Why leave off a ring?

Maniac

Maniac

2manyQ's
Silver Member
I notice a lot of custom cues (even one of my own) that have rings sometimes do not have rings at all five of the main positions, For instance, my LP custom has rings at the A, B, D, and E positions but not at the C position. Some I have see have them at four positions and not at the D positions. Why wouldn't a cuemaker just put the rings at all five positions? Or, at least in the C, D, and E positions if the shafts were left without rings.

Just curious.

Maniac
 
For me personally, I think any ring in the C position affects the hit of the cue.
I normally dont put a ring in that position because it gives the cue a firmer hit.
Some customers want a ring in that position and, after telling them my thoughts about the hit, if they still want the C ring, I install it.
Most of the time, with my cues, its what the customer wanted.

I would like to see a pic of the cue you have. Not sure if I know who you are.

Thanks
Lee
 
Lee,

I bought this cue that is shown in this thread: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=227612&highlight=Peppers

Now that you've explained why you left this ring off, it makes sense to me and I'm glad you did because this is one sweet-hitting cue. Pretty too. Nice work, and thanks for responding to my post!

I'm going to make this cue my main player as soon as I get over the fear of putting dings in it, lol.

Tony
 
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It has to do with a cuemaker's personal preference, a customer's personal preference, design, construction techniques, etc.
 
Maniac said:
I notice a lot of custom cues (even one of my own) that have rings sometimes do not have rings at all five of the main positions, For instance, my LP custom has rings at the A, B, D, and E positions but not at the C position. Some I have see have them at four positions and not at the D positions. Why wouldn't a cuemaker just put the rings at all five positions? Or, at least in the C, D, and E positions if the shafts were left without rings.

Just curious.

Maniac
Click to expand...
When you build a short splice cue with a wrap you are in most cases trying to create the illusion the cue is actually a full splice cue. In other words the points are actually part of the butt sleeve. Putting the rings there destroy the illusion.
 
macguy said:
When you build a short splice cue with a wrap you are in most cases trying to create the illusion the cue is actually a full splice cue. In other words the points are actually part of the butt sleeve. Putting the rings there destroy the illusion.
Click to expand...

You are correct. But the added ring if done in phenolic will help keep the front from splitting.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
You are correct. But the added ring if done in phenolic will help keep the front from splitting.
Click to expand...

I personally love the look of points on full splice cues (how they come together just above the wrap) but as yet have not perfected building techniques of a fullsplice. I do however not like the look of a ring at the A joint or position C as you are refering to it. As Arnot has alluded to though not having this ring can cause issues. Some cue makers myself included (only as a hobby mind you) correct this potential problem by adding a phenolic ring under the wrap.
 
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macguy said:
You are right but hat can be hidden under the front of the wrap.
Click to expand...

That was my point. If you want the full slice look or even if you dont want a ring at the A joint you can still build a strong cue by hiding the phenolic ring under the wrap. The pic posted above is of a forearm with a solid wring on a handle waiting for a wrap over it
 
macguy said:
You are right but hat can be hidden under the front of the wrap.
Click to expand...

Correct again :) Below is one where nothing is hidden:
 

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