who makes fancy custom sneaky's?

Solartje

Solartje

the Brunswick BUG bit me
Silver Member
hi,

im starting to get a sneaky fetish after seeing some sneaky's from
josey, frey, scryggs, diveney, stacey, tucker, richard harris, olivier, etc..

As most of these cuemakers let u chose from different models, they all are standard... wich of these or other cuemakers makes or would be interested in making a custom sneaky pete that would be a monster player.

i was thinking of this:
18.5oz, forward balanced
4 pt Olivewood (my ALL time favorit wood, and no sp i ever seen had this, hence why im asking for a custom) into ebony or maple
ebony colar and butt
3/8-10 joint
G10 pin
flat faced wood to wood
rings at A,B and E silver-olivewood-silver (to contrast with the ebony)
smooth leather wrap
2 old growth shafts, ivory ferule, moori III S tip

i know its a bit more fancy then most sp, and i really need the wrap for my MASIVELY sweating hands during tournaments. i'd love to show to olivewood but i really need a wrap.

any cuemakers making custom sneaky's and that hit as good as a tucker or a frey or a TS or josey

IMAG004a.JPG


:eek: got to love this wood. ebony and olive are the nicest contrasting wood combo there is :D (my 0.2c)
 
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I like the Pat Diveney call. I'd also add James white to the mix. He makes BEAUTIFUL sneakies and often throws in some fancy extras like butterflies, hoppe rings, etc.
 
i can't seem to find his website or any examples of his sneaky's.

does anyone has his email?
 
Solartje said:
hi,

im starting to get a sneaky fetish after seeing some sneaky's from
josey, frey, scryggs, diveney, stacey, tucker, richard harris, olivier, etc..

As most of these cuemakers let u chose from different models, they all are standard... wich of these or other cuemakers makes or would be interested in making a custom sneaky pete that would be a monster player.

i was thinking of this:
18.5oz, forward balanced
4 pt Olivewood (my ALL time favorit wood, and no sp i ever seen had this, hence why im asking for a custom) into ebony or maple
ebony colar and butt
3/8-10 joint
G10 pin
flat faced wood to wood
rings at A,B and E silver-olivewood-silver (to contrast with the ebony)
smooth leather wrap
2 old growth shafts, ivory ferule, moori III S tip

i know its a bit more fancy then most sp, and i really need the wrap for my MASIVELY sweating hands during tournaments. i'd love to show to olivewood but i really need a wrap.

any cuemakers making custom sneaky's and that hit as good as a tucker or a frey or a TS or josey

IMAG004a.JPG


:eek: got to love this wood. ebony and olive are the nicest contrasting wood combo there is :D (my 0.2c)
Click to expand...

I would not recommend olivewood for a full spliced cue. It does look nice as a secondary wood though.

http://www.murraytucker.com/sarah.htm

Maybe do a maple front with ebony points and a couple of olivewood butterflies with veneers.
 
hi tucker,

could u explain me why you wouldnt advice to use olivewood as fullsplice?

(could explain why i never found a olivewood sp :rolleyes: )
 
Solartje said:
hi tucker,

could u explain me why you wouldnt advice to use olivewood as fullsplice?

(could explain why i never found a olivewood sp :rolleyes: )
Click to expand...

Because it's light, soft and unstable. Not the kind of wood you need for the backbone of a cue.
 
Solly

Murray is right. Olive trees grow to full height in 10-15 years, where normal trees take 30-40 years, and dense trees take longer. I would recommend that you stick with Bacote, as it is one of the very best woods for a good solid hit.

Did you try that cue designing program I emailed you about?
 
Murray Tucker said:
Because it's light, soft and unstable. Not the kind of wood you need for the backbone of a cue.
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Has anyone ever cored a figured exotic wood for the purpose of stabilizing a spliced cue? I've seen woods cored due to instability of certain species, or weight issues. Could the olivewood be cored with something like Pau Ferro or laminated maple or Purpleheart to maintain stability and weight, and then spliced to make a pete? I know that Schmelke will splice wood together if you send them the square or round blanks.
 
i'll let u pro's discuss it, but im sure ive never seen a olivewood sp, thats why i was asking and maybe wanting one ^^

curious of by coring it would work. Cool conversation.



scott: yes i did, i had seen the post already before you mailed me, but i find it to be... to simple.

you cant chose your # of points, no hi lo, not enough wood to choose from,no multiple veneers, not enough ring options, no inlay options, ...
i still prefere my 3d studio renderings. :) ok its a bit more time consuming, but it looks a hell of alot better. but i guess its ok to start with.

a quick copy pasting work in paint does the same job.

ps the fancy bacote sp from frey is ordered. :D just need to do the downpayment, and it should be here in 3 weeks. im curious to see how the wrap will come out, and how the grains of the bacote will look. I especially posted to take his time choosing the orientation and woodchoice, as with the wrap not much of the wood will be left visible.

wohoooooooooooooooooooo my first custom cue on his way!!!

greats, signed: one HELL of a happy guy.

im turning 30 in 2weeks, im going to get maried, i got my 9ft diamond table and my first custom cue, new job that pays 3x as much as before, old friends that are recontating me,..... i can truly say, this is the best yeaar of my life and im enjoying it !!!
OW and i cought 220 pounds of salmon trouth (sp?) this weekend with a budy i havent seen in 10 years. :D now if only i could win the lottery and open a poolhall, then i think i can say: God , now we are even. :D
 
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Shawn Armstrong said:
Has anyone ever cored a figured exotic wood for the purpose of stabilizing a spliced cue? I've seen woods cored due to instability of certain species, or weight issues. Could the olivewood be cored with something like Pau Ferro or laminated maple or Purpleheart to maintain stability and weight, and then spliced to make a pete? I know that Schmelke will splice wood together if you send them the square or round blanks.
Click to expand...

I'll only core for consistency (hit) or weight control. I don't believe in coring for increased stability. If it's not good cue wood before it's cored then it's not good cue wood after it's cored.

Of course there are a lot more people who will disagree with me than agree with me on this issue.
 
The olivewood shown is a meditteranean kind. Not good for cues at all
African olivewood can be used but will take years to stabilize.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I'll only core for consistency (hit) or weight control. I don't believe in coring for increased stability. If it's not good cue wood before it's cored then it's not good cue wood after it's cored.

Of course there are a lot more people who will disagree with me than agree with me on this issue.
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why O why is olivewood so unstable :'(

imagine i would have a stock where i can choose from, would the densest, oldest, most stable blank of that wood work? or just impossible?.

Mmmmm what if:

as i'll be wanting a leather wrap anyway, how about not making it full splice, but having the buttpart made of ebony and then put olivewood around in between the buttcap and the wrap, and then in the forearm, put 4 points of olivewood inlayed? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

this a solution?
 
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Solartje said:
why O why is olivewood so unstable :'(

imagine i would have a stock where i can choose from, would the densest, oldest, most stable blank of that wood work? or just impossible?.

Mmmmm what if:

as i'll be wanting a leather wrap anyway, how about not making it full splice, but having the buttpart made of ebony and then put olivewood around in between the buttcap and the wrap, and then in the forearm, put 4 points of olivewood inlayed? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

this a solution?
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Short splice is a whole new animal.

http://www.murraytucker.com/a custom cue for steve e.htm

Rings, points and windows are olivewood.
 
Mmm true.... not even a fancy sp anymore, but this way its doable...

ok thanks alot for the information tucker !!!
 
Varney all the way..........If not Varney then Josey or Frey...........If not Josey or Frey then Varney :):):)​
 
Murray Tucker said:
I'll only core for consistency (hit) or weight control. I don't believe in coring for increased stability. If it's not good cue wood before it's cored then it's not good cue wood after it's cored.

Of course there are a lot more people who will disagree with me than agree with me on this issue.
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D.I.T.T.O and...ditto

Dale<repetative by nature>
 
Sneaky's that I've hit with and liked...

JoeyinCali makes a great one
Sugartree
Mr. Tucker makes a great full splice cue
Tim Scruggs
Bob Frey
and for the money its hard to beat Bob Dzuricky www.dzcues.com (only one other than Murray that has a web page. Well TS does, but he won't make you a sneaky)

Never have owned a tucker, but have hit with one. They are great cues, though impossible to get.

Joey, Eric at sugartree, and Bob D. are great to work with.
 
Solartje said:
Mmm true.... not even a fancy sp anymore, but this way its doable...

ok thanks alot for the information tucker !!!
Click to expand...

Back when I first became interested in selecting the type of wood I would like a cue made out of, I began to do extensive searches for exotic hardwoods. I lost all my links when my last computer crashed, but there used to be a wealth of info out there...species, subspecies, density, stability, and hardness ratings. Not surprising to find that the 'masters' had it right from the start...your best all around woods for cues are going to be your ebonies and rosewoods....and the rosewood family is pretty expansive.

I'll agree that olivewood is a very visually attractive wood...and works well when combined with a more structurally sound wood...in a short splice cue. I think that the closest you will get to a similarly colored/figured wood would be the bacote or perhaps even the kingwood....but I will defer to the experts on the kingwood. Tulipwood would work, if you could find a piece more on the yellow than peach side.

Just my thoughts. :)

Lisa
 
ridewiththewind said:
Back when I first became interested in selecting the type of wood I would like a cue made out of, I began to do extensive searches for exotic hardwoods. I lost all my links when my last computer crashed, but there used to be a wealth of info out there...species, subspecies, density, stability, and hardness ratings. Not surprising to find that the 'masters' had it right from the start...your best all around woods for cues are going to be your ebonies and rosewoods....and the rosewood family is pretty expansive.

I'll agree that olivewood is a very visually attractive wood...and works well when combined with a more structurally sound wood...in a short splice cue. I think that the closest you will get to a similarly colored/figured wood would be the bacote or perhaps even the kingwood....but I will defer to the experts on the kingwood. Tulipwood would work, if you could find a piece more on the yellow than peach side.

Just my thoughts. :)

Lisa
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Well i just ordered a fancy bacote bob frey, and really looking forward to it.
black phenolic and black leather wrap to contrast with the light coloured bacote is what im looking for. i really like contrasts.

if he made his sp's in olive i would have chosen that, but now at least i know why noone makes them in olivewood.

thx for all the responses. :)
maybe i should check out some local (eurpean hardwoords).. might find a hardwood that isn't often used , ship it to a cuemaker and make a sp out of it. im just sure there must be many other woods that arent used often as they are european.

from my experience in antique european cue's, i know they use woods that i haven't seen in cue's from the states.
 
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