Where are you guys getting 'real' wood veneer?

Cue Guru

Cue Guru

Close, but no roll...
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By that I mean, Maple, Ebony, Walnut and Mahogany (among others if available) as opposed to dyed colored veneers?

I am interested in using naturally colored wood in addition to dyed veneers, like the Titlist for example.

Thanks in advance.

Also, for those doing 'paper' veneers between the wood ones, what exact paper are you using? I understand the technique, but are you just getting construction paper from the art store, or something more specialized for this purpose?
 
Cue Guru said:
By that I mean, Maple, Ebony, Walnut and Mahogany (among others if available) as opposed to dyed colored veneers?

I am interested in using naturally colored wood in addition to dyed veneers, like the Titlist for example.

Thanks in advance.

Also, for those doing 'paper' veneers between the wood ones, what exact paper are you using? I understand the technique, but are you just getting construction paper from the art store, or something more specialized for this purpose?
Click to expand...

Pm sent.

Dick
 
Back to the paper question. What material is being used between the wood veneers? Atlas has XXX black paper but it is 1/32,1/16,1/8, and 3/16 thick. The .031 is the thin veneer thickness. The cues I see with the thin black line between the colored veneers appears to be only .005 or so thick.
Is it a paper base phenolic that is only a few mils thick? Where do you get it?
 
That is exactly what I was wondering.

The black lines separating veneers gives a nice appearance. And I have some other ideas for it as well.

I certainly don't want to go gluing up some of my Niece's construction paper and have it fail...:rolleyes:

But, maybe that is all it is? The epoxy should penetrate the paper easily; however I wanted first-hand knowledge if I could get it...
 
Hey why don't you guy ask tony Zinzola the master of the paper veneer work or mike Webb
I think they are both great guys to work with and willing to help
I hope this helps
Chris
 
Thanks for the tip, Chris.

If they don't reply here, I'll send them a PM.:smile:
 
Some of what Tony Z has done lately really offers up ideas in using colored paper veneers to accentuate the conventional dyed veneers. I have a cue coming from him w/ black paper between the veneers. I've no regrets, but if I'd thought about the colored paper in the design phase - I might have utilized it to good effect.
It looks really nice.
 
I agree!

The paper looks great.

Just trying to lock-down exactly what paper is used... Is it special, or just plain paper?

Could I use paper from my printer between black veneer for example, or would that not work well?

I don't want to compromise quality/durability for aesthetics. I know Tony makes an exceptional cue, so I hope he can enlighten us on this.

If I don't see a reply soon, I guess I'll PM him.:smile:
 
Got it!

Thank you Chris (and everyone else who has replied via PM)

Happy holidays to everyone!:grin:
 
This thread is a good example of the shortcomings of cue makers responding to questions only by private messages.

The OP asked questions about paper veneers. This topic probably is of interest to lots of viewers. Apparently the OP received several private answers to his questions. This thread has had over 400 views, but apparently most of us won't be learning much from this thread about paper veneers.

(Edit: Sorry, but it's just frustrating for someone who enjoys learning all sorts of stuff about cues.)

(Edit #2: I just read the new "Sticky." Perhaps the PM's were just about sources for paper veneers rather than more general discussion of the types of "paper" used, the pros and cons, etc. Maybe that's why the responses were private.)
 
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I revived a thread about a year ago about paper veneers:

http://forums.azbilliards.com//showthread.php?t=75781&goto=newpost


I spoke with a few cuemakers and one suggested he uses card/paper stock from Hobby Lobby. A thickness of .008 to .010 is desired. He's used black and white stock, gluing the veneer packs with a slow-setting epoxy to allow the epoxy to soak through the paper, and not cause bleeding. I've not got around to trying it yet, so this info is all as it was passed on to me.
 
In general, it seems to be 'good quality' paper stock- from an art/hobby store, not Wal-Mart or the dollar store stuff...

It should certainly be tested, as the colors can bleed out of the papers, and you want a very slow setting epoxy for glue-up to get the epoxy to fully penetrate the paper.

It seems that faster setting/low penetration epoxy (or other glue) can bond the paper surface only and then the paper itself pulls apart in the middle (I think it was Tony Z. who mentioned that detail), which makes sense to me- I could see that happening.

I big THANK YOU to all who have posted and/or PM'd me with information. I feel much better about attempting paper in a veneer stack with your valued assistance!
 
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