which would you pick

spliced

spliced

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am having a cue built with a cored forearm and a steel piloted joint. The handle and core will be maple. I have three woods that I have narrowed down to use as the outer sleeve of the forearm. My choices are: Brazilian Rosewood, African Blackwood, or Macassar Ebony. As a cuemaker, which of these would you pick for this setup, and why? help me pick!

thanks!
 
Brazilian, Because I like the balance and final hit, The other two, even cored will play more stiff.
 
It doesn't make any difference as far as the hit, only the visual, in which case the decision reverts back to you. Which do you like the looks of better?
Once you made the decision to core, you lost the purity of 'hit' that each of these woods, by themselves, would provide.
IMO, coring Brazilian Rose is blasphemy.
 
KJ Cues said:
It doesn't make any difference as far as the hit, only the visual, in which case the decision reverts back to you. Which do you like the looks of better?
Once you made the decision to core, you lost the purity of 'hit' that each of these woods, by themselves, would provide.
IMO, coring Brazilian Rose is blasphemy.
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I agree, coring any of those woods is blasphemy.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Why?....everyone knows big pin, flat face is the only way to build these woods.
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I had to ask, When I was inexperienced, I tried different things and was not always happy with the results. Coring is great and I core everything but I know what works with what on my cues. I also try to answer based on what I've tried. ;)
 
That's why we are all different, Mike. We all prefer different things & see things a different way. I personally don't care that much for BR. It's just another rosewood, IMO. It's cool because it's expensive & rare & should be very old, but otherwise it's just another rosewood to me. I core it. To me, African blackwood is the nuts. I'll take it in my own cue any day over BR. And macassar ebony stinks like doggy poo when cutting so I don't use it much LOL
 
qbilder said:
That's why we are all different, Mike. We all prefer different things & see things a different way. I personally don't care that much for BR. It's just another rosewood, IMO. It's cool because it's expensive & rare & should be very old, but otherwise it's just another rosewood to me. I core it. To me, African blackwood is the nuts. I'll take it in my own cue any day over BR. And macassar ebony stinks like doggy poo when cutting so I don't use it much LOL
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Thanks Eric and I agree, except for this part of the O.P. question. To me, This means, a full stainless joint.
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I am having a cue built with a cored forearm and a steel piloted joint.
 
qbilder said:
That's why we are all different, Mike. We all prefer different things & see things a different way. I personally don't care that much for BR. It's just another rosewood, IMO. It's cool because it's expensive & rare & should be very old, but otherwise it's just another rosewood to me. I core it. To me, African blackwood is the nuts. I'll take it in my own cue any day over BR. And macassar ebony stinks like doggy poo when cutting so I don't use it much LOL
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I'll core any wood that has a major swirl. Some BR's look too "crotchy" to me.

Straight-grain BR's are God's gift to us.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I'll core any wood that has a major swirl. Some BR's look too "crotchy" to me.

Straight-grain BR's are God's gift to us.
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That's because it is crotchy...a lot of what is seen today is the reclaimed stumps that if they weren't burnt back in the day are being recycled and sold as the holy grail of woods today. It needs to be cored because of the run out generally associated with it. Not near as strong as the straighter grained stuff that comes from an old board.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
That's because it is crotchy...a lot of what is seen today is the reclaimed stumps that if they weren't burnt back in the day are being recycled and sold as the holy grail of woods today. It needs to be cored because of the run out generally associated with it. Not near as strong as the straighter grained stuff that comes from an old board.
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Just core them and use 15-ply plywoods. :P
I have a few straight grained yellowish boards.
Absolutely beautiful tonewood.
 
Michael Webb said:
Thanks Eric and I agree, except for this part of the O.P. question. To me, This means, a full stainless joint.
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I am having a cue built with a cored forearm and a steel piloted joint.
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Well, therein lies the rub. None of those woods should have a SS joint collar unless it's the thin-wall sleeve type and only for the visual.
These woods are heavy enough that they don't need additional forward weighting. But then, maybe that's the reason for wanting them cored.
I understand that we all do things differently and I think the industry is better-off for it.
I'll admit that I'm becoming more interested in this cue.
 
KJ Cues said:
Well, therein lies the rub. None of those woods should have a SS joint collar unless it's the thin-wall sleeve type and only for the visual.
These woods are heavy enough that they don't need additional forward weighting. But then, maybe that's the reason for wanting them cored.
I understand that we all do things differently and I think the industry is better-off for it.
I'll admit that I'm becoming more interested in this cue.
Click to expand...

Amen, Brother
 
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