When the shaft is too tight to remove...

fish2 said:
What is needed to be done to a cue when it takes 2 guys to disassemble a cue ?
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Get it apart then have a cue mechanic run the proper size tap through the insert and put a little wax on the joint threads.

Dick
 
Was it a Uniloc Quick release joint? Pics of the actual joint will help to assist you, otherwise we can only speculate and possibly give incorrect assumptions.
 
I've used Silicone grease on all of my joints. I use the more thicker, sticky, elastic type not the runny thin type - this gives a nice feel and holds up well.

Also you might want to screw the shaft on with a little less force?
Cheers!
 
3/8 x 16 SS pin into brass insert, yes, I know its a weird pin and yes I am pretty strong, my friends go to me to disassemble their cues, but this particular cue in really stuck.

Tried carnauba wax and light oil, no effect.

Will asked a cuemaker to retap the threads... thanks
 
People are talking about chasing threads but that doesn't sound like the problem here with a SS pin into a brass insert. My guess is it's getting stuck in the "closed" position and threads easily once broken free?

How about facing the shaft at a one or two degree angle toward the center ?

JC
 
Yes, its very loose once it its broken....

So rather than flat it should be convex or its currently in a concave shape which is causing the problem
 
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fish2 said:
Yes, its very loose once it its broken....

So rather than flat it should be convex or its currently in a concave shape which is causing the problem
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I was thinking it might help if the shaft was a tiny bit concave to minimize the contact area tension that you're fighting with but I'm not an expert. Just a degree or two should help without throwing the joint out of true or affecting the hit. There are experts here so I'll leave it to them to answer that.

JC
 
JC said:
I was thinking it might help if the shaft was a tiny bit concave to minimize the contact area tension that you're fighting with but I'm not an expert. Just a degree or two should help without throwing the joint out of true or affecting the hit. There are experts here so I'll leave it to them to answer that.

JC
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Friction is solely dependent on force, not affected by area.

Unless there is some kind of change of the geometry of the materials that are meeting on the faces (i.e. the wood fibers bending over and creating a micro-rachet effect), reducing the area won't help.

If there are multiple materials making contact, reducing the area of the higher friction material contact will help.

I have a feeling that there is some sort of binding of the screw in the insert, perhaps caused by insufficient tap depth.
 
Does it screw together fine, and only has the issue when you try to break it free to take apart and if so is it for at least a few turns before it turns loosely? It maybe a 'galling' issue between the brass insert and the SS pin....just a thought. A clear High res picture of the pin and insert would help
Dave
 
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Dave38 said:
Does it screw together fine, and only has the issue when you try to break it free to take apart and if so is it for at least a few turns before it turns loosely? It maybe a 'galling' issue between the brass insert and the SS pin....just a thought. A clear High res picture of the pin and insert would help
Dave
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My first impression as well was that it may be a galling issue. The SS pin into the brass insert is a likely set up where that can happen. The SS is much harder than the brass, so there may not be much evidence on the pin. Take a close look inside the insert and see if you can detect any mangled threads. If so, have the insert replaced.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
GBCues said:
My first impression as well was that it may be a galling issue. The SS pin into the brass insert is a likely set up where that can happen. The SS is much harder than the brass, so there may not be much evidence on the pin. Take a close look inside the insert and see if you can detect any mangled threads. If so, have the insert replaced.
My 2 cents,
Gary
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Galling is prevalent in similar metals of similar hardness.

Brass is used in bearing and bushing applications specifically because of it's resistance to galling.

If the issue were galling, the thread would likely be tough to remove, not just tough to break free.
 
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