Just curious, when you're buying a cue, what do you look out for?
Weight? Design? Shaft? Brand?
Weight? Design? Shaft? Brand?
When you're purchasing a cue, what do you look out for?
- Thread starter FaithHopeLove
- Start date
cues
Custom, production, import, ?
More info please and price range,
collector cue,playing cue?
MMike
Custom, production, import, ?
More info please and price range,
collector cue,playing cue?
MMike
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IMO......The Construction
#1 Cue Joint............personally speaking, the cue must have an ivory joint (flat faced or piloted only). No more all steel cue joints for my cue collection.....strictly ivory cue joints.
#2 Cue Weight........has to be under 19.0 ozs.........mid 18 ozs preferred.
#3 Shafts..................have to be original and straight (not have any of the taper roll bullshit explanations about the shafts being straight). Ferrules have to be at least 3/4" length and be "Ivory" not even Micarta would be acceptable. Diameter of the shafts must range between12.7 minimum and 13.1mm......nothing skinnier and nothing fatter. Tips are not really that important since I always install Kamui Black Onyx Tips (medium) on my cues.
#4 Points, Veneers & Inlays...................All of my cues have to have inlays and ivory is preferred but MOP is also suitable (Bushka designed cues). The points have to be ebony and sharp. The veneers have to be sharp pointed and handsome to contrast nicely with the BEM stain on the forearm.......oh yeah, no ebony forearms on my cues......strictly curly BEM stained nicely (a little darker). No CNC cuts allowed in the design.......every point has to be hand mitred to be sharp or else the cue doesn't join my collection. I sold Schon's 1st Balabushka Tribute because the points just didn't look right with its CNC cuts when I laid it side by side with my Runde Schon's sharp points. If the cue-maker doesn't invest the additional time and effort to complete the points sharp, then I won't invest any money in getting one of their cues. I am not going to buy a computer/router design and I want more hands on workmanship in the cues I acquire.
#5 Butt Sleeve..............has to have collars and be ebony wood.....ivory butt cap preferred but not essential. No bumperless cues......true Hoppe styles not allowed.......my cues go to the pool hall and I require a bumper on every cue I own..........butt sleeve inlays have to also coincide with the forearm's inlays.
#5 Wrap....................prefer Cortland linen but it's becoming very hard to find and actually costs more than expensive leather wraps........Irish linen is my second preference and leather is my least favorite cue wrap but it's still acceptable as long as its subtle looking.......none of that Ringtail Lizard or Rattlesnake crap that looks better in a pair of boots or wallet.
The underlying criterion is the cue-maker........I won't buy just anyone. When I buy a cue, I want to know, or at least believe, I can sell my cue for what I paid and hopefully even more. My Scruggs cue.....Mottey cue.....Runde Schon cue..... Palmer cue.( early 70's) ......all of these cues are worth more than I paid. But that goes without saying since cues from any "recognized" talented cue-maker typically do increase in value versus more customary production cues. And when the cue-maker ceases making cues, then the value of his cues has tremendous opportunity to increase like with my Tim Scruggs and Paul Mottey cues.
Richard Black is a famous cue-maker that I want to next add to my cue repertoire. He's one of the top 25 cue-makers of all time. Besides, at Richard's age, the sun is starting to set on his cue-making days. When he stops making cues, it will be a sad day too and so he's a cue-maker I have my sights set on acquiring very soon.
#1 Cue Joint............personally speaking, the cue must have an ivory joint (flat faced or piloted only). No more all steel cue joints for my cue collection.....strictly ivory cue joints.
#2 Cue Weight........has to be under 19.0 ozs.........mid 18 ozs preferred.
#3 Shafts..................have to be original and straight (not have any of the taper roll bullshit explanations about the shafts being straight). Ferrules have to be at least 3/4" length and be "Ivory" not even Micarta would be acceptable. Diameter of the shafts must range between12.7 minimum and 13.1mm......nothing skinnier and nothing fatter. Tips are not really that important since I always install Kamui Black Onyx Tips (medium) on my cues.
#4 Points, Veneers & Inlays...................All of my cues have to have inlays and ivory is preferred but MOP is also suitable (Bushka designed cues). The points have to be ebony and sharp. The veneers have to be sharp pointed and handsome to contrast nicely with the BEM stain on the forearm.......oh yeah, no ebony forearms on my cues......strictly curly BEM stained nicely (a little darker). No CNC cuts allowed in the design.......every point has to be hand mitred to be sharp or else the cue doesn't join my collection. I sold Schon's 1st Balabushka Tribute because the points just didn't look right with its CNC cuts when I laid it side by side with my Runde Schon's sharp points. If the cue-maker doesn't invest the additional time and effort to complete the points sharp, then I won't invest any money in getting one of their cues. I am not going to buy a computer/router design and I want more hands on workmanship in the cues I acquire.
#5 Butt Sleeve..............has to have collars and be ebony wood.....ivory butt cap preferred but not essential. No bumperless cues......true Hoppe styles not allowed.......my cues go to the pool hall and I require a bumper on every cue I own..........butt sleeve inlays have to also coincide with the forearm's inlays.
#5 Wrap....................prefer Cortland linen but it's becoming very hard to find and actually costs more than expensive leather wraps........Irish linen is my second preference and leather is my least favorite cue wrap but it's still acceptable as long as its subtle looking.......none of that Ringtail Lizard or Rattlesnake crap that looks better in a pair of boots or wallet.
The underlying criterion is the cue-maker........I won't buy just anyone. When I buy a cue, I want to know, or at least believe, I can sell my cue for what I paid and hopefully even more. My Scruggs cue.....Mottey cue.....Runde Schon cue..... Palmer cue.( early 70's) ......all of these cues are worth more than I paid. But that goes without saying since cues from any "recognized" talented cue-maker typically do increase in value versus more customary production cues. And when the cue-maker ceases making cues, then the value of his cues has tremendous opportunity to increase like with my Tim Scruggs and Paul Mottey cues.
Richard Black is a famous cue-maker that I want to next add to my cue repertoire. He's one of the top 25 cue-makers of all time. Besides, at Richard's age, the sun is starting to set on his cue-making days. When he stops making cues, it will be a sad day too and so he's a cue-maker I have my sights set on acquiring very soon.
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The things I look out for are weight, materials, joint, balance and wrap. People who are new to the game won't know what they prefer, it just comes with time and a whole lot of wasted money.
Firstly weight is my most important factor, not too heavy, not too light. A cue that's too heavy can mess up your stroke as you try to force it through the cue ball, and visa versa.
The materials used and joint both affect the balance and type of hit a cue has. Some prefer a flexible shaft and a soft hitting cue, others a stiff hard hitting cue. When I say soft or hard hitting, I mean in terms of the feeling you get when striking the cue ball.
Lastly the wrap is entirely personal and to most players it doesn't make a difference. But I have to play with either leather or no wrap.
I forgot to add the straightness of a cue. You'd be suprised how many cues aren't even close to being straight when rolled over a table. At the end of the day I would play with any cue if I could control spin and speed with it. I've got a friend that plays with a $20 cue. Its a piece if crap to everyone except him. His speed control is to a professional standard with it I'd say so it just shows you don't have to spend thousands on a cue to be a very good player.
Firstly weight is my most important factor, not too heavy, not too light. A cue that's too heavy can mess up your stroke as you try to force it through the cue ball, and visa versa.
The materials used and joint both affect the balance and type of hit a cue has. Some prefer a flexible shaft and a soft hitting cue, others a stiff hard hitting cue. When I say soft or hard hitting, I mean in terms of the feeling you get when striking the cue ball.
Lastly the wrap is entirely personal and to most players it doesn't make a difference. But I have to play with either leather or no wrap.
I forgot to add the straightness of a cue. You'd be suprised how many cues aren't even close to being straight when rolled over a table. At the end of the day I would play with any cue if I could control spin and speed with it. I've got a friend that plays with a $20 cue. Its a piece if crap to everyone except him. His speed control is to a professional standard with it I'd say so it just shows you don't have to spend thousands on a cue to be a very good player.
If it's not a custom cue then I'd look for a Schon, STL-5, or STL-11, with a Predator shaft. Cue weight, 19.25 ounces.
If you can't win with that combination, you can't win.
In addition, I look for a cue salesman who really has my best interests at heart. One who will go that extra mile in helping me choose the right color, wrap pattern, and ring design.
I think that's important.
If you can't win with that combination, you can't win.
In addition, I look for a cue salesman who really has my best interests at heart. One who will go that extra mile in helping me choose the right color, wrap pattern, and ring design.
I think that's important.
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a thick taper that i like when i hit it
after years around pool,i experimented by having a great local cuemaker make me some cues with different lengths and shaft tapers
i found that thicker tapers play best for me
dozens of people reported to me that they liked them also
after years around pool,i experimented by having a great local cuemaker make me some cues with different lengths and shaft tapers
i found that thicker tapers play best for me
dozens of people reported to me that they liked them also
I Never Sell My Custom Cues
I only buy Cues from Hall of Fame Cue Makers.
My cues are always cosmetically perfect, you get what you pay for.
I have returned cues when they have not been made to my specifications.
Bill Stroud was tough to deal with but my Ivory Jointed cue is still perfect.
Thinking about buying a Bobby Hunter or Judd Cue.
My only concern is how do you know it is going to hit great?
I am only going to get what they send.
Not every cue hits great, no matter who makes it.
It will be Purdy though, Git er Done Barney.........grin
I only buy Cues from Hall of Fame Cue Makers.
My cues are always cosmetically perfect, you get what you pay for.
I have returned cues when they have not been made to my specifications.
Bill Stroud was tough to deal with but my Ivory Jointed cue is still perfect.
Thinking about buying a Bobby Hunter or Judd Cue.
My only concern is how do you know it is going to hit great?
I am only going to get what they send.
Not every cue hits great, no matter who makes it.
It will be Purdy though, Git er Done Barney.........grin
I look out for the seller. The cue part is easy.
Here is what I did.
A few years back I was looking for another cue to play with.
There was a small Pool Hall in Gresham, Oregon that was call "BilliardsnBagels.
I went out there and talked to Jim (owner) about a new cue.
He asked me my price range and I said $200 to $2000. He brought me out about 25 cues and said shoot with them as long as you want.
One thing he said to me that was very interesting was to try and shoot with the cues and not look at the makers name.
I shot for 2 hours and finally narrowed it down to 2 cues that just felt right to me. One was priced at $300 and the other was around $450.
After I had made my selections I asked Jim about some of the cues that I did not pick.
He said it's all up to the individual.
Some were $1000 and up and there was also one that was $3500.
You really have to spend some time with the cue and just see if it is right for your style of play.
Hope this helps,
Don
A few years back I was looking for another cue to play with.
There was a small Pool Hall in Gresham, Oregon that was call "BilliardsnBagels.
I went out there and talked to Jim (owner) about a new cue.
He asked me my price range and I said $200 to $2000. He brought me out about 25 cues and said shoot with them as long as you want.
One thing he said to me that was very interesting was to try and shoot with the cues and not look at the makers name.
I shot for 2 hours and finally narrowed it down to 2 cues that just felt right to me. One was priced at $300 and the other was around $450.
After I had made my selections I asked Jim about some of the cues that I did not pick.
He said it's all up to the individual.
Some were $1000 and up and there was also one that was $3500.
You really have to spend some time with the cue and just see if it is right for your style of play.
Hope this helps,
Don
First thing is it must catch my eye. I have to like the way it looks. Then I hit a few with it. If I like it so far everything else is fine tuning. If I have a history with that brand (ie-Joss, Predator...) then that is all the better. I will never again order a custom cue, if I try a custom and it suites me and it is available I would consider purchasing that one, but as I cannot guarantee the performance of an untested custom, regardless of the reputation of the cuemaker, I wouldn't chance it unless I have a history with that cuemaker. In short, I just find the "production" cues suite me just fine. Love me some old Predator...
I look for a cue from a cue builder who makes very few cues, and has the longest waiting lines! I want the most rare cues so that I can sell them quickly if I need to. I like to keep my investment as close to liquid as possible.
...........in short...
Quality,
Rarity,
Exclusivity,
Construction materials,
Joint,
Balance,
Straightness,
Colors,
Resale.
Hit,
It MUST hit a ton. Do not settle for anything less. It's THAT important.