in the triangle. I heard that the balls slightly lose their shape or they shrink or something like that. So far I've noticed at two different poolhalls, nearly EVERY single table it is impossible to freeze the head ball to the two other balls in the second row, and I've tried all of the racks in both rooms, so I really think that it is because of the balls. That is really frustrating for me because you almost never get an at least decent rack, it's always a slug.

If you cannot get the balls to rack tightly no matter what, my suggestion to you would be to learn how to read racks, there are books out there that show diagrams of what racks to accept and where you should break from to A.make a ball on the break or B. spread the balls very well when normally you wouldn't be able to.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
so, what do you do when the balls just seem to want to move? or when they just dont want to stay tight?

2) put a new spot on?

thoughts posters?
DCP
Click to expand...


For starters, I don't know that a spot ever helped the problem. Outline your spot with a pen and just peel the damn thing off.
 
LastTwo said:
I've noticed alot of poolhalls where you can't freeze the balls together even when you push them with your fingers in the triangle. I heard that the balls slightly lose their shape or they shrink or something like that. So far I've noticed at two different poolhalls, nearly EVERY single table it is impossible to freeze the head ball to the two other balls in the second row, and I've tried all of the racks in both rooms, so I really think that it is because of the balls. That is really frustrating for me because you almost never get an at least decent rack, it's always a slug.

If you cannot get the balls to rack tightly no matter what, my suggestion to you would be to learn how to read racks, there are books out there that show diagrams of what racks to accept and where you should break from to A.make a ball on the break or B. spread the balls very well when normally you wouldn't be able to.
Click to expand...

I have always noticed that the balls are actually different sizes. I just switch the balls until they will freeze tight. If it eight-ball, you have more balls that you can switch (even the head ball). It helps to 'push' the balls forward in the rack, and look at the gaps, away from the spot. This takes the worn cloth or spot out of the equation. When you find the ball sequence that works, then rack on the spot. It also helps to remember which two you used upfront in 9-ball, it make the next rack easier to rack.

Words of wisdom from someone who racks more than the average player...heh. :D
 
Try this: Allow the head ball to fall into its little hole in the cloth. Then, place the triangle rack just ahead of the head ball (~1/64th of an inch) and square it to the table. Now, use your fingers to smoosh the other balls up to the head ball. Remove fingers. Did any balls move? If so, while holding the triangle rack, rotate the moving ball as it stays in place and this will get it to where it won't roll off. Don't hammer on balls, please. Remove your fingers, and when no balls move, remove the triangle rack and there ya go.

Most players---and I mean seasoned players even--insist on attempting to get the head ball to conform to the rack vs. getting the rack to comform to the head ball.

Let the head ball find its hole first, as I described above, and conform the rack around that.

Jeff Livingston (I've had waaaaayyyy too much racking opportunities. :) )
 
chefjeff said:
Most players---and I mean seasoned players even--insist on attempting to get the head ball to conform to the rack vs. getting the rack to comform to the head ball.

Let the head ball find its hole first, as I described above, and conform the rack around that.
Click to expand...

That's how I do it. Since I learned this trick, I have not had trouble. You also want to get a very stiff wooden triangle, for best results.


Tracy
 
I normally move the one ball slightly and let it settle, then position the rest around it. Sometimes changing balls around or rolling them can make the rack frozen. Other times, the rack itself could cause trouble, change it or rotate it.

Rick
 
Allot of the time this problem has been caused from someone that did not know how to rack and did tap the balls causing dimples where they should not be. Most of the time if you are having trouble racking, try removing the one ball and seeing exactly where you are trying to rack. Usually you are just not on the dimple in the spot. A descent rack is a big help though, Diamond makes a great rack and so does Mueller. I would like to see a rack that had a finish on it that the balls would not stick to when when it gets humid. Living in florida that seems to be the biggest problem down here. The balls stick to the rack and it drags them all over the table.
 
whitewolf said:
Tony Robles demonstrated to me how in a 9 ball rack if you ROTATE a ball, like the two balls next to the rear point, this will cause some other balls to not touch any more. This is a form of cheating and if you think that it is great that your opponent is "rotating balls", then you are a fool :D .

Otherwise it sounds like a good idea. But if you are in a rough poolhall, you may want to think twice before you start rotating the balls. You might find your ass kicked out the back door and trampled on :D

WW
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Thanks for the warning. And all I'm trying to do is give a good, tight rack. :rolleyes: With some pool players, no good deed goes unpunished. :D

The reason I rotate a ball to settle it is because I figure this method is less damaging to the cloth than hammering on it. Also, it may be an unperfect ball that is the problem, not the cloth, so rotating solves that. I always keep the rest of the rack tight as I rotate the problem ball, so separation of other balls is not a problem for me.

I always invite any breaker to examine my rack closely. And, with the way I rack, some players think I'm going to just leave the rack all loose as I'm positioning the triangle around the head ball. Then when I schmoos them together the breaker backs off. I've even heard spectators warn the breaker of my "loose" rack. Fact is, my racks are as good as anyones, better 'n most, I'd say.

Another tip, if rotating a ball doesn't do the job: I move the entire rack out of the way and then rub the cloth with my hand to smooth it out and even rub a little harder on a problem spot. This tends to level the playing field and makes the racking job easier.

Jeff Livingston
 
RichardCranium said:
You guys are way to experienced at racking....Just win and you won't ever have to rack........... :D :D
Click to expand...
In a perfect world, that would be great but in the alternate break world... :rolleyes:
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
what do you do? i've seen this happen at professional tournaments, even with the Sardo Rack. sometimes i think this could be an underlying factor as to why i dont have much luck with the break shot on my Gold Crown IV.

so, what do you do when the balls just seem to want to move? or when they just dont want to stay tight?
1) tap the balls?
2) put a new spot on?
3) moisten the spot?
4) accept a slightly loose rack?
5) keep trying even if it takes 5 minutes?
6) move the '1' ball ever so slightly to a different spot and hope it takes?

thoughts posters?
DCP
Click to expand...

Check Joe Tucker's book on racking secrets or the great breakshot which includes joe's book in one of the chapters if you havent already and just rack by using the book as a guidline. Its pretty tough to get all the balls frozen all the time and if you at least get the key balls frozen, your good to go and will get a decent break.

I know the book has helped me. Plus you can get some insight to how the wing ball goes in on the break as well as why the 9ball goes in the the bk.

Another thing I've found is to clean the balls, clean the table, rack a little high or a little low, Wooden rack 8ball rack(not a 9ball rack), Squeeze fingers inside rack, change speeds you pull rack forward away from balls to fast to slow, All else fails, rack at the other end of the table(i seen this done at a major nine ball tourney)
 
chefjeff said:
OK, I'll probably regret it in the morning, but I'll bite...

A fifty-year old woman?

Jeff Livingston
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Damn, the temptation is quite overwhelming.... I shall pass on this opportunity. Truth be told, my "comeback" was geared more as a joke on myself but then I'd leave the door open even more than Jeff did and I'm not really sure if I'm ready to deal with the mountain of stuff that would come my way because of it. :D :p :D :p
 
Say... that's a nice rack you have there.

Another reason the 1 ball may not set properly is due to chalk or crud in the cloth under the rack. Vaccuum your table! You can rub the cloth (beneath the racking area) vigorously to break up the debris and that should get them to set still. The other suggestion of rotating the balls is a good idea since balls are seldom true round. Try not to spend too much time fighting a rack since it is tiring and can effect your game, especially if it's a marathon session. Talk it over with your opponent and a ref if possible to come to some mutual agreement if they can't do any better. But at the same time don't settle.. it sucks when your opponent whacks in the 9 ball several times or close enough to combo it. I've seen it happen! If the balls sit funny even after you rotate the rack to all positions then get another rack.
 
Balls wear out. I've measured sets where they are over .030 out of round. They become egg-shaped if you will. If you play a lot of nine ball the one ball will be smaller than any ball in the set. Rotating balls with your fingers can help them freeze. Plus by rotating you wear a new spot, if you will, that it sits in.

All you can do is learn how to work the balls to obtain a decent rack. Now if you play 14-1 with those more worn 9 balls, getting a good tight rack is near impossible. I hate to play 14-1 where the set has been abused that way. Actually I have a new set of Aramith Pros that are only used for 14-1 and one pocket.

Rod
 
In my experience loose racks in a bar room is a way of life. For an 8 ball break I rarely strike the head ball. I favor a break where you strike the second row or where the balls for the second and third row meet. Kanov has this break diagramed in one of his books. A lot of racks in bars are flemsy and many wooden ones are broken. Over the years compensating for loose racking has ruined my break for ideal conditions.
 
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